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      10-06-2014, 12:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by M4isKing View Post
sometimes I use the sport setting..so this time sport+ is actually useful? (although in a manual car, I would hate that autoblipping).
If you don't want auto blipping, then Sport+ is the only way to go.

Auto rev match is active in Efficient and Sport modes but deactivated in Sport+.

And yes, Sport+ is just perfect on the F8X IMO.
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      10-06-2014, 01:23 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by CanAutM3
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Originally Posted by M4isKing View Post
sometimes I use the sport setting..so this time sport+ is actually useful? (although in a manual car, I would hate that autoblipping).
If you don't want auto blipping, then Sport+ is the only way to go.

Auto rev match is active in Efficient and Sport modes but deactivated in Sport+.

And yes, Sport+ is just perfect on the F8X IMO.
ahh good to hear. thanks for the write up!
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      10-06-2014, 01:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
As an instructor, I often observe that a bad position of the right foot to be the culprit of jerky throttle inputs by students. The throttle pedal on BMWs is hinged at the bottom, which is a great feature. The heel of the right foot should rest against the hinge and the whole foot should be used to depress the pedal. This way you can use you right heel to brace yourself and have good control over the pedal. The mistake is to use only the toes to press in the middle of the throttle pedal. This way a small movement of the foot translates in a big throttle change. Further, by doing so, the toes need to slip up and down on the pedal as it moves and the friction can cause jerkiness.
I'm much more novice, but this sounds very valuable to me. Like advice I don't even have to try, but already know it's correct. Thanks!
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      10-06-2014, 01:46 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
In rereading your review the only thing I question is how you can use more fuel than a E92 M3I was lucky to get 60 minutes of hard track time out of mine.But then to think about when I tracked by wife's old Mark V GTI it used a ton of fuel also.I guess that is the price of more horsepower & torque with a turbo engine.
haha, I laughed at that too. I reset my computer on my E92 once at Texas World Speedway. 6 MPG. And the F80 is worse? haha
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      10-06-2014, 02:33 PM   #27
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damn that sucks!!! such a long wait. in socal we have one season only. summer. lol. its October and it was 100F this weekend. sigh.
Keep rubbing that in and see what happens

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      10-06-2014, 03:18 PM   #28
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Nice write-up! What kind of lap times were you running?
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      10-06-2014, 03:47 PM   #29
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Hmmm…never thought about this thx for the advice.....going to pay more attention to it.. problem is old habits die hard!

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Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post

As an instructor, I often observe that a bad position of the right foot to be the culprit of jerky throttle inputs by students. The throttle pedal on BMWs is hinged at the bottom, which is a great feature. The heel of the right foot should rest against the hinge and the whole foot should be used to depress the pedal. This way you can use you right heel to brace yourself and have good control over the pedal. The mistake is to use only the toes to press in the middle of the throttle pedal. This way a small movement of the foot translates in a big throttle change. Further, by doing so, the toes need to slip up and down on the pedal as it moves and the friction can cause jerkiness.
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      10-06-2014, 03:53 PM   #30
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Nice write-up! What kind of lap times were you running?
It was an HPDE, so no lap times
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      10-06-2014, 04:29 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by FogCityM3
Hmmmnever thought about this thx for the advice.....going to pay more attention to it.. problem is old habits die hard!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post

As an instructor, I often observe that a bad position of the right foot to be the culprit of jerky throttle inputs by students. The throttle pedal on BMWs is hinged at the bottom, which is a great feature. The heel of the right foot should rest against the hinge and the whole foot should be used to depress the pedal. This way you can use you right heel to brace yourself and have good control over the pedal. The mistake is to use only the toes to press in the middle of the throttle pedal. This way a small movement of the foot translates in a big throttle change. Further, by doing so, the toes need to slip up and down on the pedal as it moves and the friction can cause jerkiness.
lock yourself in your seat properly and you wont need to brace with either foot.
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      10-06-2014, 04:56 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M4isKing View Post
lock yourself in your seat properly and you wont need to brace with either foot.
Maybe if you have a harness... or you aren't driving fast enough

In all seriousness, you can do certain things to lock yourself in with a 3 point belt but there are inherent limits with stock leather (not cloth) seats with a 3 point belt. To be secure enough to not need either foot for the occasional bracing, you really need a harness at a minimum. In my experience anyway.
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      10-06-2014, 05:04 PM   #33
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lock yourself in your seat properly and you wont need to brace with either foot.
I think you are totally missing the point that was made here...
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      10-06-2014, 06:31 PM   #34
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I think you are totally missing the point that was made here...
oops i didn't hit the "reply" button from my computer but I know what you mean, press down the same amount closer to the hinge, and its more throttle applied vs from the top.
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      10-06-2014, 07:42 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by M4isKing View Post
oops i didn't hit the "reply" button from my computer but I know what you mean, press down the same amount closer to the hinge, and its more throttle applied vs from the top.
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      10-06-2014, 09:36 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3
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Originally Posted by M4isKing View Post
oops i didn't hit the "reply" button from my computer but I know what you mean, press down the same amount closer to the hinge, and its more throttle applied vs from the top.
yep im always up top because my logic was: if you have a fulcrum, why would you leverage close to it when the optimal point is the furthest away from it?
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      10-08-2014, 10:27 AM   #37
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Do you trailer your car? I think I saw the old car at the Glen.

Congrats, excellent review. Really seems to be the best all around car.
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      10-08-2014, 06:45 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by StealYourFace View Post
Do you trailer your car? I think I saw the old car at the Glen.
I certainly don't.

One of the great pleasures of an M3/4 is to be able to drive to and from the track in great comfort .

Last time I was at the Glen was in September last year with COM SCC. Drove the M3 350 miles back and forth

Last edited by CanAutM3; 10-08-2014 at 08:09 PM..
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      10-08-2014, 09:24 PM   #39
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Great review! I have to make some time next season and run at LCMT. I'm getting too comfortable at CMP.
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      10-09-2014, 05:38 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Trakrzy View Post
Great review! I have to make some time next season and run at LCMT. I'm getting too comfortable at CMP.
CMP is a great track though, very technical . But it is a tire killer with that abrasive tarmac ...

You should really make time to come to LCMT, it is a fantastic track
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      10-09-2014, 08:17 AM   #41
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Nice review. Interesting that you found Sport+ to be perfect. I've tried it briefly and thought it was too twitchy to finesse mid-corner and on exit at the limit. Will have to give it a shot again, if I ever go back out in F80.
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Last edited by jbraslins; 10-09-2014 at 08:23 AM..
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      10-09-2014, 08:21 PM   #42
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...if I ever go back out in F80.
Why wouldn't you?
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      10-10-2014, 12:51 AM   #43
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Why wouldn't you?
I think I am done taking my DD to track for a while. Plan is to build Spec E46 this winter.
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      10-11-2014, 01:48 PM   #44
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Quote:
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Why wouldn't you?
I think I am done taking my DD to track for a while. Plan is to build Spec E46 this winter.
Good plan!
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