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      11-19-2014, 02:15 PM   #1
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How long to replace a clutch?

My clutch is starting to slip when I WOT, time for replacement at 115,000 miles still on original clutch.

Those of you who have done it yourself, how many hours did it take?

Is this all I need here?

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      11-19-2014, 03:27 PM   #2
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I guess I might as well add the rear crankshaft seal to the list since i'll be close to replacing it... I think mine is leaking, there is oil at the back of the engine between the tranny and the block... It's an extra $20, and peace of mind... I need to research how to replace that sucker now...
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      11-19-2014, 04:36 PM   #3
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You will want a new trans input and output seal too.

Check this video from BavAuto.


If you have a lift and air tools you can do it in 4-5 hours.
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      11-19-2014, 04:41 PM   #4
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You can also look into the 335is clutch as well for a little more holding power.
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      11-19-2014, 05:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhawk36 View Post
You will want a new trans input and output seal too.

Check this video from BavAuto.


If you have a lift and air tools you can do it in 4-5 hours.
Thanks! Yeah, i have a lift i can use at my job, makes things much easier... it'll probably take me twice that time lol. You have a p/n for these two seals?

Last edited by Gizm0; 11-19-2014 at 06:11 PM..
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      11-19-2014, 05:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10splaya22 View Post
You can also look into the 335is clutch as well for a little more holding power.
Yeah, I saw that, same price and holds more torque. I'm definitely going that route.
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      11-21-2014, 08:55 AM   #7
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I have one more question:

Is it okay to use blue RTV sealant on the outside edge of the rear main seal to help prevent leaks there? Would black RTV sealant work better?
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      11-21-2014, 11:14 AM   #8
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I have an xi took me about 20 hours doing it on ramps. 3 of which was getting the pilot bearing out. Damn pilot bearing!!
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      11-21-2014, 11:22 AM   #9
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you will want to get new transmission bell-housing bolts as they are aluminum and meant for 1 time use. Get the 335is clutch, budget 2 days on and off work. Doing it on ramps will suck. Get a lot of extensions, about 3' worth. Look up under my name, I made a thread on my install and review of the 335is clutch.

Update: I'm at 10k on it, FBO e85, still holds like new. seen a few 20psi spikes.
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      11-21-2014, 11:27 AM   #10
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Has anyone done the rear main seal without removing the carrier? I'm doing my clutch soon and did not get a rear carrier gasket so I would like to do it without removing the whole carrier.
Thoughts?
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      11-21-2014, 01:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myrder View Post
you will want to get new transmission bell-housing bolts as they are aluminum and meant for 1 time use. Get the 335is clutch, budget 2 days on and off work. Doing it on ramps will suck. Get a lot of extensions, about 3' worth. Look up under my name, I made a thread on my install and review of the 335is clutch.

Update: I'm at 10k on it, FBO e85, still holds like new. seen a few 20psi spikes.
Thanks for the response. I checked your video, my car does the same thing, slips on WOT at low/mid rpm in higher gear. If i tune back to stock boost level, no issue... I'm not FBO, just JB4, downpipes, DCI and charge pipe, but I guess a 115k miles clutch can't hold the torque... How many miles did your car have when your clutch started slipping? I'm going for the 335is clutch for sure, same price as regular 335i clutch and holds more torque... Why not??

Question about the bell housing bolts. I think there are two or three different models. Do you have the part number for each of the bolts and how many of each I will need? That would be much appreciated!

Thankfully, no ramps, I have access to this bad boy to work on my car...

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      11-21-2014, 02:00 PM   #12
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OK So far in the cart:



- 335is clutch
- Clutch fork pivot pin
- Rear main seal
- 8 flywheel bolts
- Clutch alignment tool

- I need to add the transmission bell housing bolts but not sure how many of each I will need. Can anyone help? Thank!
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      11-21-2014, 06:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizm0 View Post
Thanks for the response. I checked your video, my car does the same thing, slips on WOT at low/mid rpm in higher gear. If i tune back to stock boost level, no issue... I'm not FBO, just JB4, downpipes, DCI and charge pipe, but I guess a 115k miles clutch can't hold the torque... How many miles did your car have when your clutch started slipping? I'm going for the 335is clutch for sure, same price as regular 335i clutch and holds more torque... Why not??

Question about the bell housing bolts. I think there are two or three different models. Do you have the part number for each of the bolts and how many of each I will need? That would be much appreciated!

Thankfully, no ramps, I have access to this bad boy to work on my car...

I posted about this like 2 weeks ago. The aluminum bolts no longer exist. BMW has replaced them with steel bolts. The same part number as before but I guessed they switched over to steel for the newer models. Old bolts were size E18 aluminum, new ones are E14 heads and steel bolts. You'll still need to buy new bolts because you can't use the aluminum again but anytime after that (god forbid) you can just reuse the steel.

I bought the 335is clutch also, worked out nicely.
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      11-21-2014, 10:31 PM   #14
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Your going to need a new flywheel. Bite the bullet and do it right.
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      11-25-2014, 10:38 AM   #15
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Sorry missed your response, but yea the Aluminum ones are not being made anymore. I just went to a BMW dealership and they had them in stock for cheap($15). I would just do that. My stock clutch started slipping at 45k, but who knows how the prior owner drove.
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      11-25-2014, 03:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myrder View Post
Sorry missed your response, but yea the Aluminum ones are not being made anymore. I just went to a BMW dealership and they had them in stock for cheap($15). I would just do that. My stock clutch started slipping at 45k, but who knows how the prior owner drove.
Thanks,

I found what I needed

Five M12x90 bolts (part number 23001222894)

They're shown in this pic.

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      11-25-2014, 03:16 PM   #17
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Just as a baseline to compare against the DIY....how much does an Indy typically charge for a clutch replacement? A dealership?
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      11-25-2014, 03:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galahad05 View Post
Just as a baseline to compare against the DIY....how much does an Indy typically charge for a clutch replacement? A dealership?
BMW dealership will quote you 6 hours of labor. Depending on where you live, it could vary. Around here I think they charge $105 an hour so looking at $630+tax in labor.

Indy should be around $400-$500
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      11-25-2014, 04:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizm0 View Post
BMW dealership will quote you 6 hours of labor. Depending on where you live, it could vary. Around here I think they charge $105 an hour so looking at $630+tax in labor.

Indy should be around $400-$500
wow, so PHX area indy's either wouldnt do it, or wanted $800+ in labor ( called 4 shops)

BMW wanted $2500 all said and done.
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      11-25-2014, 06:14 PM   #20
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Dealerships around here (Long Island): going labor rate is $150/hour.
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      11-25-2014, 08:46 PM   #21
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My buddy did his on the 135i, it took him about 7 hours to complete. and the first time it wasn't working right and had to pull the trans back out. Seemed like a lot of work, but hopefully you will have better luck!
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      11-25-2014, 09:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myrder View Post
wow, so PHX area indy's either wouldnt do it, or wanted $800+ in labor ( called 4 shops)

BMW wanted $2500 all said and done.
That is crazy!
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