[Dippydo]

Originally Posted by utenigma

It's impossible to swing the strut out under the fender with the spring loaded

If you want to disassemble the lower part of the front suspension you could do it that way - I didn't

I would think dropping the lower part would be much easier than trying to take out the spring still in the well. Just my opinion.

[amf]

when i did my install. I was able to remove the strut without compressing springs. I do I have 328i sport with dynamic struts. I was able to loosed everything then push down on rotor with foot to get enough clearance to swing out. I did have a helper guiding the strut out while i pushed down with my foot on rotor. This was easy. Driver side I did remove steering tie rod end. On passenger side I decided to use a little more force and push down on rotor with steering tie rod still in place. I think the drivers side can be removed as well with out removing steering.

[utenigma]

Originally Posted by Dippydo

I would think dropping the lower part would be much easier than trying to take out the spring still in the well. Just my opinion.

I didn't take the spring out in the well

I just put the spring compressor on and compressed the spring in the well, allowing me to compress the shock shrinking the entire assembly then swing it out of the well

I'll film it when I put the camber plates in - yall can tell show me the easier way after

[Dippydo]

Originally Posted by utenigma

I didn't take the spring out in the well

I just put the spring compressor on and compressed the spring in the well, allowing me to compress the shock shrinking the entire assembly then swing it out of the well

I'll film it when I put the camber plates in - yall can tell show me the easier way after

You got camber plates for the F30? Who's? I need to replace my top had in front since they seem to be making noise with my coil overs and did not want to buy a set of stock BMW plates.

[utenigma]

Originally Posted by Dippydo

You got camber plates for the F30? Who's? I need to replace my top had in front since they seem to be making noise with my coil overs and did not want to buy a set of stock BMW plates.

Ground Control

[utenigma]

PS I'm going to put pictures, unpacking, review etc here http://www.f30post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=945419 when I get them in

[Dippydo]

Originally Posted by utenigma

Ground Control

Didn't think Ground Control mess with BMWs much. I used them on my Hondas back in the day. Sweet.

[kapkanimd]

The install is pretty simple. Just did it myself. Had there been a DIY or something ahead of time, I could of done this in an hour. Just figuring it out myself only took about 3hrs. It is basically just as utenigma said, however I wouldn't recommend removing eccentric bolt as it is not necessary and will mess with alignment. For the rear, you just need to remove (in addition to the sway bar link) the lower shock bolt an the large (21mm) bolt right next to it. That will allow you to lower the assembly enough to remove the springs. Anyhow, here are some before and after pics (of course with a wheel swap as well).

[FreddyG]

Originally Posted by kapkanimd

The install is pretty simple. Just did it myself. Had there been a DIY or something ahead of time, I could of done this in an hour. Just figuring it out myself only took about 3hrs. It is basically just as utenigma said, however I wouldn't recommend removing eccentric bolt as it is not necessary and will mess with alignment. For the rear, you just need to remove (in addition to the sway bar link) the lower shock bolt an the large (21mm) bolt right next to it. That will allow you to lower the assembly enough to remove the springs. Anyhow, here are some before and after pics (of course with a wheel swap as well).

Nicely Done! Your car looks Great!

Subscribing for a lot of good info! Thanks!

[2FastCars78]

Does anyone know the size of the e-torx bolts holding the top of the rear shocks? Also, what's everyone using for the special through socket and allen wrench combo (possibly an O2 sensor socket)?

I appreciate everyone's help!

[dtn]

I was able to use this thread as an impromptu DIY to install my springs today. However it took me longer than I'd like because it wasn't a real DIY and I wasn't aware of some tools I was missing i.e. pass-through sockets/wrench. The front is exponentially more difficult and time consuming than the rear. The rears took 20 min each, and the front took hours, mostly because of compressing the spring, then compressing again enough so the top hat didn't blow off in my face when taking it off.

Originally Posted by 2FastCars78

Does anyone know the size of the e-torx bolts holding the top of the rear shocks? Also, what's everyone using for the special through socket and allen wrench combo (possibly an O2 sensor socket)?

I appreciate everyone's help!

Not sure on the torx size because you don't have to take that off for a spring swap. I just used a pass-through socket and allen wrench/torx driver when needed.

[TurboM]

Originally Posted by dtn

I was able to use this thread as an impromptu DIY to install my springs today. However it took me longer than I'd like because it wasn't a real DIY and I wasn't aware of some tools I was missing i.e. pass-through sockets/wrench. The front is exponentially more difficult and time consuming than the rear. The rears took 20 min each, and the front took hours, mostly because of compressing the spring, then compressing again enough so the top hat didn't blow off in my face when taking it off.



Not sure on the torx size because you don't have to take that off for a spring swap. I just used a pass-through socket and allen wrench/torx driver when needed.

Funny, I installed springs on my car yesterday as well and couldn't agree more. The first front took me quite some time because of 2 issues I ran into:

1. You need some sort of special socket to loosen/remove the nut holding on the hat of the strut
2. The sway bar linkage is a similar process to install as the hat on the strut as you need to hold the bolt in place with an allen key and then tighten with a socket/wrench. This was a huge pain in the ass as I can banged up a couple of the starting threads and it took forever to fix them and get the nut all the way back on.

The 2nd front only took about 45 minutes. The first back took me almost an hour and the 2nd back only took 15 minutes (really easy once you know how to do it).

Also, I don't really agree with the step by step instructions on the previous page, especially for the rear as removing the eccentric bolt will through your alignment out of whack. If your going to get an alignment following the installation maybe this will be easier but I chose not to and therefore left the eccentric bolt untouched.

These were the steps I took for my 2013 328i M Sport (non-adaptive sport suspension).

Front:
1. Jack up car & remove wheel
2. Loosen nut on top of strut hat (do not remove, only break it loose)
3. Remove sway bar linkage bolt from strut and make sure you have some slack on your brake lines and any wiring.
4. Remove 4 bolts that hold strut in the engine bay (place jack underneath lower control arm to support the weight of the hub)
5. Lower hub down and using a little bit of force, slide top part of strut out of the wheel well (be careful of fender).
6. Compress spring using 2 spring compressors as close to 180 degrees apart as possible. I was only able to grab 2 coils on one side and 3 on the other side of the spring. But after tightening these down all the way the spring was compressed enough to not be a safety hazard. I put on my hockey helmet and cage just to be safe tho, haha.
7. Carefully remove the nut the holds strut hat on.
8. Reverse steps to install

Rear:
1. Jack up car & remove wheel
2. Remove 18mm bolt holding the strut to the lower control arm (you'll need a torx socket to hold the other side, although I don't remember the size)
3. Remove the big 21mm bolt holding the lower control arm to the hub.
4. Pull down on lower control arm and remove/install spring
5. Use a jack to lift the control arm back into place (this is a bit tricky as you need to align all of the holes again to get the bolts through. Id recommend installing the big 21mm first. I used a screw driver and hammer to help align and get it through and it wasn't too bad).
6. Reinstall both the 21mm and 18mm nuts/bolts/wheel. Done

Keep in mind these steps may vary ever so slightly across different models (335i, X-Drive, M Adaptive suspension, Non-sport suspension, etc.). Hope this post is able to help save a few people some time and frustration as if you have the instructions correct prior to the install you should be able to do this in 3 hours by yourself without a lift or air tools (probably half the time with).

[ssng]

does anyone know the exact size of the special tools we need ie. torx socket, socket to remove nut so that I can get them ready for an install.. thanks!!!!

[dtn]

Originally Posted by TurboM

Funny, I installed springs on my car yesterday as well and couldn't agree more. The first front took me quite some time because of 2 issues I ran into:

1. You need some sort of special socket to loosen/remove the nut holding on the hat of the strut
2. The sway bar linkage is a similar process to install as the hat on the strut as you need to hold the bolt in place with an allen key and then tighten with a socket/wrench. This was a huge pain in the ass as I can banged up a couple of the starting threads and it took forever to fix them and get the nut all the way back on.

The 2nd front only took about 45 minutes. The first back took me almost an hour and the 2nd back only took 15 minutes (really easy once you know how to do it).

Also, I don't really agree with the step by step instructions on the previous page, especially for the rear as removing the eccentric bolt will through your alignment out of whack. If your going to get an alignment following the installation maybe this will be easier but I chose not to and therefore left the eccentric bolt untouched.

These were the steps I took for my 2013 328i M Sport (non-adaptive sport suspension).

Front:
1. Jack up car & remove wheel
2. Loosen nut on top of strut hat (do not remove, only break it loose)
3. Remove sway bar linkage bolt from strut and make sure you have some slack on your brake lines and any wiring.
4. Remove 4 bolts that hold strut in the engine bay (place jack underneath lower control arm to support the weight of the hub)
5. Lower hub down and using a little bit of force, slide top part of strut out of the wheel well (be careful of fender).
6. Compress spring using 2 spring compressors as close to 180 degrees apart as possible. I was only able to grab 2 coils on one side and 3 on the other side of the spring. But after tightening these down all the way the spring was compressed enough to not be a safety hazard. I put on my hockey helmet and cage just to be safe tho, haha.
7. Carefully remove the nut the holds strut hat on.
8. Reverse steps to install

Rear:
1. Jack up car & remove wheel
2. Remove 18mm bolt holding the strut to the lower control arm (you'll need a torx socket to hold the other side, although I don't remember the size)
3. Remove the big 21mm bolt holding the lower control arm to the hub.
4. Pull down on lower control arm and remove/install spring
5. Use a jack to lift the control arm back into place (this is a bit tricky as you need to align all of the holes again to get the bolts through. Id recommend installing the big 21mm first. I used a screw driver and hammer to help align and get it through and it wasn't too bad).
6. Reinstall both the 21mm and 18mm nuts/bolts/wheel. Done

Keep in mind these steps may vary ever so slightly across different models (335i, X-Drive, M Adaptive suspension, Non-sport suspension, etc.). Hope this post is able to help save a few people some time and frustration as if you have the instructions correct prior to the install you should be able to do this in 3 hours by yourself without a lift or air tools (probably half the time with).

Just to add for future DIYers, sizes for bolts etc.

Front
Top hat allen wrench is a 6, bolt is a pass-through 16mm I believe
Sway bar screw was a torx 30 and nut was a pass-through 16mm

Rear
Sway bar same as front
Shock bolt is 18mm as mentioned above and etorx is 14
Control arm bolt and nut are both 21

When re-installing rear, you have to install control arm bolt first because the shock bolt pinches the end of the arm.

Originally Posted by ssng

does anyone know the exact size of the special tools we need ie. torx socket, socket to remove nut so that I can get them ready for an install.. thanks!!!!

See above.


I can't describe how thoroughly impressed I am with how much the handling changed after just these springs. It's a wonder how lowering the center of gravity and a bit stiffer springs can do. Is there still body roll? Yes. But you can now take aggressive corners and the ride is still comfortable.

[TurboM]

Originally Posted by dtn

Just to add for future DIYers, sizes for bolts etc.

Front
Top hat allen wrench is a 6, bolt is a pass-through 16mm I believe
Sway bar screw was a torx 30 and nut was a pass-through 16mm

Rear
Sway bar same as front
Shock bolt is 18mm as mentioned above and etorx is 14
Control arm bolt and nut are both 21

When re-installing rear, you have to install control arm bolt first because the shock bolt pinches the end of the arm.




See above.


I can't describe how thoroughly impressed I am with how much the handling changed after just these springs. It's a wonder how lowering the center of gravity and a bit stiffer springs can do. Is there still body roll? Yes. But you can now take aggressive corners and the ride is still comfortable.

Top strut hat is an 18mm, not 16mm

[BatDad]

Hey everyone,

I am about to get these installed on my F30 335i Sport. As much as I would love to try and install them myself, I know I would jack everything up lol. Im not mechanically inclined. I have a quote from a shop that wants 580 for install and another 90 for the alignment. I have no idea what a good price would be for installation. Can anyone give me some ballparks?

Thanks!

[M3AWD]

Originally Posted by BatDad

Hey everyone,

I am about to get these installed on my F30 335i Sport. As much as I would love to try and install them myself, I know I would jack everything up lol. Im not mechanically inclined. I have a quote from a shop that wants 580 for install and another 90 for the alignment. I have no idea what a good price would be for installation. Can anyone give me some ballparks?

Thanks!

I was quoted up to $600 for installation by some shops, but I ended up paying $300 at a local BMW specialist. Alignment was an additional $90.

[BatDad]

Originally Posted by M-SP0RT

I was quoted up to $600 for installation by some shops, but I ended up paying $300 at a local BMW specialist. Alignment was an additional $90.

Thank you for replying! I noticed you are in Atlanta, I'm right up the street in Roswell. Do you mind telling me the shop? I got my quote from Bimmers in Roswell. The dealership referred me to them.

[M3AWD]

Originally Posted by BatDad

Thank you for replying! I noticed you are in Atlanta, I'm right up the street in Roswell. Do you mind telling me the shop? I got my quote from Bimmers in Roswell. The dealership referred me to them.

I did mine at Bimmers in Kennesaw.

[BatDad]

Originally Posted by M-SP0RT

I did mine at Bimmers in Kennesaw.

Same owners. Hmmm why on earth would they try to charge me $300 more...not cool.

[M3AWD]

Originally Posted by BatDad

Same owners. Hmmm why on earth would they try to charge me $300 more...not cool.

I can't remember how much their initial quote was, probably $450. I just checked my receipt - I ended up paying $340 not $300.

[dtn]

Originally Posted by M-SP0RT

I can't remember how much their initial quote was, probably $450. I just checked my receipt - I ended up paying $340 not $300.

Originally Posted by BatDad

Same owners. Hmmm why on earth would they try to charge me $300 more...not cool.

Upwards of $500 is insane! I had some "BMW specialists" wanting to charge me about that. I just laughed at them and hung up the phone. A shop that knows what they're doing shouldn't charge you more than $250. My best quote was for $200 from a reputable shop which I would have done if I was patient enough to wait for the next appointment slot. I just did them myself. Like someone said earlier, it's like LEGOs. Really, really frustrating LEGOs.