03-20-2024, 04:57 PM | #45 | |
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No harness? Just high jacking the signal from somewhere else? |
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03-20-2024, 05:59 PM | #46 |
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Ah, sorry, by LC2i I meant the Technic adapter. Got that one with the LOC option included.
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03-23-2024, 08:43 PM | #47 | |
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03-23-2024, 11:01 PM | #49 |
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03-28-2024, 01:40 PM | #50 |
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Post picture of the install
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04-03-2024, 07:56 PM | #51 |
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For anyone with a JL Audio box, like the ones we have been circulating in this conversation...
Can you take a pic of your subs knobs so I can see how you have your level/gain, crossover, phase adjusted? I'm still waiting on my car but did test the sub out the other day. It's got tons of bass at medium volumes then it basically disappears as you turn it up. Wanted to see how others were running theirs. |
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04-25-2024, 11:50 AM | #52 |
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So I got completely geared up to do an install of a powered Audison APBX 10 AS2 subwoofer w/ the TechnicPnP harness, and realized that having the 5 zone climate package appears to significantly complicate the install. The rear HVAC unit appears to be completely obstructing the factory amplifier, which you need to tap into for the wiring harness.
Update: found this thread with instructions for removing the rear trim panel in order to access the amp: https://g07.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2011815
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04-26-2024, 11:13 AM | #53 | |
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While we are on this topic, here has was my experience with Technic PNP harness, the LOC they supplied, and the JL Audio loaded and powered boxes: -I started with a JL Audio 10" powered box (ACS110LG-TW1-UOB-K = 400W RMS). WAY TOO MUCH BASS. That was with the LOC cranked down to zero, the crossover at the lowest setting and the gain at the lowest setting. However, if I set the iDrive bass down to 0 or even up to like +2, then it sounded fine. This didnt work for me as I wanted the bass on B&W door speakers to fire hard since they are amazing so I returned it. -I swapped that for a JL Audio 8" powered box (ACP108LG-W3v3-UA = 250W RMS). Same problem, WAY TOO MUCH BASS. Same settings for the sub and LOC as above but now I could maybe go up to +4 bass in iDrive and it wouldn't be overkill. Mind you, this is with the sub flipped upside down in the spare tire compartment wrapped in Dynamat. -I was at my wits end and was ready to try one last sub that had way less power than both of those units (the Kicker 46HS10 with 180W RMS) but before I did that, had one last idea. -So I bought the JL Audio gain knob (in this case, it was the RBC-1 which is compatible with the 8" sub I referenced above). Low and behold, that gave me the ability to actually control how hard the sub was hitting from low to medium to high. Before, I felt like I was stuck at either medium/high or high only. -So now I have my iDrive bass maxed out so the B&W is doing what it's supposed to, the crossover set to about 80, and the gain on the knob set to about half and it's perfect! This was a lot of trial and error but the finished product was 1000% worth the time and money invested as I now have what I think is the best system I've ever heard in a vehicle. |
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04-26-2024, 04:52 PM | #54 |
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tkelley86 Very helpful, thank you!
Curious, how much did you pay for the install? And how much of a problem was it for them to access the factory amp? Trying to get a quote right now but the stereo shop has been slow getting back to me.
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04-27-2024, 06:48 AM | #55 |
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They had to take apart the rear drivers side section of the car to get to the harness. He charged me $500 parts and labor for everything and did a really nice job making everything look OEM. I got the sub and control knob for around $400 so it was $900 total which is a bargain in my mind for what I have now.
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05-08-2024, 08:44 PM | #56 |
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So my powered sub is finally installed. Here's a rundown on my setup and impressions:
My 2019 X7 has the Bowers and Wilkins top option. Overall a pretty decent system, but definitely lacking in the low end department. I originally planned on doing a powered sub install myself, but went to perform it and discovered that since my car has the rear climate controls, there's an HVAC unit that makes the factory amp wayyy less accessible in the rear. Install I originally was leaning in the direction of one of JL Audio's active subwoofers, but after quite a bit of research I opted for the following:
I ended up paying a stereo shop about $350 for the install as I didn't have the patience to dismantle the interior to get to the amp as per this thread. They also wired the sub's volume knob up to the cockpit, which is pretty handy. Interestingly, they didn't end up using the Technic PnP wiring harness. I don't think they read the instructions I sent them, and then wired it up to the RAM instead of the amp, at which point they just tapped the speaker wires directly. So if anyone wants to buy my kit on the cheap, drop me a DM! Impressions This thing HITS. Admittedly it over-powers the factory system pretty easily. They also make the Audison sub in an 8 inch version with less power, and I suspect that would be more than sufficient. I've got this thing probably turned on to only about 15%. Sounds great; very tight, clean, and zero rattles in the car thankfully. It's definitely a nice upgrade to the factory system, though there is a bit more "separation" than I'd like given that the sub is so far from the driver's seat. It'd be great to feel the bass a little closer, but either way, I'm a happy camper. I believe the Audison unit is pretty superior to the JL ones on most fronts, though you pay up for it a bit at $750 retail. But it's got some pretty nice signal processing built in to prevent clipping, and the high-level inputs are a plus too.
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05-09-2024, 04:56 AM | #57 |
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Looks great and fantastic feedback- thanks!
We have the 5K optional system on our Audi and I found I needed to insert a "real" sub into it as well. If you're into any level of bass, I've yet to find a factory OEM system that really offers a true subwoofer. |
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