07-17-2021, 11:39 PM | #45 |
New BMW owner
328
Rep 846
Posts |
Sharing some photos of the original that came off the M2.
I counted the turns of the bleeder and it's 4-1/2 turns before the screw will fall off (full lock to falling off). Might be nice to know since after that it'll just fall off. You can literally turn this using your fingers with medium effort. here you can see the hole (one on each side) where the fluid enters to exit out.
__________________
2018 BMW M2 LCI BM3 Stage 2 + MPE + FTP charge pipe + MST V2 Inlet + TurboSmart DV + CSF FMIC + AA Hi-flow Downpipe + Turner Rear Shifter Bushing + Wiechers Strut Brace + Bilstein B16 PSS10 + Apex VS-5RS
Last edited by vrooooom; 07-17-2021 at 11:50 PM.. |
Appreciate
1
CSBM52756.00 |
07-31-2021, 04:53 AM | #46 |
New BMW owner
328
Rep 846
Posts |
Got some more fluid and did the process shown on the YouTube video. After doing those push-in, open-close repeat a few times. A bottle of 355 ml later. Installed the clutch slave, went inside the car to test and the clutch goes to the bottom. I don’t know what’s going on.
The shop used a power bleeder type pumped to about 20 psi. Had the slave out. Each time rod was pushed and the bleeder was opened, a lot of fluid came out. We tried doing it w/o the power bleeder and I'd say a lot less were coming out. This morning I tried it and half of the travel is soft. Back to square one. Anyone? Last edited by vrooooom; 07-31-2021 at 07:48 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
08-01-2021, 12:21 AM | #47 |
Second Lieutenant
117
Rep 220
Posts |
Put everything back in the car. Fill the reservoir or use the pressure bleeder. Crack the valve at the slave (don't take it anywhere near the 4 turns you showed it takes to get it out, just enough to pass fluid through). Keep pumping slowly, manually lifting the pedal to the top and pushing it down, and checking the reservoir if not using the pressure tank. As Nezil pointed out at the beginning of this thread, the clutch portion of the reservoir is much smaller than the rest of the tank. Keep pushing fluid through until you're confident any air is out. Tighten the slave valve. Pedal still sitting on the floor? Normal. Lift it and push it back down. Still soft after 20x? Keep going. 50? It should firm up. Point being, it's not done when you tighten up the valve at first.
If it's still soft after this, or softens up again after getting firm, you may have air getting into the system somehow. |
Appreciate
0
|
08-01-2021, 08:31 AM | #48 |
New BMW owner
328
Rep 846
Posts |
I'll give that a try. how slowly should I be moving that pedal each way- 2-3 secs each direction?
__________________
2018 BMW M2 LCI BM3 Stage 2 + MPE + FTP charge pipe + MST V2 Inlet + TurboSmart DV + CSF FMIC + AA Hi-flow Downpipe + Turner Rear Shifter Bushing + Wiechers Strut Brace + Bilstein B16 PSS10 + Apex VS-5RS
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-03-2021, 03:51 PM | #49 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
1424
Rep 1,821
Posts |
Quote:
After bleeding (not terribly successfully) with a pressure bleeder, I closed the valve and pumped the pedal a few dozen times, with each pump making it feel better and better. The air in the lines will somewhat self bleed (bubbles will float up to the fluid reservoir). Eventually it got to a completely normal pedal, minus the clutch delay valve plate restriction.
__________________
-2014 328d Wagon, 8HP. Self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs.
-2019 M2 Competition MT, Alpine White. Self-tuned 560hp -2016 Mini Cooper S, MT. Many plans. Others: -E36 328is. 2000 Z3 Roady. 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual. Estoril Z3M Coupe. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-16-2021, 03:44 AM | #50 |
Lieutenant
449
Rep 557
Posts |
I just did the CDV delete and used a Motive pressure bleeder, initial attempt failed as I didn't appreciate how small the clutch chamber really is inside the brake reservoir!! Rather than wasting racing fluid I just fill the car reservoir then bleed a little, disconnect pressure bleeder/refill reservoir/bleed & so on. Filling the reservoir to 'max' I was very quickly getting air into the line, it's not enough unless you have the pressure bleeder set up to continuously feed fluid to the reservoir. Pedal went straight to floor & stayed there
So I filled the reservoir to top of the neck, with 10-12psi on the pressure bleeder I opened the bleed nipple just enough to get the fluid flowing then closed it once I guessed reservoir was around 'max' level, refilled to top of neck and repeat. Doing that 4 times cleared all the air and pedal was perfect. If I'd been smart enough to do this process first time the bleeding would have been a 10min job. btw I was surprised at how much of an improvement deleting the CDV made, I followed the method using a wood screw to remove it with the slave cylinder left on the car, was easy & quick. |
Appreciate
1
-Eidos495.50 |
05-11-2024, 07:36 PM | #51 |
Second Lieutenant
131
Rep 226
Posts |
How to get the air out
Today was my fifth time flushing BMW clutch fluid over the past few years using a Motive Pressure Bleeder. The past 4 times went beautifully, but today I somehow messed up and got air in the lines. A little ways into the flush I suddenly saw a BUNCH of air bubbles coming through my catchcan tube. I went up to the clutch pedal and as it sank to the floor, so did my stomach. I'm pretty sure it happened because I left the slave bleeder valve open too long, and the clutch fluid reservoir went dry, even though I had the pressure bleeder filled and pressurizing the brake/clutch fluid reservoir. So moral of the story is: when you're bleeding with a pressure bleeder, you should still probably only open the bleeder valve for max 10 seconds at a time; then pause to let the clutch partition refill and repeat as needed.
Anyway to solve my predicament I was expecting to spend HOURS based on what I'd read from past posts about this problem. Thankfully I got it fixed in less than 20 minutes all by myself. This was my process: 1) Top off the brake fluid reservoir 2) Hook up the pressure bleeder (with fluid in it) 3) Start pressing the clutch pedal. Wait 5 seconds between each push to let the clutch partition refill. Press about 15x and watch the bubbles come up the pressure bleeder tube 4) Go under the car and open the slave bleeder valve for 5 seconds and watch the bubbles come out 5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the pedal feels firm again. I did about 4 cycles, and after that my pedal felt 100%. YMMV.
__________________
2017 F87 M2: MGM, 6MT, AA Tune, Eibach Pro-Kit, Fabspeed Catted Downpipe, Evolution Racewerks FMIC+Chargepipe, Autosolutions SSK, CDV Delete, Vorshlag Plates, PFC-08 pads, Apex EC-7 18x9.5"
2013 E92 328i M-Sport: BSM, 6MT, 3IM+AA Tune, BMW PE, M3 control arms, Eibach Pro-Kit, Bilstein B8, BMW SSK, CDV Delete, Apex EC-7 18x9" |
05-12-2024, 02:21 PM | #52 |
Captain
511
Rep 882
Posts |
Just use a vacuum bleeder and don't go too fast. That way you can top up the reservoir at any time.
__________________
BMW M2 LCI -18 | BMW 520DA Touring M-Sport -12
| BMW Z4 M Coupe -06 | BMW M3 -02 | BMW Z3 Coupe -99 | BMW 740i/6 -96 | BMW M5 3.8 -92 | BMW M535i -87 |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|