[bimmer98]

Interested in some opinions on the M2C brake setup as pertains to me. I’m now in an LCI which has about 30,000 miles just purchased. The M2 is new to me, other than an M school, but I’ve had a long heritage of bimmers dating back to the early 90’s, including three 135i. So to my point, they all seem to have some brake fade at the track even with pagad pads. I haven’t had any miles in the seat yet, and figure it will be a bunch of miles before I determine what suspension I want. So the rotors and pads are gonna need replaced soon and I think that’s the time to upgrade. I don’t have a lot of big brake upgrade experience. Car isn’t a DD. Will see weekends and several HPDS each year. I’m not considering ceramic as the car will still see most miles on the road.

Lastly with novice to intermediate track experience (15 days or so) are the brakes going to give me better time improvement than a suspension? My thinking is I’m not good enough to find the limits of the OEM suspension as it is, and probably isn’t worn out and needing investment like the rotors and pads.

BTW, I have an M exhaust, intake and some carbon fiber and a few parts in the mail like OBD2 gauge. This winter I’ll have time to tear stuff apart and so maybe I should just do the suspension while I’m in there?

Thanks all. Cheers!

[bimmer98]

I guess to clarify I thought the M performance brakes came standard on the M2C. So to keep it easy, the red ones! Aren’t they pretty!!

[Got f1?]

Originally Posted by bimmer98

Interested in some opinions on the M2C brake setup as pertains to me. I’m now in an LCI which has about 30,000 miles just purchased. The M2 is new to me, other than an M school, but I’ve had a long heritage of bimmers dating back to the early 90’s, including three 135i. So to my point, they all seem to have some brake fade at the track even with pagad pads. I haven’t had any miles in the seat yet, and figure it will be a bunch of miles before I determine what suspension I want. So the rotors and pads are gonna need replaced soon and I think that’s the time to upgrade. I don’t have a lot of big brake upgrade experience. Car isn’t a DD. Will see weekends and several HPDS each year. I’m not considering ceramic as the car will still see most miles on the road.

Lastly with novice to intermediate track experience (15 days or so) are the brakes going to give me better time improvement than a suspension? My thinking is I’m not good enough to find the limits of the OEM suspension as it is, and probably isn’t worn out and needing investment like the rotors and pads.

BTW, I have an M exhaust, intake and some carbon fiber and a few parts in the mail like OBD2 gauge. This winter I’ll have time to tear stuff apart and so maybe I should just do the suspension while I’m in there?

Thanks all. Cheers!

Obviously lots of variables including track, alignment, wheels/tires, etc. Best starting point is change out brake fluid to Castrol SRF, and get some better pads. On the M2C, factory pads work fine. I ran mine with stock suspension and pads with street tires. Not ideal, but it worked well enough for me to learn the car. Did another session with DS2500 pads (not a huge difference from OEM) and newer MPSS tires. I've improved enough to think about track wheels/tires. I have also added coilovers. Best advice is to make incremental changes and evaluate. Plenty of people run stock calipers/rotors on LCI with better pads. My experience is a Mid Ohio with longer straights and a few higher speed corners.

[detroitm2]

High temp brake fluid and track pads. No need to upgrade the calipers and rotors yet.

Ferodo DS 1.11 or Pagid RSL29s are good options.

[Kankles]

Originally Posted by detroitm2

High temp brake fluid and track pads. No need to upgrade the calipers and rotors yet.

Ferodo DS 1.11 or Pagid RSL29s are good options.

+1 on the RSL-29s. I've done three Track days with the 2NH brakes, RSLs and motul 660 fluid with good results, very little fade. I've since added cooling scoops/hoses/backing plates but have yet to do a TD with that set up. I am getting some hairline cracks in the rotors (9k km on them) but not so bad that they need changing yet.

Only thing beyond my current set up would be non-drilled but slotted two piece front rotors. But I'll probably just do stock rotors again as they can be sourced at half the price of quality aftermarket.

Other than rotors the only upgrade beyond current would be to AP front brake kit and keep stock 2NH rears.

[bimmer98]

Thanks. I assumed this would be the best stock setup I've had, but also don't want to show up and glaze over with 30k miles already in tow. The first few weekends will be easing into it, but I definitely don't want to show up with weak brakes and limp home.

Leaves me wondering with my current mileage if I buy new pads, I'll be buying new rotors in 10k miles with half worn track pads. I've seen some used pads up for sale here that would probably get me to the end of the rotors life.

Lots of extra reading and I'm probably heading down to 18" dedicated wheels and MP upgrade doesn't accomodate most 18" setups anyways. Outside of turning green, it does seem by consensus that the stock variety are capable with proper pads.

My older models I always changed to braided lines. What's the thought on stock lines?

Thanks for the help, it's been a few years since I've had a chance to get back into track days.

[Megator]

Originally Posted by bimmer98

Thanks. I assumed this would be the best stock setup I've had, but also don't want to show up and glaze over with 30k miles already in tow. The first few weekends will be easing into it, but I definitely don't want to show up with weak brakes and limp home.

Leaves me wondering with my current mileage if I buy new pads, I'll be buying new rotors in 10k miles with half worn track pads. I've seen some used pads up for sale here that would probably get me to the end of the rotors life.

Lots of extra reading and I'm probably heading down to 18" dedicated wheels and MP upgrade doesn't accomodate most 18" setups anyways. Outside of turning green, it does seem by consensus that the stock variety are capable with proper pads.

My older models I always changed to braided lines. What's the thought on stock lines?

Thanks for the help, it's been a few years since I've had a chance to get back into track days.

Stock blue brakes are quite good with the above mentioned upgrades. Get some decent brake fluid and track pads and sort some cooling for the brakes (check my or kankles profiles for ideas).

This will be enough until you upgrade to some really really sticky tires.

Braided lines are not necessary in my opinion, the pedal is already quite firm.

KM don't say much about brake wear, wasnit 30k km on track or on highways? Brake wear will obv. Be different. You need to measure the thickness of the various components.

Pads and rotors do not need to be swapped at the same time. Im on my 3rd set of track pads on stock rotors and the rotors dont even have a lip. If you buy 2nd hand pads you dont know if they were run in properly. If pads are not run in properly they last much less.

I would buy some RSL29s or PFC08 (no exp with the latter but seems very popular).

Lastly try and run MDM or TC off, this stops the rear brakes from overheating.

[kart driver]

Originally Posted by Megator

Stock blue brakes are quite good with the above mentioned upgrades. Get some decent brake fluid and track pads and sort some cooling for the brakes (check my or kankles profiles for ideas).

This will be enough until you upgrade to some really really sticky tires.

Braided lines are not necessary in my opinion, the pedal is already quite firm.

KM don't say much about brake wear, wasnit 30k km on track or on highways? Brake wear will obv. Be different. You need to measure the thickness of the various components.

Pads and rotors do not need to be swapped at the same time. Im on my 3rd set of track pads on stock rotors and the rotors dont even have a lip. If you buy 2nd hand pads you dont know if they were run in properly. If pads are not run in properly they last much less.

I would buy some RSL29s or PFC08 (no exp with the latter but seems very popular).

Lastly try and run MDM or TC off, this stops the rear brakes from overheating.

What is needed for a proper run in for the brake pads?

[Megator]

Originally Posted by kart driver

What is needed for a proper run in for the brake pads?

Varries per manufacturer (they will provide instructions) but the general gist is to get them warm/hot without exceeding their max temp and then letting them cool fully.

Last set of pads I did some 70-80% laps then let em cool for an hour. Track org. was nice enough to let me do it before my session.

[kart driver]

Originally Posted by Megator

Varries per manufacturer (they will provide instructions) but the general gist is to get them warm/hot without exceeding their max temp and then letting them cool fully.

Last set of pads I did some 70-80% laps then let em cool for an hour. Track org. was nice enough to let me do it before my session.

Got it. Thanks!

[Kankles]

Originally Posted by kart driver

Got it. Thanks!

Pagid bed in procedures. I tried to follow these (on the Autobahn which worked out pretty well, other than being left behind by Megator)

[DriverDaily]

The red and silver caliper brakes are heavy. They might not fade as quickly as the blue ones, but they will slow you down.

I’m not considering ceramic as the car will still see most miles on the road.

I wouldn't consider carbon ceramics on a pure track car because of the cost of replacement. On a mostly street car they make sense because they don't dust, add lightness, and will probably last the lifetime of the vehicle.

If you aren't considering the carbon ceramics then check out the APRacing thread.

https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...2-now-shipping

They are still lighter than the OEM blue brakes and much cheaper than carbon ceramics.