01-08-2020, 09:24 PM | #23 | |
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1. Remove both front chassis reinforcement bars to have better access to the sensors. 2. Locate the sensors, they are on the bottom side of the intercooler. One on each side. 3. Unclip the oem sensor by sliding back the locking tab then press to unlock the clip then pull out. 4. Connect the OEM connector (Male) to Harness A or B (in this engine it doesn't matter) female connector then the Harness male back to the sensor on the intercooler. Repeat on the other side. Note: Driver side is a bit hard, you may need to remove the air intake snorkle partially or fully. They are just clip on. I hope this help.
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01-09-2020, 05:06 AM | #24 |
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This scares me a bit....
(But thanks, very helpful). |
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r33_RGSport12982.00 |
01-11-2020, 03:26 PM | #25 |
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Well I installed the Racechip RS. You weren’t kidding it was tough to get to some of those connections jeez. A few questions:
- I can’t get it to show itself on Bluetooth even though I got the Bluetooth version with the app. - the green light on the unit is always on—even when the vehicle is shut off..... - the main unit looked a little scuffed up when I got it, almost like it was a return or something - my little orange check engine symbol in my dash is on. I think that’s normal and it’ll go away in a few hundred miles driving or something? (I assume if it were completely improperly connected the car wouldn’t run??). I think I’ve noticed a little more power but it’s honestly a little hard to tell. Whole thing makes me nervous! |
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01-11-2020, 06:38 PM | #26 |
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also noticed my remote start isn’t working.
I decided to unplug the Racechip from the end of the harness and plug in the dummy end plug, so that little green light doesn’t stay on all night have me worrying about this thing draining battery. Remote start still not working but I’m guessing that’s either the check engine light disabling it or something about leaving the harness plugged in without the racechip. Slowly starting to regret this “easy” “upgrade” |
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01-11-2020, 07:02 PM | #27 | |
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01-11-2020, 07:57 PM | #29 |
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I’m going on a long drive tomorrow and thinking I’ll unplug it and just leave the dummy plug in for now until I get this all sorted out. I would just unplug everything but it’s a huge pain in the rear to find and make these connections. I’d need to call my brother in law back to have him make the connections because I can’t seem to reach any of it.
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01-11-2020, 07:58 PM | #30 | |
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If you buy from me, I will be able to look it up. The Green Light will turn off when the car goes to sleep. When you turn off the car, there are still power going around the car for around 20-30 minutes. If you get it shipped from Germany, sometime it slides around the packaging and got scuffed up. It happened to me couple times. Which little orange light is it? Post a picture so I can help you. There are many orange light on the dash. Such as DSC OFF, Hood is Open, etc.
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01-11-2020, 08:00 PM | #31 | |
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Did you let the car to sleep before you unplug the sensors? If you didn't let the car sleep during installation, you may trigger CEL.
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01-12-2020, 05:07 AM | #32 | |
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And no, I didn’t let the car go to sleep before unplugging the sensors. Sounds like that is the issue maybe. I thought once you locked the car and everything shut off it was “asleep.” Didn’t realize you have to wait 30 minutes. They should have instructions that tell you all this. The instructions are horrible. Without your help no way I could have installed it, as the instructions come with pictures or a Volkswagen engine bay... |
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r33_RGSport12982.00 |
01-12-2020, 05:17 AM | #34 |
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It usually resets on its own after several cycles. I wouldn’t use an OBII tool to manually reset it in case it is on for something totally unrelated to installing the Racechip without fully powering down or disconnecting the battery first. If that was what triggered it then it should reset on its own.
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r33_RGSport12982.00 |
01-12-2020, 05:33 AM | #35 | |
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So in your estimation sounds like there's nothing terribly wrong here, regarding the green light on the racechip remaining on, and the check engine light? Ok for me to assume the car wouldn't run fine, as it has been, if there were a real problem here (for example, if one of the sensors remained disconnected)? Thanks again.
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01-12-2020, 06:52 AM | #36 |
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Confirmed the green light went off after about 20 mins. Thanks for the tip — makes me feel more confident that it’s properly connected.
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01-12-2020, 06:57 AM | #37 |
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I wonder if there’s a way to reset the RaceChip RS, to force it to start searching for a Bluetooth connection again. Not to erase it entirely to delete the program though. I suppose I’ll find out if I ever hear back from RaceChip...
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01-12-2020, 09:16 AM | #38 | |
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Seems like it that the module is not registered to the backend database properly. Nothing to reset on the module itself. Everything is on the backend server. If it purchased from me, I have access to all of the unit and I can fix it right away. But not if it direct from RaceChip.
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01-12-2020, 10:51 AM | #39 | |
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01-12-2020, 12:09 PM | #41 |
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01-13-2020, 09:32 AM | #42 | |
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On the RS with App, there is not manual adjustment on the module. But, by default, brand new out of the box, it is on Map 4. Which have a mild gain already.
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01-14-2020, 05:23 AM | #43 |
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Well, RaceChip customer service has been less than great. Slow to respond, not very good communication. Sounds like my unit isn't working, so I have to unplug it and ship it back to Germany.
I recommend you buy from r33_RGSport instead -- he's been very helpful! (r33_RGSport, I sent you a PM!)
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01-14-2020, 09:34 AM | #44 | |
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