Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Pilot
OK, I went back and reread the whole thread and I see you have the M3 arms in, so ignore my comments suggesting you install them.
What I don't understand is why your front camber isn't more pronounced. My car has just the M3 arms - no plates - and we probably could have gone to almost -1.0. Did the guy who did yours not knock out the alignment pins? I can't imagine why he would set it up so close to stock based on what you asked for, but then you seem to be wondering the same thing. In any case, there should be some limited range for further adjustment with just what you have in there.
Now, the point with the plates is that they seem to raise your ride height, so if you intend to reinstall them you need to come up with a plan to get back down to the desired height. As mentioned, you'll need to take that height out at the spring and/or the perch.
Decide what you want the final package to look like and find a shop that will play along. Give them concrete intentions: how much camber, ride height, etc. and see how close they can get.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes
That's what you get when you assume other people can read your mind.
Really though I would be pissed and try to pin it back on them. Talk to the owner and be like "I just put in M3 arms and tried to put in camber plates for more negative camber and them told you to give it a sporty alignment. What in the fuck did you think that meant?? Stock settings I could have achieved without any of the above parts?"
Obviously this is fantasy as you would have already done it if it was going to happen, but damn. That is a big misunderstanding that you shouldn't take all the heat for.
|
Here goes
The pins were not in when i dropped off the car. The plates should raise the car about 3/8". I understand that, and am OK with that. I started with about 14.5 between center of roundel and bottom of fender/wheel arch. I expected less than 15" when i was done. I had about 16.25/16.50 when i brought it to the shop. That was the beginning of this thread.
When i dropped off the car, the Dinan instructions were on the seat. The owner worked pit, and raced, I explained what i wanted, he also told me he knew what i wanted - a bit of extra negative camber so the car wont wear out the outside edge on the track, and no so much that i wear out the inside edge on the street. I also explained that to the tech. If i didn't say it, they would have had to read my mind. This is a shop that was recommended for a custom alignment. This wasn't a Firestone or brakes plus that doesn't deviate from what Hunter says.
The next day they called said things were not looking right (I then posted this to see if anyone had an easy answer), they pulled the strut, spun the plate, and it went a total of 2 deg when spun one notch (sounds about right -.75, spin it +.75 = 1.5). I gave them the old nuts and bolts so they could get a litmus if needed.
I got a call yesterday it was ready. I got there this morning right when they opened, paid $634 (may have $63 for something else) and left for work. I was an hour late because of my commute. I look at the floor and see my camber plated. WTF!
Oh, I had on the fender a piece of tape with a line that intersected the lip of the fender and 14.5" in marker. That line and the center of the roundel is where i started, and when i put the arms in, i jacked up the hub until the center of the hub and that line was 14.5". Now I am at the same place before I spent money on arms and plates - Stock. Just no negative camber. For $600 i can buy a few tires to wear out instead of getting the car aligned to save the tires.
It is a friggin heat wave here, I don't feel like pulling the struts out again to install the plates, to pay again for an alignment. $800 for an alignment plus pulling struts twice is a little excessive. I also have a family that (hard to believe) would like to spend time with me before school starts. I wold also like to take my daughter driving so she gets the clutch down before she gets her license in a few months.