12-04-2020, 11:38 PM | #89 | |
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Drives: F30 328i Sport - Black Saphire
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Melbourne
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12-09-2020, 05:22 PM | #90 | |
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01-26-2021, 07:41 PM | #92 |
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If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it. I did this DIY. 2014 f30. I changed the connector and the bulb holder. Routed the ground cable directly to the metal piece. Brake light functions just fine. I can’t get the turn signal to work?? I don’t know what it could be?? Bulbs and holder are brand new. No issues with the brake light, but the turn signal still won’t work... any help or suggestions?? This is driving me crazy! Thank you
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01-30-2021, 05:49 PM | #94 |
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If the taillight and brake light work, could the electronic module or fuse still be out?? Or can I eliminate that if the other lights work. All the lights except the turn signal work. The bulb is new as well. I’m stumped. I may try to redo the connections on the connector again, but they look fine. I don’t know what else it could be. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
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06-09-2021, 12:55 PM | #97 |
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I had the same issue on left rear brake light as described in this thread: connector for ground completely melted so I cut brown wire close to the connector then attached a larger wire to it, which I ran through socket housing and attached to metal ground plate. I followed the quick fix for this problem and the issue was resolved...or so I thought.
The brake light still continues to slowly cook over time, the bulb base gets melted and the brake bulb socket contact is now burnt. I'm guessing the bulbs draw too much current and the socket fixture can't handle it, hence the melting and then the open circuit. If I clean the socket and replace the bulb, then it will just melt the new bulb base in a year or so. Is there anything I'm missing here besides a design flaw? How would I fix this permanently? Ty in advance for help. |
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06-09-2021, 01:45 PM | #98 |
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Switch to LED bulbs, they draw 1/10 the current that incandescent do. You will need to code them with Bimmercode or ESys. It looks like you've got corrosion too. Clean it with CRC Contact Cleaner, then apply dielectric grease to the bulb base when you install it. I replaced all my bulbs with LED, not only to reduce current draw but also because they're brighter and react faster.
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06-14-2021, 12:25 PM | #99 | |
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My car could use some coding like updating maps, coding front LEDs and potentially rear LEDs. It's been a few years since I coded the car last and I just been putting it off. I know coding is not hard but I'd have to re-learn the process, gather all the latest info, re-arm Esys...need to find the motivation. |
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06-14-2021, 03:50 PM | #100 |
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My F34 uses these:
Brake https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Backup https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Turn https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A77TT7U /ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But yours may be different, BMW is weird that way. It's best to make sure what incandescent bulbs yours uses and then find LEDs that match the stock bases. |
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03-07-2023, 02:53 PM | #102 |
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To it may concern:
I have read few comments and one of the have been the left rear breake/signal light malfunction. Yes iam facing the same problem. It appears that it is the manufacturer issue but BMW does not want to be taking any responsibility. Can anyone help me by giving me an advice on these frequent issues with a lot of cars of BMW. First time owning a BMW but I only have had bad experience with BMW product/customer service with is all bad taste. |
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