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      02-10-2009, 11:29 PM   #10
mechanicalmagic
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Drives: 135i Cashmere Silver
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pleasanton, CA

iTrader: (6)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
Hi DJ,

The lower wishbones are a step into the right direction in reducing some of the understeer. You may also want to add the M spec tension rods as well. The tension rods will keep the caster in check and gives you a better camber curve.
Please advise, "caster in check", not sure what you refer to. I added Left=.3, Right=.4, degrees in caster and would not have a problem with a bit more.
In which direction do the Tension Rods change the Caster and Camber?

The camber is now at the "stock" limit according to the Hunter alignment machine. So, I'm not claiming any camber, since it's within the factory specs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
I have not autox in over 12-13 years now and don't know the rules anymore. Are you allowed a front anti-roll bar upgrade in stock class? Adding a front bar will help the car and my reduce some understeer. What you don't want to do is add a rear bar and lose rear end traction. If you can change the dampers, I would try a set of Koni's as well.
I have the factory Sport suspension, which gets me a couple of points toward the next class. Until I get some track time, I'm going to play here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
I am sure you already know the alignment tricks!
I know nothing. I may have known something 45 years ago, but today, I am overjoyed to DISCOVER a new car in my driveway.
Please PM me with the inside secrets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Canexican View Post
I'd have to disagree. If the car is notorious for pushing, then adding a front sway bar is only going to further induce understeer.
My last autox car was a Sunbeam Tiger. I KNOW PUSH, and thanks for using the old time version. Coming into a corner hard, cranking the wheel and NOTHING happens, yep that's push.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Canexican View Post
The 135i's front wheels and tires are too skinny, so to help cope with this (besides upgrading all your wheels and tires) would be to add a rear sway bar that will greatly subdue body-roll and initiate rotation.

- If you are serious about competing, upgrade the wheels and tires first.
- If you are just looking to improve the handling a bit, add a rear sway bar and buy better tires (Dunlop Direzza Star Specs would do you well in stock class).
The problem I see is staying within a REASONABLE class. Going to an 8" front wheel adds points, stiffer roll bars adds points. Very quickly, I'm in AA. And frankly, I'm 63 years old. My reflexes were. I'd rather not be at the bottom of the list at the end of the day, and I know my days of being at the top are long gone. Hell, I have considered running M/S tires, then I could compete in B, a long way from AA.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
I think the orginal poster said he is running in the stock class....I have not autox in years, but if I remember correctly you may modify, install or remove the front anti-roll bar only!

Rear anti-roll bar modifications aren't allowed!

Regarding wheel width, I don't think that is allowed in stock class either! That also means tire width can't be altered much using stock diameter and width wheels.
From what I read in the local chapter of BMW CCA Classifications, any mods are allowed. However, each one moves you toward the next class.

Thanks for the comments, sorry I was away for a while. Maybe after the BMW CCC in another week, I will understand the front end some a bit better.

Another thanks to HP Autowerks for providing the parts at the best price I could find. I DO plan on posting a DIY, buy have not found that round tuit.

Dave J.
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2009, tuned 135i, gone, but not forgotten.
Fear of dying exceeded thrill of speed.
(and coordination.)
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