[azny]

22k miles, maintenance done on time, no prior related warning/error messages. Wife was driving it around town, stopped at a gas station to fill up and it won’t start afterwards.

Says ‘engine overheated try again in 30 seconds’. Of course it won’t start in 30 seconds or 30 minutes later when I arrived. When I got there it I could smell something burning (electrical fire smell) but didn’t see anything visible or any smoke.

It’s getting towed to the dealer tonight - will update the group when I find out what happened. disappointing.

[dmanb2b]

40i or 50i...keep us posted and good luck

[Kivilig]

Originally Posted by azny

22k miles, maintenance done on time, no prior related warning/error messages. Wife was driving it around town, stopped at a gas station to fill up and it won’t start afterwards.

Says ‘engine overheated try again in 30 seconds’. Of course it won’t start in 30 seconds or 30 minutes later when I arrived. When I got there it I could smell something burning (electrical fire smell) but didn’t see anything visible or any smoke.

It’s getting towed to the dealer tonight - will update the group when I find out what happened. disappointing.

Might be related to gas cap, but since you smell fire might be something else,

[azny]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

40i or 50i...keep us posted and good luck

.....it's a 40i. Waiting for the advisor to call me back

[M2COMP]

Originally Posted by azny

22k miles, maintenance done on time, no prior related warning/error messages. Wife was driving it around town, stopped at a gas station to fill up and it won’t start afterwards.

Says ‘engine overheated try again in 30 seconds’. Of course it won’t start in 30 seconds or 30 minutes later when I arrived. When I got there it I could smell something burning (electrical fire smell) but didn’t see anything visible or any smoke.

It’s getting towed to the dealer tonight - will update the group when I find out what happened. disappointing.

Happened to me with my previous X5. Car shut down 3 miles after filling up with shell. Was towed to dealership. Bad gas, water mixed, messed up the fuel injectors and fuel pump. They had to change and clean the system. Not covered by warranty. Nearly cost $2k. Shell gas station paid for it. Make sure you have the gas receipt. If not then go back and get a reprint on your gas receipt. Since that day I always take the receipt after filling (now 5 years) and discard after 30 miles.
Never fill up if it's raining to heavy and gas station has multiple puddles, water contamination of gasoline, or tankers are filling gas in fuel station as it stirs all the debris from the bottom.

[azny]

Coincidentally my wife had filled up at our local Shell as well. It turns out bad gas wasn’t the issue. They were able to start it in the morning but then it stopped again. It needs a new starter motor (about $3k all in). Don’t understand the engine overheating warning and I’ve asked the advisor to check with the technician for that answer.

Separately, I got them to check on an ‘intermittent driving assistance reduced’ warning I was getting. That’s well covered in some other threads and dealer said it requires a new windshield (faulty wiring in sensor near/in rear view mirror). That’s another $2-$3k.

I don’t have to pay for any of it of course but it’s making me reconsider my decision to buy it at the end of the lease in 8 months. I was considering that because the pricing on new ones is still pretty rich and this one will have better market than residual of $49k.

I’ll update if problem is fixed when I get it back tues/wed next week.

[Phasers]

Originally Posted by azny

Coincidentally my wife had filled up at our local Shell as well. It turns out bad gas wasn’t the issue. They were able to start it in the morning but then it stopped again. It needs a new starter motor (about $3k all in). Don’t understand the engine overheating warning and I’ve asked the advisor to check with the technician for that answer.

Separately, I got them to check on an ‘intermittent driving assistance reduced’ warning I was getting. That’s well covered in some other threads and dealer said it requires a new windshield (faulty wiring in sensor near/in rear view mirror). That’s another $2-$3k.

I don’t have to pay for any of it of course but it’s making me reconsider my decision to buy it at the end of the lease in 8 months. I was considering that because the pricing on new ones is still pretty rich and this one will have better market than residual of $49k.

I’ll update if problem is fixed when I get it back tues/wed next week.

Nothing stopping you from buying it and flipping it at end of lease.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by Phasers

Nothing stopping you from buying it and flipping it at end of lease.

Or hold until warranty is up at 50K, then flip

[azny]

Good ideas, thx - I might go down that route assuming used market value stays high and new X7 pricing also remains elevated

[TexasJester]

My answer may not be popular but it’s my program and anyone driving an X7 isn’t budget minded so here goes. Any vehicle I own that has to go to the shop for a problem, I only go to the dealership to pick out my next vehicle. Also, any new vehicle at or around 20k miles value takes a huge hit. I have been trading at @18500 miles. But because the 23 inch tires on the Alpina XB7 are 15000 mile tires I’m now trading at 12000 miles. I bought a 2021 ram crew cab Laramie Dually @6 months ago. At 7500 miles I traded it in, it cast me $2000 to drive 4 months and 7500 miles. Needless to say, if you trade this often you don’t pay what the 2 or more year traders pay. And you certainly don’t pay sticker even for the newest hottest stuff.

[Kivilig]

Originally Posted by TexasJester

My answer may not be popular but it’s my program and anyone driving an X7 isn’t budget minded so here goes. Any vehicle I own that has to go to the shop for a problem, I only go to the dealership to pick out my next vehicle. Also, any new vehicle at or around 20k miles value takes a huge hit. I have been trading at @18500 miles. But because the 23 inch tires on the Alpina XB7 are 15000 mile tires I’m now trading at 12000 miles. I bought a 2021 ram crew cab Laramie Dually @6 months ago. At 7500 miles I traded it in, it cast me $2000 to drive 4 months and 7500 miles. Needless to say, if you trade this often you don’t pay what the 2 or more year traders pay. And you certainly don’t pay sticker even for the newest hottest stuff.

You have a good point here and it might be good for some cars.
The used car market is super hot right now, I bought a VW jetta back in 2018 with 4k miles for $16.5 K as cert pre own, drove it as commuter car till last week and sold it for 15.5 k last week, so that car cost me 1500 for three years, however if it was not for this crazy market with all this covid stuff, I wouldn't get that much for that jetta.
This week I finally took the delivery of our X7 m50i, once it hits 10000 miles I will check the market value and if it makes sense I will sell it and will get new one

[azny]

Got it back on Wednesday (new starter motor and new windshield - for the broken circuit causing ‘driving assistance reduced’ faults). Only been a couple of days but so far so good. Will update if it changes

[azny]

So, the driving assistance reduced fault is back back to the dealer. Not a good couple of months with my BMWs

[thenew3]

Originally Posted by azny

Got it back on Wednesday (new starter motor and new windshield - for the broken circuit causing ‘driving assistance reduced’ faults). Only been a couple of days but so far so good. Will update if it changes

Just wondering, did you use the auto start/stop feature? I always wonder if the starter motors will die prematurely when using start/stop. I know they beef it up a bit, but still, that's a lot of start cycles.
I code mine off as soon as I get it home.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by azny

So, the driving assistance reduced fault is back back to the dealer. Not a good couple of months with my BMWs

If this happens again, scan the car before heading into the dealer.

[azny]

'scan the car' meaning plug in some device that reads codes? If so, any recommendations on which device to buy? thanks

[azny]

Originally Posted by thenew3

Just wondering, did you use the auto start/stop feature? I always wonder if the starter motors will die prematurely when using start/stop. I know they beef it up a bit, but still, that's a lot of start cycles.
I code mine off as soon as I get it home.

I was wondering if it were related as well. I turn it off most times when driving but don't think my wife does it.

[GL]

A bad starter motor does not make an engine overheat. A bad starter should not cost $3K. Something doesn't add up. Is it possible a bad starter is throwing a misleading code/error message? Sure. I know it's all under warranty, but their explanation doesn't make sense to me.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by azny

'scan the car' meaning plug in some device that reads codes? If so, any recommendations on which device to buy? thanks

I have a few that I like for BMWs as they don't just pull generic codes, but also BMW specific error codes, please see below:

IOS App BimmerLink - Not my favorite, but very convenient given it's on IOS so it always on my phone. Requires a BT adapter that they list as compatible, but once you have that you can also buy Bimmercode, which I use to adjust factory set features, including disabling auto/start/stop.

Android app Protool - depending on the module you purchase, it can do both diagnostics and coding. This is probably the most feature-rich tool besides ISTA and ESYS which are both BMW SW tools

Foxwel NT510 or higher...ECS also sells a Schwaben version of the same scanner - Also very convenient, no BT adapter required as it is a standalone device. Less user-friendly than a phone app, but pretty easy to navigate.

ISTA for Diagnostics and ESYS for coding Both are BMW proprietary SW programs, that require a laptop and OBD2/Enet cable to run, but you literally have the same tools dealers technicians use, so you have access to repair protocols, etc. The software is out there in the forums and I will leave that at that.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by thenew3

Just wondering, did you use the auto start/stop feature? I always wonder if the starter motors will die prematurely when using start/stop. I know they beef it up a bit, but still, that's a lot of start cycles.
I code mine off as soon as I get it home.

I wouldn't worry about it. BMW has had start/stop tech going since 2008 and the mild-hybrid in '21 and up 40i models actually has a separate starter system.

That said, I coded ours off as I just find it annoying.

[azny]

Originally Posted by GL

A bad starter motor does not make an engine overheat. A bad starter should not cost $3K. Something doesn't add up. Is it possible a bad starter is throwing a misleading code/error message? Sure. I know it's all under warranty, but their explanation doesn't make sense to me.

that was the explanation - bad starter motor throwing erroneous codes. Re the cost of replacement, it was a guesstimate from the advisor given its under warranty - I'm sure they have different prices they charge BMW for warranty repair vs. what end consumers pay if not under warranty.

[azny]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

I have a few that I like for BMWs as they don't just pull generic codes, but also BMW specific error codes, please see below:

IOS App BimmerLink - Not my favorite, but very convenient given it's on IOS so it always on my phone. Requires a BT adapter that they list as compatible, but once you have that you can also buy Bimmercode, which I use to adjust factory set features, including disabling auto/start/stop.

Android app Protool - depending on the module you purchase, it can do both diagnostics and coding. This is probably the most feature-rich tool besides ISTA and ESYS which are both BMW SW tools


Foxwel NT510 or higher...ECS also sells a Schwaben version of the same scanner - Also very convenient, no BT adapter required as it is a standalone device. Less user-friendly than a phone app, but pretty easy to navigate.

ISTA for Diagnostics and ESYS for coding Both are BMW proprietary SW programs, that require a laptop and OBD2/Enet cable to run, but you literally have the same tools dealers technicians use, so you have access to repair protocols, etc. The software is out there in the forums and I will leave that at that.

thank you, very helpful. I'll look them up and get one of them.