[tkelley86]

Originally Posted by Brendon

I just pulled the trigger on a JL ACP108LG-W3v3 powered sub and the LC2i with the LOC. Hopefully I'll be able to get everything installed next week.

I'll be sure to report back with my learnings once complete.

Nice!

No harness? Just high jacking the signal from somewhere else?

[Brendon]

Originally Posted by tkelley86

Nice!

No harness? Just high jacking the signal from somewhere else?

Ah, sorry, by LC2i I meant the Technic adapter. Got that one with the LOC option included.

[swainbmw]

Originally Posted by keg97

I need to look at it when I get home. My audio guy somehow wired it into the rear somehow. I dropped it off one morning and picked it up in the afternoon and didn't ask too many questions. I trust him and he knows what I like/want. I do know he didn't fuss about this like he did when he put a sub in our older Audi Q7 with the Bang & Olufson upgraded system. That system is amazing!

The sub itself is nothing special- just a 10 inch powered unit. I'm not that snobby . I just needed more ooomph out of the HK system. Truthfully the sub is on a very very low level/volume.

You need a amp the one from bmw is under powered.

[keg97]

Originally Posted by swainbmw

You need a amp the one from bmw is under powered.

Yes, I know. Mine is powered.

[swainbmw]

Originally Posted by keg97

Yes, I know. Mine is powered.

That’s good because the oem amp is way under powered.and it need more power for volume and better sound

[FSociety]

Post picture of the install

[tkelley86]

For anyone with a JL Audio box, like the ones we have been circulating in this conversation...

Can you take a pic of your subs knobs so I can see how you have your level/gain, crossover, phase adjusted? I'm still waiting on my car but did test the sub out the other day.

It's got tons of bass at medium volumes then it basically disappears as you turn it up. Wanted to see how others were running theirs.

[Brendon]

So I got completely geared up to do an install of a powered Audison APBX 10 AS2 subwoofer w/ the TechnicPnP harness, and realized that having the 5 zone climate package appears to significantly complicate the install. The rear HVAC unit appears to be completely obstructing the factory amplifier, which you need to tap into for the wiring harness.

Update: found this thread with instructions for removing the rear trim panel in order to access the amp: https://g07.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2011815

[tkelley86]

Originally Posted by Brendon

So I got completely geared up to do an install of a powered Audison APBX 10 AS2 subwoofer w/ the TechnicPnP harness, and realized that having the 5 zone climate package appears to significantly complicate the install. The rear HVAC unit appears to be completely obstructing the factory amplifier, which you need to tap into for the wiring harness.

Update: found this thread with instructions for removing the rear trim panel in order to access the amp: https://g07.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2011815

My installer ran into the same problem with the B&W system (not sure which one you have. I also have the Cold Weather package with the 3rd row climate control.

While we are on this topic, here has was my experience with Technic PNP harness, the LOC they supplied, and the JL Audio loaded and powered boxes:

-I started with a JL Audio 10" powered box (ACS110LG-TW1-UOB-K = 400W RMS). WAY TOO MUCH BASS. That was with the LOC cranked down to zero, the crossover at the lowest setting and the gain at the lowest setting. However, if I set the iDrive bass down to 0 or even up to like +2, then it sounded fine. This didnt work for me as I wanted the bass on B&W door speakers to fire hard since they are amazing so I returned it.

-I swapped that for a JL Audio 8" powered box (ACP108LG-W3v3-UA = 250W RMS). Same problem, WAY TOO MUCH BASS. Same settings for the sub and LOC as above but now I could maybe go up to +4 bass in iDrive and it wouldn't be overkill. Mind you, this is with the sub flipped upside down in the spare tire compartment wrapped in Dynamat.

-I was at my wits end and was ready to try one last sub that had way less power than both of those units (the Kicker 46HS10 with 180W RMS) but before I did that, had one last idea.

-So I bought the JL Audio gain knob (in this case, it was the RBC-1 which is compatible with the 8" sub I referenced above). Low and behold, that gave me the ability to actually control how hard the sub was hitting from low to medium to high. Before, I felt like I was stuck at either medium/high or high only.

-So now I have my iDrive bass maxed out so the B&W is doing what it's supposed to, the crossover set to about 80, and the gain on the knob set to about half and it's perfect!

This was a lot of trial and error but the finished product was 1000% worth the time and money invested as I now have what I think is the best system I've ever heard in a vehicle.

[Brendon]

tkelley86 Very helpful, thank you!

Curious, how much did you pay for the install? And how much of a problem was it for them to access the factory amp? Trying to get a quote right now but the stereo shop has been slow getting back to me.

[tkelley86]

Originally Posted by Brendon

tkelley86 Very helpful, thank you!

Curious, how much did you pay for the install? And how much of a problem was it for them to access the factory amp? Trying to get a quote right now but the stereo shop has been slow getting back to me.

They had to take apart the rear drivers side section of the car to get to the harness. He charged me $500 parts and labor for everything and did a really nice job making everything look OEM. I got the sub and control knob for around $400 so it was $900 total which is a bargain in my mind for what I have now.