[algabr]

Can anyone confirm that's safe to use +3 psi with 91 RON or 87 AKI gas?

The guy from BMS told me I could get engine knock.. But I've already bought the JB1 and really felt difference using it..

[GL888]

Originally Posted by David328M-Sport

I'm running 98RON (Shell V-Power) with standard +3psi boost with S1. I intend on keeping it this way until S2 is upgraded to non beta. Plenty of extra boost for me at this time.

Hi Mate,

Would you suggest +4 if i am using Vortex 98 or stick to +3, or should i scrap Vortex for Shell V power and use 3 or 4?

I know the power is marginally more but i'm think it may be just 7hp but that still brings the value from stock much higher.

Thanks

[David328M-Sport]

Originally Posted by GL888

Hi Mate,

Would you suggest +4 if i am using Vortex 98 or stick to +3, or should i scrap Vortex for Shell V power and use 3 or 4?

I know the power is marginally more but i'm think it may be just 7hp but that still brings the value from stock much higher.

Thanks

Yeah Mate,

I play it safe, or as safe as it can be whilst the car is under warranty. Stick with Stage 1 default @ +3psi at least until your car is out of warranty. Then experiment if you wish. That's what I may do in a couple of years.

For the time being, S1 is a very good improvement over stock anyway. If you're running an AT car, and want a little extra response, pop it in DS mode or Sport mode. My 328i with S1 is pretty wild in the top mode.

I've just been using Shell's highest non ethanol octane fuel in my cars for decades, so I'm used to it - mainly 98RON. The best way to determine of one brand of fuel is better than the other at an equal RON rating for your car and circumstances, is to run the car with perhaps 2 or even 3 tankfuls of one brand, then change it to the other. See if your butt dyno feels any difference in performance or economy or whatever you require.

Just remember to remove the JB for servicing at the dealer whilst the car is under warranty.

Cheers

[GL888]

Originally Posted by David328M-Sport

Yeah Mate,

I play it safe, or as safe as it can be whilst the car is under warranty. Stick with Stage 1 default @ +3psi at least until your car is out of warranty. Then experiment if you wish. That's what I may do in a couple of years.

For the time being, S1 is a very good improvement over stock anyway. If you're running an AT car, and want a little extra response, pop it in DS mode or Sport mode. My 328i with S1 is pretty wild in the top mode.

I've just been using Shell's highest non ethanol octane fuel in my cars for decades, so I'm used to it - mainly 98RON. The best way to determine of one brand of fuel is better than the other at an equal RON rating for your car and circumstances, is to run the car with perhaps 2 or even 3 tankfuls of one brand, then change it to the other. See if your butt dyno feels any difference in performance or economy or whatever you require.

Just remember to remove the JB for servicing at the dealer whilst the car is under warranty.

Cheers

I might just leave it the way it comes. The feedback overall seems to be the 3 gives sufficient enough gains.

Thanks

[gtman]

Iv’e Been running +4psi for the past 3 months you defiantly feel the deference.

[gtman]

power delivery seems smoother at +3psi the car pulls harder at +4psi.but honestly if you're planing on keeping your car for a few years i wouldn't go past +3psi with stage 1

[Kafkaesque328]

Interesting points re: octane. Ill double check with Terry @ BMS when I go to do the stage 1 tune but with only 91 octane available around here, looks like +3 PSI is what it will be

[bzubi]

Do you have to have the control box and harness connected to the various engine ports to change the mapping from +3 psi to +4 psi? Or can I have the USB cable hooked up to the control box and my PC and change mappings that way?

[GL888]

Originally Posted by bzubi

Do you have to have the control box and harness connected to the various engine ports to change the mapping from +3 psi to +4 psi? Or can I have the USB cable hooked up to the control box and my PC and change mappings that way?

Mate, its all done via the software, quite simple

[bzubi]

Originally Posted by GL888

Mate, its all done via the software, quite simple

Thank you for your reply; emailed Terry @ BMS and he said the tune needs to be installed to be powered up in order for the mappings to be changed.

[GL888]

Originally Posted by gtman

power delivery seems smoother at +3psi the car pulls harder at +4psi.but honestly if you're planing on keeping your car for a few years i wouldn't go past +3psi with stage 1

I'm sure you can drive at 4+ all day every and not WOT at every opportunity the engine wouldn't be under so much stress?

Just thinking if you've got access to RON 98 everywhere and 4+ is designed for it then what you've effectively done is given yourself at least 15% more power (based on stage 1 3+)

[vader1]

Just keep in mind that turbo chargers and superchargers have efficiency maps. When they exceed a certain point, they don't put out as much more power as they do excessive heat. Heat causes knock and engines go boom.

BMW is putting out a fairly high psi in stock form, with this relatively small turbo. While they always build in some safety margain for additional boost so that the cars are reliable from the factory, be careful how far you are trying to go.

If it is a tune from a respected source, and you can get good quality fuel, you may be able to go perhaps beyond 3 additional psi. But if you do not have a good understanding of knock, boost, and how the tune is working, you might be better off not pushing it, especially if you intend to track or beat on the car. Going too far could require larger intercoolers, oil coolers, larger injectors, water injection, or other modifications to be done safely depending on how far you go. You do not always know, unless you can see the tables, if a tune is adding proper fuel and retarding timing, or just telling an engine to add fuel and ignore the knock sensor.

There is a reason the seller of the product wants you to take a bunch of additional steps to add that extra pound.

I will eventually get an off the shelf stage one and leave it at that, but my $.02 is do not go beyond basic levels unless you know what you are doing and can get high octane fuel. NEVER trust an aftermarket manufacturer's claim on safety unless they back it up with a rock solid warranty. Modification is not without expensive risk.

[GL888]

Originally Posted by vader1

Just keep in mind that turbo chargers and superchargers have efficiency maps. When they exceed a certain point, they don't put out as much more power as they do excessive heat. Heat causes knock and engines go boom.

BMW is putting out a fairly high psi in stock form, with this relatively small turbo. While they always build in some safety margain for additional boost so that the cars are reliable from the factory, be careful how far you are trying to go.

If it is a tune from a respected source, and you can get good quality fuel, you may be able to go perhaps beyond 3 additional psi. But if you do not have a good understanding of knock, boost, and how the tune is working, you might be better off not pushing it, especially if you intend to track or beat on the car. Going too far could require larger intercoolers, oil coolers, larger injectors, water injection, or other modifications to be done safely depending on how far you go. You do not always know, unless you can see the tables, if a tune is adding proper fuel and retarding timing, or just telling an engine to add fuel and ignore the knock sensor.

There is a reason the seller of the product wants you to take a bunch of additional steps to add that extra pound.

I will eventually get an off the shelf stage one and leave it at that, but my $.02 is do not go beyond basic levels unless you know what you are doing and can get high octane fuel. NEVER trust an aftermarket manufacturer's claim on safety unless they back it up with a rock solid warranty. Modification is not without expensive risk.

Well said, and points taken.

[Marino BR]

Originally Posted by algabr

Can anyone confirm that's safe to use +3 psi with 91 RON or 87 AKI gas?

The guy from BMS told me I could get engine knock.. But I've already bought the JB1 and really felt difference using it..

Acording to Wikipedia the Brazilian fuel is like this.

Comum - 87 IAD / AKI (95 RON)
Premium (Sheel) - 93 IAD / AKI (98 RON)
Podium (BR Distribuidora) - 95 IAD / AKI (102 RON)

So if you use the Podium one i think you will not have problems.

[algabr]

Originally Posted by Marino BR

Acording to Wikipedia the Brazilian fuel is like this.

Comum - 87 IAD / AKI (95 RON)
Premium (Sheel) - 93 IAD / AKI (98 RON)
Podium (BR Distribuidora) - 95 IAD / AKI (102 RON)

So if you use the Podium one i think you will not have problems.

VLW marino hehe

I have another question, do you guys know which is the CEL error that shows up when installing a DP? cause I've been using one from AFE and after 3 months using it( I don't know if the guy that tunes up the cars did anything to erase the code) a CEL error showed up, I thought it could be the DP and went to the mechanic that installed it... The error seemed to be on learning wastegate... I couldn'd get the rest of it... nor the code that showed up..

Is this related to the Downpipe? What do I do?

[435iDriver]

Is this remapping also possible with the N55 JB stage 1?

[wolves]

Originally Posted by vader1

Just keep in mind that turbo chargers and superchargers have efficiency maps. When they exceed a certain point, they don't put out as much more power as they do excessive heat. Heat causes knock and engines go boom.

BMW is putting out a fairly high psi in stock form, with this relatively small turbo. While they always build in some safety margain for additional boost so that the cars are reliable from the factory, be careful how far you are trying to go.

If it is a tune from a respected source, and you can get good quality fuel, you may be able to go perhaps beyond 3 additional psi. But if you do not have a good understanding of knock, boost, and how the tune is working, you might be better off not pushing it, especially if you intend to track or beat on the car. Going too far could require larger intercoolers, oil coolers, larger injectors, water injection, or other modifications to be done safely depending on how far you go. You do not always know, unless you can see the tables, if a tune is adding proper fuel and retarding timing, or just telling an engine to add fuel and ignore the knock sensor.

There is a reason the seller of the product wants you to take a bunch of additional steps to add that extra pound.

I will eventually get an off the shelf stage one and leave it at that, but my $.02 is do not go beyond basic levels unless you know what you are doing and can get high octane fuel. NEVER trust an aftermarket manufacturer's claim on safety unless they back it up with a rock solid warranty. Modification is not without expensive risk.

Starts clapping.