[bogdanmunt]

I just cleaned my intake valves over the weekend. 90k miles, never been cleaned. They were very dirty. I used 4 bottles of carb cleaner (all I had), gun cleaning brushes and a syringe with a hose to pull out as much carb cleaner out of the valves as possible.

At the end, some of the carbon deposits mixed with the cleaner were stuck at the bottom by the seal of the intake. Even when I rotated the engine, the gunk did not fall out into the cylinders. I assumed once the motor would start working, this stuff would get dislodged from the seal and it would fall down. (Is this incorrect?) It had the consistency of mud.

I reconnected everything carefully. Started up the engine. RPM shot up to 2000 (probably from some of the carb cleaner) and it sounded like a diesel engine for about 30 seconds, but after that it went to idle down to 600, lower than I've ever seen it. It also sounds a bit better at start up and idle.

The problem is.. as soon as I got off my driveway, I noticed the low RPMs (like 1500-2000) don't seem to have as much punch as they did before. The mid range is still strong, but the high end (5000+) also doesn't have much punch anymore.

Last night, I took the car for about 100 mile trip on the highway and revving it up on some country roads. On the flat, even highway on cruise control I was averaging better fuel economy than before - 31MPG (before cleaning it was only 27MPG).

When I drive the car normally, it just doesn't seem to have as much punch. If I go WOT - it definitely jerks you back still between 3000 to 5000 RPM.. but anything outside of those REVs doesn't have the same power as it did before.

Everything in the vehicle is stock.

Some things that I might have messed up:
- I was unable to get the charge pipe into the throttle body as a tight as it was originally. I just could not jam it up in there like it was before. I could see it was about 2mm short of where it was originally from the dirt marks.
- When pulling out the diverter valve hoses, they are connected 3 way to the intake manifold via plastic nipples. One of those tiny rubber hoses on it was very brittle and the cloth covering ripped a bit when I pulled on it. Looking closer, it did not look cracked. Not sure if it is leaking. I was going to replace it but I am afraid to break the nipples of the re-circulation hoses.

I have not received any boost leak codes though, or any error codes for that.

Any ideas?

[Fitz335]

You should have used a wet vac to suck all the debris out of there. I don't think it will do any damage honestly. You're probably leaking boost if you didn't manage to get the charge pipe back on correctly.

[Hierlevelz]

Use an exacto knife to split the vacuum hose where it connects at the nipple. Then you can peel it away and replace. If it is in fact brittle could be a source for a vacuum leak and should be replaced with silicone hoses.

[WilliamS]

have you reset adaptations? It could be running lean as its not adapted to the extra incoming air.

[bogdanmunt]

Originally Posted by WilliamS

have you reset adaptations? It could be running lean as its not adapted to the extra incoming air.

I just reset adaptations and it running like new again. YOU CALLED IT

The transmission was super buggy prior to resetting adaptations. In DS mode, it would hang at 5000 RPM and not shift. It would also sometimes shift at under 2500 RPM. It was very random and unpredictable. I thought it was because of a turbo leak or that I clogged the intake valves.

Now that I reset it, it seems to be running like new again. The transmission is shifting very timely. It was literally driving like a buick from '94 with a slipping clutch before this.

I unplugged the battery when I was spraying carb cleaner so I don't shock myself, so maybe this messed up the transmission settings. It wasn't anywhere near that bad before the cleaning. Or maybe the added power made it unpredictable for the transmission.

[WilliamS]

The 2 systems talk to each other so the engine and transmission are always comparing data to do what it best for that situation. Changing the airflow with the blasting may have changed load values that each one is seeing. No big deal its an easy mistake.

[vivanapoli806]

How do u reset adaptations ? I never did it before and recently installed cobb stage 1+. Can I benefit at all from resetting or no

[Pr335bob]

Originally Posted by WilliamS

The 2 systems talk to each other so the engine and transmission are always comparing data to do what it best for that situation. Changing the airflow with the blasting may have changed load values that each one is seeing. No big deal its an easy mistake.

Awesome info to know about resetting adaptations. Will be doing this soon.

[Bimmerprid3]

How do you guy do the reset adaption... Thanks

[tjobeid]

Here are the instructions to resting the Adaptive settings. When i did my intake valve cleaning the car would go down to 200 rpm and shut off every time if i left off the gas at idle. Had to keep gas going for it to stay on. Reset the adaptive settings fixed it.



1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter turns over. BMW: press start button – foot off brake - all idiot lights on.
3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position. BMW: All idiot lights on.
4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off position". BMW: foot off brake press start button - all idiot lights now off (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
5. Wait a full 2 minutes for a full electronic alignment. Don't remove the key.
6. Start engine, drive the car, notice the difference.

[Sgop335]

Some people say 30secs, Im confused...

I did this morning and will admit saw a difference in D:
1. key in, press start with foot off brake.
2. turn heat/ac off...(so doesnt start coolant air purge cycle)
3. press gas pedal all the way for 30secs
4. press start button off
5. take foot off gas pedal

start engine as usual and drive

Guys, donwload BMWLoggers or use the AccessPort, INPA, etc. to clear ALL DME adaptations. THEN do the the gas peddle trick. Please try and figure out exactly what each method clears in terms of adaptations as obviously "clearing adaptions" could mean a million different things on this platform.