[Heimdall]

Originally Posted by thenew3

When you say OEM tints on the back, do you mean door windows or sunroof?

I'm not going for a dark look or a front/rear window match.
I just want the max heat rejection without going too dark (my night vision isn't great).

So far I plan to do the following (similar to past 4 cars)

FormulaOne Pinnacle 50% on all side and rear/trunk windows.
FormulaOne Air 80% on windshield.
FormulaOne Pinnacle 5% (may change) on both sunroofs.

We don't have many reputable tint shops near us. The one I've been going to for the past 10 years has a good reputation and does a good job. This will be my 6th vehicle that I'm taking to them.
They do mostly FormulaOne (they are a select shop) but also do Huper Optik as well. I had Huper Optik installed on one vehicle and had issues with it getting blurry after a few years and had to get it replaced. I didn't notice too much difference in heat rejection between huper optik and formulaone ceramic tints.

I meant the doors to test out the shade and if it's ok with your family.

You seem to be on the right track with the film, llumar is a well known film making company. I wouldn't do Huper Optik, it's simply over rated and over priced.

As for the shades and matching that's a personal preference.

Don't forget to share the end product pictures once it's completed.

Good luck

[sbkim]

Just had my two front windows tinted with 35% ceramic. I can't recall the brand but I think he used Nano-Ceramic IRX (Llumar) but didn't confirm. It's been about a week and hazing is noticeable with sun shining through. I think it's called Low Angle Hazing. May be it's just cheap film that's making it worse or is it installation problem?

Thanks

[Heimdall]

Originally Posted by sbkim

Just had my two front windows tinted with 35% ceramic. I can't recall the brand but I think he used Nano-Ceramic IRX (Llumar) but didn't confirm. It's been about a week and hazing is noticeable with sun shining through. I think it's called Low Angle Hazing. May be it's just cheap film that's making it worse or is it installation problem?

Thanks

It's neither cheap film nor installation
It's simply the technology all ceramic films will give that effect. The severity is dependent on the shade and brand. The darker the shade the more visible the effect.

The best I've personally tested for a mix of performance in heat rejection and visibility is xpel XR black.
Go through the posts in this thread you'll see my photos and comments

[MomoM3]

Originally Posted by Kruppa

I am insanely OCD about this as I'm sure you know from past BMW vehicles on this forum. My first step is always getting the stock windows measured at a local inspection station, etc. so you know the baseline you're working with and can do math from there.

Of course there is even variation in rolls of film - a company can calls it's tint 20% but the VLT is really 18% but one roll vs another may be 17% vs 19%. Of course you can't control that and it wouldn't be noticeable to the human eye likely but in case you're wondering why the end result doesn't meter exactly what you thought it's good to know.

If you're keeping it completely stock in rears then yes 15% will likely be the best match. It will still look a little lighter than rear in very direct sunlight but 90% of the time it's perfect. I've seen 10% on the front with stock rear and IMO it looks weird if the front is even a little darker than rear, I'd rather go the other way slightly.

If BMW SUVs continue to use similar glass the best two matches I've found for color etc are Formula One Pinnacle and Xpel Prime XR.

I always go over the rear windows with ~80% tint so the math gets even more fun. Let us know what you end up with! Our X7 is arriving later this week, woohoo!

If I do 15% front drivers/passenger windows and the stock rears are 20%, what tint % would I need in the back to match the fronts' 15%? My options are 30, 35, 40, and 50%

[Kruppa]

Originally Posted by MomoM3

If I do 15% front drivers/passenger windows and the stock rears are 20%, what tint % would I need in the back to match the fronts' 15%? My options are 30, 35, 40, and 50%

Not an exact science since VLT can vary by roll but let's ignore that. It's just basic multiplication/division. Front stock is ~70% so if you add 15% that is 70%*15% = 10.5%. If the stock rears are 20% then the math is 10.5%/20% = 52.5%. So your closest option would be 50%. Again, keep in mind even if you could get the front and rears to meter the exact same number the fronts will look lighter most of the time due to sunlight coming in the front windshield.

[MomoM3]

Originally Posted by Kruppa

Not an exact science since VLT can vary by roll but let's ignore that. It's just basic multiplication/division. Front stock is ~70% so if you add 15% that is 70%*15% = 10.5%. If the stock rears are 20% then the math is 10.5%/20% = 52.5%. So your closest option would be 50%. Again, keep in mind even if you could get the front and rears to meter the exact same number the fronts will look lighter most of the time due to sunlight coming in the front windshield.

I read your post too late and messed up royally! I told them to go 35% tint in the rear on top of the 20% OEM for some stupid reason and the VLT came back at freaking 8%! Fronts stayed at 15% on the nose.

Now 8% rears + 15% front side windows (no windshield) VLT def looks off and I should have totally gone 40% tint in the rear to get it down to ~13%.

IDK if I'm splitting hairs here but despite the money I already spent, I'm already considering having them re-do the back of the car to the 40% tint to get it closer. Am I nuts? I left to go visit my parents and wasn't there to pester as they install like I normally do.

[Eternalthinker]

Originally Posted by MomoM3

I read your post too late and messed up royally! I told them to go 35% tint in the rear on top of the 20% OEM for some stupid reason and the VLT came back at freaking 8%! Fronts stayed at 15% on the nose.

Now 8% rears + 15% front side windows (no windshield) VLT def looks off and I should have totally gone 40% tint in the rear to get it down to ~13%.

IDK if I'm splitting hairs here but despite the money I already spent, I'm already considering having them re-do the back of the car to the 40% tint to get it closer. Am I nuts? I left to go visit my parents and wasn't there to pester as they install like I normally do.

That sure sucks to hear. I think that the shop should have gone through with you and explained more in depth. When I dropped my X7 off at the shop for a full ppf and tint, they spent 20 minutes with me on the various tint on the market and actually pulled out a device that analyzes the performance of the tint brands. The manager showed me the heat rejection from this device from brands such as Huper, 3M, Xpel, and a few others and the one that came out on top was Photosync. I was also advised on how tint affects visibility for the pre-tinted glasses on our cars and made recommendations based on these factors.

I think in your case, they should at the very least give you a break of some sort to redo it.

[Kruppa]

Originally Posted by MomoM3

I read your post too late and messed up royally! I told them to go 35% tint in the rear on top of the 20% OEM for some stupid reason and the VLT came back at freaking 8%! Fronts stayed at 15% on the nose.

Now 8% rears + 15% front side windows (no windshield) VLT def looks off and I should have totally gone 40% tint in the rear to get it down to ~13%.

IDK if I'm splitting hairs here but despite the money I already spent, I'm already considering having them re-do the back of the car to the 40% tint to get it closer. Am I nuts? I left to go visit my parents and wasn't there to pester as they install like I normally do.

Sorry you're not happy with it, but I agree with the other reply that at a minimum you should get a nice discount if you would like the same shop to re-do. When you chat with them definitely do the compliment sandwich - install job was great, i wish we had chatted more about matching shades and I'm not happy with the look, again I'm glad I went with you and look forward to getting this right.

Based on the math I explained your numbers directionally make sense - a little off due to possible things like 1) estimate on stock VLT vs using an actual machine to measure 2) brands will call something 15 but it may be 16%, 17%, 18% etc. 3) variability by roll. But again 50% will be the best true match for you. The happiest I've ever been with a window tint job was with my X5M - the front metered about 4% darker than the rears. In bright sunlight the front still looked lighter but in most cases I was very happy. Let us know what you end up deciding!

[MomoM3]

Originally Posted by Eternalthinker

That sure sucks to hear. I think that the shop should have gone through with you and explained more in depth. When I dropped my X7 off at the shop for a full ppf and tint, they spent 20 minutes with me on the various tint on the market and actually pulled out a device that analyzes the performance of the tint brands. The manager showed me the heat rejection from this device from brands such as Huper, 3M, Xpel, and a few others and the one that came out on top was Photosync. I was also advised on how tint affects visibility for the pre-tinted glasses on our cars and made recommendations based on these factors.

I think in your case, they should at the very least give you a break of some sort to redo it.

I ok'ed the rear film and left which I should not have done, they usually walk me through it but stupidly skipped that this time after 20 years of going to the same spot.

Originally Posted by Kruppa

Sorry you're not happy with it, but I agree with the other reply that at a minimum you should get a nice discount if you would like the same shop to re-do. When you chat with them definitely do the compliment sandwich - install job was great, i wish we had chatted more about matching shades and I'm not happy with the look, again I'm glad I went with you and look forward to getting this right.

Based on the math I explained your numbers directionally make sense - a little off due to possible things like 1) estimate on stock VLT vs using an actual machine to measure 2) brands will call something 15 but it may be 16%, 17%, 18% etc. 3) variability by roll. But again 50% will be the best true match for you. The happiest I've ever been with a window tint job was with my X5M - the front metered about 4% darker than the rears. In bright sunlight the front still looked lighter but in most cases I was very happy. Let us know what you end up deciding!

Chatted with the installer this morning and he says he can certainly re-do the back windows but was really urging me to give it a few more days to think on it. He says it will be a major pain to get the film glue off and is also concerned about possibly damaging the rear window defrost. Also said it wouldn't matter if he ripped it off today or next week, will still be difficult but will of course do it.

I think I still want to re-do it to help my OCD but should I be concerned about damaging the rear defrost now?

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by MomoM3

I ok'ed the rear film and left which I should not have done, they usually walk me through it but stupidly skipped that this time after 20 years of going to the same spot.

Chatted with the installer this morning and he says he can certainly re-do the back windows but was really urging me to give it a few more days to think on it. He says it will be a major pain to get the film glue off and is also concerned about possibly damaging the rear window defrost. Also said it wouldn't matter if he ripped it off today or next week, will still be difficult but will of course do it.

I think I still want to re-do it to help my OCD but should I be concerned about damaging the rear defrost now?

Damaging the rear defrost lines in the glass is a legit concern. But any tint shop worth their salt should be able to do it - but to do it right, it will take time (and you don't want them to rush). And since time is money, you should not expect too big of a discount for the redo. Especially since you have admitted that you rushed to leave the shop, which means you did contribute some to the situation you are in now.

Personally, I would take the advice of the shop and let it sink in for a bit. I definitely understand the OCD concern - I have been there for other things with my cars over the years. But sometimes even when dealing with my OCD, the juice is not worth the squeeze...

[Kruppa]

Originally Posted by jmciver

Damaging the rear defrost lines in the glass is a legit concern. But any tint shop worth their salt should be able to do it - but to do it right, it will take time (and you don't want them to rush). And since time is money, you should not expect too big of a discount for the redo. Especially since you have admitted that you rushed to leave the shop, which means you did contribute some to the situation you are in now.

Personally, I would take the advice of the shop and let it sink in for a bit. I definitely understand the OCD concern - I have been there for other things with my cars over the years. But sometimes even when dealing with my OCD, the juice is not worth the squeeze...

I agree, personal decision. If you're OCD and you get the shade right you will then be dealing with the highly likely scenario of small pieces of glue they missed after removing current tint. Which is the lesser of two evils for you. It would be shade for me. Small imperfections drive you crazy at first but fade with time at least for me.

I've also been tinting vehicles for decades and had so many shops warn about rear defroster line damage...then I found the shop I will never stray from who has done it multiple times with absolutely zero issue. It can absolutely be done safely - it's a matter of their willingness to take time to do it properly which will be reflected in the price. They should also factor in that you're a multiple repeat customer who will continue to come in the future. Any good business person will take that into account.

[Eternalthinker]

Originally Posted by MomoM3

I ok'ed the rear film and left which I should not have done, they usually walk me through it but stupidly skipped that this time after 20 years of going to the same spot.



Chatted with the installer this morning and he says he can certainly re-do the back windows but was really urging me to give it a few more days to think on it. He says it will be a major pain to get the film glue off and is also concerned about possibly damaging the rear window defrost. Also said it wouldn't matter if he ripped it off today or next week, will still be difficult but will of course do it.

I think I still want to re-do it to help my OCD but should I be concerned about damaging the rear defrost now?

Personally I would get it redone because this is like a virus...will eat at you everytime you look at your car. Just make sure that the shop can say definitively it won't strip the rear defroster. I've never had tint removed so I can't say what the risks are.

[cavalierx7]

Just had a look at the glass that is "tinted" from the factory. I cannot seem to find where it indicates it's tint level, the front driver window indicates <70%, but nothing on the back ones. Looking to get my tint done, with the xpel recommendation of 50% in the back possibly. I'll probably just have them measure it, but wanted to be locked in before i went. *2021 X7

[djbonsu]

Originally Posted by cavalierx7

Just had a look at the glass that is "tinted" from the factory. I cannot seem to find where it indicates it's tint level, the front driver window indicates <70%, but nothing on the back ones. Looking to get my tint done, with the xpel recommendation of 50% in the back possibly. I'll probably just have them measure it, but wanted to be locked in before i went. *2021 X7

I would just have the tint shop measure/meter the rear windows with factory tint to obtain a good match front to back depending on how dark you want to go. For example, Like some have said in this thread, 20% on the front windows meters a little more than 20% (more like 24% once metered) hence 15% (more like 18% once metered) tint on the front two glass matches the rears better than that of 20%. My tint shop metered the rear glass and we both agreed to go 15% on front two glass to obtain the best match. Once I add the windshield tint later, the overall look will probably be much darker.

[iconoclast]

Originally Posted by cavalierx7

I cannot seem to find where it indicates it's tint level,

Your tint shop will have to meter it and match it to the films they carry. Remember to compensate for the extra light coming in off the windshield.

[$hah$]

My tint shop suggested XPEL XR Ceramic 15% for the 2 front windows (driver and passenger) as the closest match to the factory tints in the back. Has anyone used that and any pics? What brand/type has been the best match for others?