04-18-2019, 01:13 PM | #23 |
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04-18-2019, 01:15 PM | #24 | |
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04-18-2019, 09:05 PM | #26 | |
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You're correct. Funny thing is that I thought I confirmed the spacing of the bolts on wheel-size. They are indeed 5x112 with a 66mm center bore like the other recent BMW's. |
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04-19-2019, 08:57 AM | #28 |
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what size? not sure if 19"s will clear the break.
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04-19-2019, 09:24 AM | #29 |
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04-19-2019, 02:50 PM | #30 | ||
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04-20-2019, 09:40 AM | #31 |
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I’m ok using breaker bar to loosen them up unless you guys know a impact wrench that is a good value for this job.
Re stands, you guys lift up one corner at a time using jack then put in a jack stand at the other lift point on the same side of the car? And if so, you use a stand with adapter so that it slides right into The bmw plastic lift points? |
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04-20-2019, 12:54 PM | #32 | |
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DEWALT DCF899HB 20v MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil... ~$200 from amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7..._yQ1UCb3DBYF28 Phenomenal impact wrench. No matter how much the dealer over-torques the bolts or how seized the lug bolts might be after a long winter, this baby powers anything off with ease. I've had this for about 2 years and a previous model DeWalt for even longer. I use them both quite often during track season and of course during seasonal winter wheel swaps on all our cars. They both still work great. Seems built to last.
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04-20-2019, 01:09 PM | #33 | |
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Here's what I do. I'm sure there are 'safer' ways but it's what I do. 1. Park the car with parking brake and chock two wheels. (level ground) 2. Arrange the new wheels ready nearby. 3. Use a protected 17mm socket on my wrench (~18"-24" handle) to loosen the lug bolts a 1/4 turn 4. Place a jack pad adapter on the floor jack and roll the floor jack under the BMW jack point. Lift the car until the wheel is in the air. 5. Complete the removal of the lug bolts. 6. Remove the wheel. 7. Add a small amount of Aluminum Anti-seize lube around wheel hub lip to make removal of the wheel easier next season. 8. (Optional but helpful if using wheel spacers) Insert a pilot lug. 9. Lift new wheel onto the hub. Normally I just rest the wheel on the lip of the hub (or on the pilot lug) and start hand tightening the wheel bolts in place. Remove the pilot lug if I used one and replace it with a bolt. 10. Tighten the bolts most of the way. 11. Use the floor jack to lower the car back onto the wheel. 12. Torque the bolts (star pattern) with my torque wrench (usually 98-102 lb ft). 13. Repeat 14. Check and set tire pressure Usually this takes me 60-75 minutes including setup and cleanup time. |
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04-20-2019, 01:16 PM | #34 |
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I try to place a jack stand closer to lifting point in the same corner, usually something that can support the car's weight like suspension subframes, etc (varies by car) because the whole point of the jack stand in this case is to serve as backup to the floor jack in case that fails so I don't get crushed. If you try and place it at the other lift point on the other axle, that might not be enough to prevent the corner you're working on from collapsing on you if the floor jack fails. For our Audis, I place it on the subframe suspension mount nearest the lifting point on the same corner. For the X7, I don't know because I don't own one yet.
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04-20-2019, 02:57 PM | #35 |
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wow you guys absolutely rock, ty for your help.
two quick questions: 1) the 17mm protected socket works on the 5x112 bolts of the x7? looks like it will cause the crank that i have with my spare seems to be for a/f 17mm sized bolts. 2) what size pilot would you get for the x7? i'm running the staggered 22s in the summer, 21s in the winter. looks m14 x 1.25 is good for the x7 Last edited by ppagiga; 04-20-2019 at 03:15 PM.. |
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04-20-2019, 03:10 PM | #36 | |
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The pilot lug is 14mm x 1.25mm. |
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04-21-2019, 09:36 AM | #37 | |
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you have a floor jack you like? guessing 3 ton is sufficient but may lean 3.5 ton. more options at the 3 ton capacity than the 3.5 ton |
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04-21-2019, 11:41 AM | #38 | |
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