[335cabrioking]

After leaving my 2011 335i e93 convertible parked outside during several weeks of off and on heavy rain storms, my Logic7 amp fried due to water leaking into the trunk. I haven't tried replacing the L7 amplifier yet.

It's probably been fried for 1-2 months as of now, with no sound/chimes of any sort. I never had the SOS warning appear on the dash. I recently noticed that when I go to access my Bluetooth settings in iDrive, it will say "Please Wait' indefinitely. My phone will not connect to the system via Bluetooth either. I'm pretty sure my Bluetooth used to still function normally (connecting, pairing, adding/deleting devices, etc) after I lost functioning audio, but I could be mistaken.

My question is: will replacing the Logic 7 amplifier in the trunk restore Bluetooth functionality? Or could the Bluetooth/telephone module have been fried as well from the water leak?

From my understanding, the Logic7 amplifier is run through a MOST fiber optic loop, so my theory is that now that the amp is completely fried (no more static sounds like I was initially hearing after losing audio), it could have disrupted the fiber optic loop and therefore disabled the Bluetooth/telephone modules' functionality.

I'm hoping that my theory is correct, so that once I replace the L7 amplifier after the rain season ends, everything should be hopefully working again normally. Versus needing to also replace the module for Bluetooth and possibly other parts as well.

Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I want to add that after losing functioning audio, my speakers were making pretty loud static sounds and random noise tones. But it's been at least a month now of total silence from the entire sound system. I'm thinking that the Bluetooth functionality may have gone out around the time that the static/tones finally stopped completely, signaling the final failure of the amp.

[sam9116]

I had degrading bluetooth connection issues before. It is not a complete fail of the system so it will not show up as an error on the dash. If you scan with INPA it will just show a high number of bluetooth connection failed codes on the bluetooth module, sometimes the bluetooth module will not even respond if you scan it. But you will need a replacement module.

If you are concerned about water corroding your bluetooth module, lift up the trunk liner and do a visual inspection, you should see water stains on the module itself.

MOST fiber optic loop only carries sound (kinda like a home theatre system), it has no impact on bluetooth connectivity

also keep in mind, your L7 Amplifier and Bluetooth modules needs to be coded after replacement.

[ctuna]

When you break the Most Bus line everything on the Most bus dies.
And the bluetooth comes from the modules in the trunk that are part
of the Most Bus in 90 percent of the cars.
There are a few Pro Head units that have built in bluetooth I don't
know how it effects them .
In the Us we never got Head Units with built in Bluetooth to my knowledge.
You could put and optical jumper in at the Logic 7 amp you won't get sound
but it will restore the Most Bus loop for everything else.

[335cabrioking]

Originally Posted by ctuna

When you break the Most Bus line everything on the Most bus dies.
And the bluetooth comes from the modules in the trunk that are part
of the Most Bus in 90 percent of the cars.
There are a few Pro Head units that have built in bluetooth I don't
know how it effects them .
In the Us we never got Head Units with built in Bluetooth to my knowledge.
You could put and optical jumper in at the Logic 7 amp you won't get sound
but it will restore the Most Bus loop for everything else.

So my theory could be correct, where if I replace the dead Logic7 amp with a working one, my Bluetooth functionality could be restored without needing to replace the Bluetooth module in the trunk? My car is a US model as well so I probably have the Bluetooth module in the trunk.

Also, do you happen to know if it's possible to replace the dead Logic7 amp with a working used L7 amp from an older e9x car? I've heard both yes and no when reading on other threads. And some people say you have to code the replacement L7 amp. If that's the case, I'm wondering if my indy could do it or if it would have to be coded only at a BMW dealership.

I've found some reasonably priced used L7 amps from various other BMW models on OfferUp and eBay so it'd be nice to be able to use of those if I can't find a used unit with the exact same part number as my current one.

[ctuna]

Firmware updates are sometimes required for the L7 amp .
Look on the coding subforum's for how to's

[Podunk]

Originally Posted by 335cabrioking

So my theory could be correct, where if I replace the dead Logic7 amp with a working one, my Bluetooth functionality could be restored without needing to replace the Bluetooth module in the trunk? My car is a US model as well so I probably have the Bluetooth module in the trunk.

Also, do you happen to know if it's possible to replace the dead Logic7 amp with a working used L7 amp from an older e9x car? I've heard both yes and no when reading on other threads. And some people say you have to code the replacement L7 amp. If that's the case, I'm wondering if my indy could do it or if it would have to be coded only at a BMW dealership.

I've found some reasonably priced used L7 amps from various other BMW models on OfferUp and eBay so it'd be nice to be able to use of those if I can't find a used unit with the exact same part number as my current one.

Having a 2008 model that had a similar issue of no sound, so long as it is the same model/style of amplifier it should work, for instance, mine was a Harman and Becker L7 HS7514, 7506 will also work, as well as one other model type. ( i fixed my no sound issue with an Ebay L7 Top DSP HiFi amp)

the MOST Bus seriable fiber signal can become corrupted from the L7 amplifier if it is malfunctioning, you can buy a fiber loop from amazon to eliminate the L7 amp as a cause for the failed BT connection attempts. they are about 12+ for the loop, and may require removing the plastic quick connect part of the connector end to work as they seem to be for later model BMW, and or Mercedes instead of BMW. ( basically all the straight square sections of plastic will need removed, leave the two fiber prongs in the middle alone)

You can use BimmerGeeks Protools application on your smart phone to code the radio system, the master license is is around 140-160 USD, it can also be used to read CEL codes, and other systems as well. but will require a INPA K+ DCAN cable, or their bluetooth, or MHD Wifi enabled OBD II device.

[GSB]

Originally Posted by 335cabrioking

So my theory could be correct, where if I replace the dead Logic7 amp with a working one, my Bluetooth functionality could be restored without needing to replace the Bluetooth module in the trunk? My car is a US model as well so I probably have the Bluetooth module in the trunk.

Also, do you happen to know if it's possible to replace the dead Logic7 amp with a working used L7 amp from an older e9x car? I've heard both yes and no when reading on other threads. And some people say you have to code the replacement L7 amp. If that's the case, I'm wondering if my indy could do it or if it would have to be coded only at a BMW dealership.

I've found some reasonably priced used L7 amps from various other BMW models on OfferUp and eBay so it'd be nice to be able to use of those if I can't find a used unit with the exact same part number as my current one.

Replacing the amp (and coding it if necessary) will hopefully restore sound and Bluetooth, but if your trunk area filled with water, it's also possible that your Bluetooth module has drowned. In that case, replacing the amp may not fix the Bluetooth problems, and you might still have a locked-up fiber-optic MOST loop - again with no sound.

Here's an alternative to replacing the amp... At this point, you have nothing to lose, so you could try resurrecting your amp. It's basically free and doesn't require coding. Definitely worth a shot: DIY: How to Save Your Electronics After Water Infiltration or Contamination

[ctuna]

putting in a most jumper in at the amp and looking at what is says on
Head unit may tell you if the problem is isolated to the the Amp.

Logic 7
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432
https://www.bavlogic.com/?p=3729
https://www.bavlogic.com/?tag=loop
http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837
http://www.bmwgm5.com/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt
https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
Most
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727663
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222
https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+...VCkMqy2aCK09M:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19256760
https://www.teacremotes.com/bmwgm5/
Diagnostic Manuals Inpa/Ista D
https://bimmerprofs.com/diagnostics-inpa-part-1/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7x8H3pN8h1fMuF
https://carmod.ru/files/icom/istad_en.pdf
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-P-actually-do
primary links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...1&d=1590283589
https://www.nathansbmwworkshop.com/b...or-dean-videos

[Podunk]

so uh... one thing, my amp finally showed up on the all system scan from protools, i changed the VIN to match the car, but found out something, factory coding it to the e90 chassis.. i lost ALL sound. now i checked what it was at for value prior and it was an E60 5 series, coded chassis back to E60, Boom sound came back. so with that said, if you replace it and the sound works, just change VIN on it, don't change chassis.

[GSB]

Originally Posted by Podunk

so uh... one thing, my amp finally showed up on the all system scan from protools, i changed the VIN to match the car, but found out something, factory coding it to the e90 chassis.. i lost ALL sound. now i checked what it was at for value prior and it was an E60 5 series, coded chassis back to E60, Boom sound came back. so with that said, if you replace it and the sound works, just change VIN on it, don't change chassis.

Whoa! That's weird. Thanks for sharing!