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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Do I need the valve cover gasket replaced (and other repairs)?



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      11-16-2014, 11:22 PM   #1
skyview
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Exclamation Do I need the valve cover gasket replaced (and other repairs)?

Hi everyone, hope you can help me with this. I have a 2008 BMW 328xi which I just brought into the dealer to get an oil change. My extended warranty expired 3 months ago and just so conveniently after the oil change, the dealer tells me my car needs 3 repairs which they quote me $2,500 for (including tax). My question is, do I need the repairs or is the dealer trying to take me for a ride??? Want to get your opinions on whether the repairs are actually needed or not. I haven't had low engine oil warning lights ever, don't have to add oil in between oil changes, don't see any oil drips on my driveway, and the car is under 50k miles. Of course when I brought my car in to the same dealer 6 months ago for an oil change (and when it was under warranty) they never mentioned to me anything about these issues!

The three problem areas they stated were:
  1. Eccentric Shaft Sensor Seal Leaking - $950
  2. Valve Cover Gasket Leaking Oil - $930
  3. Oil Filter Housing Gasket Leaking Oil - $440

I took some pictures, but let me know if there's other ones that would be helpful. The oil filter housing looks fine to me and the valve cover I see grime around it but not sure whether it is an issue. I think to get to the eccentric shaft sensor I need to take off the engine cover but haven't had time to do that so no pictures of that yet. Would be great to hear your guys' thoughts. Thanks!
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      11-16-2014, 11:28 PM   #2
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the first 2 looks like normal seeping, you can leave those two alone and save the money to replace a water pump thats going to fail if it hasnt been replaced already. the 3 can be changed at any indy shop for less. they can sell you a coolant and oil change if they wanted. theres a DIY on here to change the oil filter housing gasket.

the 2 gaskets should run about 25

coolant 25
oil 50-80
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      11-16-2014, 11:33 PM   #3
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why not clean that shit off with super clean or brake parts cleaner, then see how bad it is leaking over the next few weeks. you mentioned not needing to add oil so it may be minor even though it looks like shit.

mine looked like that for awhile. no way i would pay that much to fix. maybe 200 total in parts and a sunday project.
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      11-16-2014, 11:53 PM   #4
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If the Eccentric Shaft sensor is an issue then you will have starting issues and eventually your car won't start unless it's replaced. Again not sure how bad it is. I had all of those replaced under 37K miles along with other things due to starting issues and rough idle. I agree with the poster about cleaning it up and seeing how it goes after that.
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      11-17-2014, 12:06 AM   #5
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I just replaced my Valvetronic gasket. I would take engine cover off and clean it up. Then try to see where it is leaking from. Dealer will replace all gaskets instead of just the problem. Also u have to take valve cover off to get to eccentric gasket. Oil filter is easy to get to and cheap. My 750$ Indy quote took me a day and a less than 30$ gasket.
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      11-17-2014, 12:19 AM   #6
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like i mentioned in another post, for 2500 i will drive there and fix all those, and i will buy you beer and bring you a woman. ill even mow your yard.
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      11-17-2014, 05:20 AM   #7
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Looks like shit. Feels like shit. Tastes like shit. Hm... I wonder...

Yes, the gaskets need replacing, but it's not an emergency. As someone else pointed out, you likely have a water pump in your future also. You won't see oil on your driveway because it collects in the underbelly pan. I don't blame you for being mad at the dealer for not pointing these issues out at your last oil change.

Those are all fairly straight-forward DIY projects if you can turn a wrench.
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      11-17-2014, 05:25 AM   #8
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If you do both the eccentric shaft sensor and valve cover gasket at the same time there should be very little cost. The parts cost for both these jobs is negligible, but removing the valve cover is a bit of a PITA. Once the valve cover is removed, changing shaft sensor is probably 5 minutes of work. The valve cover is removed and replaced for the gasket anyway. Tell them to do jobs 1 and 2 for $950.

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      11-17-2014, 06:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon View Post
If you do both the eccentric shaft sensor and valve cover gasket at the same time there should be very little cost. The parts cost for both these jobs is negligible, but removing the valve cover is a bit of a PITA. Once the valve cover is removed, changing shaft sensor is probably 5 minutes of work. The valve cover is removed and replaced for the gasket anyway. Tell them to do jobs 1 and 2 for $950.

Simon
This.... A valve cover job at a good New York indy should be 800-950. Tell them you want the sensor replaced too and you know its only a few minutes of when the valve cover is off. eccentric shaft sensor is a couple hundred as a part so I think 1300 all in is fair.
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      11-17-2014, 07:54 AM   #10
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So sexy.
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      11-17-2014, 09:08 PM   #11
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Thanks everyone for your help, really appreciate all the input. I'm going to try cleaning it up first as you all recommend and see how it is after that. Also going to take off the engine cover to examine the eccentric shaft sensor as it seems like that and the water pump are the more pressing issues.

About the eccentric shaft sensor, I did some reading on the symptoms and must say I haven't experienced any problems starting up and no rough idle. A year ago however, at red lights or whenever the car was stopped, the RPMs would suddenly drop really low, almost stalling, then jump back up, repeatedly, until the car started moving again. I took it in for repairs under warranty and dealer told me they replaced the ignition coils and cleaned the spark plugs. No mention of the eccentric shaft sensor and the problem never resurfaced again after that... but any possibility they're related?

Also, do you think the dealer actually takes off the engine cover to check the eccentric shaft sensor whenever they do an oil change or what's the deal there?
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      12-21-2014, 09:56 AM   #12
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If you do the valve cover yourself be careful. When I was removing mine one of the aluminum screws seized up and snapped. It was a pita to drill it out and keep the threads nice and intact.

And I don't see why they wouldn't remove the engine cover it takes 5 seconds.
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      12-21-2014, 03:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyview View Post
Thanks everyone for your help, really appreciate all the input. I'm going to try cleaning it up first as you all recommend and see how it is after that. Also going to take off the engine cover to examine the eccentric shaft sensor as it seems like that and the water pump are the more pressing issues.

About the eccentric shaft sensor, I did some reading on the symptoms and must say I haven't experienced any problems starting up and no rough idle. A year ago however, at red lights or whenever the car was stopped, the RPMs would suddenly drop really low, almost stalling, then jump back up, repeatedly, until the car started moving again. I took it in for repairs under warranty and dealer told me they replaced the ignition coils and cleaned the spark plugs. No mention of the eccentric shaft sensor and the problem never resurfaced again after that... but any possibility they're related?

Also, do you think the dealer actually takes off the engine cover to check the eccentric shaft sensor whenever they do an oil change or what's the deal there?
OP your SES light should come on if the eccentric shaft sensor sensor fails. If you have a N51 engine then the eccentric shaft sensor and the VCG will be covered under the SULEV warranty. Most dealers dont know about this warranty for the N51 engine but trust me the warranty covers these issues. The OFG you will have to pay for. What dealer did you take it to that told you about these issues ?
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      12-21-2014, 03:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike3000fl View Post
why not clean that shit off with super clean or brake parts cleaner, then see how bad it is leaking over the next few weeks. you mentioned not needing to add oil so it may be minor even though it looks like shit.

mine looked like that for awhile. no way i would pay that much to fix. maybe 200 total in parts and a sunday project.
+1...do this and monitor, most likely this is insignificant or nothing at all.

-Kevin
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      01-24-2015, 07:19 PM   #15
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Hi all, wanted to provide an update and happy to report it is good news!

First off, thank you to everyone for all your help, and in particular to redline2001 for pointing out the SULEV warranty!! That was a lifesaver. It prompted me to do more research into it. Also, thanks to nycbr I was able to speak to a different service advisor at Rallye who honored the warranty and covered the VCG and eccentric shaft sensor under warranty.

Thank you all once again... you guys are incredible!!!
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      01-24-2015, 07:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike3000fl View Post
why not clean that shit off with super clean or brake parts cleaner, then see how bad it is leaking over the next few weeks. you mentioned not needing to add oil so it may be minor even though it looks like shit.

mine looked like that for awhile. no way i would pay that much to fix. maybe 200 total in parts and a sunday project.
+1

Clean, drive for two weeks then report back with pics.. I bet your mind will soon change on what really needs to be done..
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      01-24-2015, 08:13 PM   #17
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Just had all three repaired. I was putting off these repairs, however, I gave in. The cost was $2,200. I was given 10 percent off. My car has 56,000 miles and I noticed a slight shake when I started the car. Also noticed my fuel consumption getting worse. I haven't had a car payment in two years, so I don't feel bad paying for these repairs. These cars are expensive to maintain, however, fun to drive.
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      01-25-2015, 02:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ny325 View Post
Just had all three repaired. I was putting off these repairs, however, I gave in. The cost was $2,200. I was given 10 percent off. My car has 56,000 miles and I noticed a slight shake when I started the car. Also noticed my fuel consumption getting worse. I haven't had a car payment in two years, so I don't feel bad paying for these repairs. These cars are expensive to maintain, however, fun to drive.
I take it you have a N52
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      01-25-2015, 03:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike3000fl
like i mentioned in another post, for 2500 i will drive there and fix all those, and i will buy you beer and bring you a woman. ill even mow your yard.
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      01-25-2015, 03:55 PM   #20
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Yes, N52. I decided to go ahead with the repairs because I plan on keeping my E90. There will be a whole new line of the F30 coming out in a year. 328 will be 330, and I read of a 440. I'm holding on until these models come out. But yes, I really enjoy my E90 that's why I fix/maintain it.
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      01-25-2015, 07:59 PM   #21
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Procedure 1 and 2: the work is the same. Make sure you get charged only for 15 minutes of extra work and the price of the gasket for the sensor. If they do the VCG the rest of the work is already paid for by this procedure.
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      01-25-2015, 08:19 PM   #22
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You won't see oil spots under the car, even if they are learking, which they look to be.

Oil usually drops onto the exhaust manifold and is burned off.

The 3 things you mention are VERY common on our cars, pretty much every car will need them at some point.

I just did my VC, VC gasket, and OFH gasket.

My VC and OFH gaskets I left leak for 6+ months until I finally bite the bullet. You can let them go for a little, but you don't want oil getting down in the coils/plugs.

good luck.
DIY if you can and can save some serious $... I ended up just paying the dealer to do mine, but if/when my ESSS I will prob try to get help and DIY.
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