HOWTO: Hardwiring a RD Using Fuse Tap Method in the F82 Trunk

[w00tw00t]

I just finished hardwiring my escort max into my M4 and thought I'd post a few details to help others.

I used a Fuse Tap (Get these from any autoparts store)
There are two fuse boxes in the F8x, one in the engine bay and one in the trunk - I tapped into the one in the trunk.
I used Fuse #146 - Homelink - which is switched

I ran the wiring up to the front of the car, tucking it underneath trim into my RD on my windshield.


Negative - Earth


The Fuse Tap


Fuse #146 Switched

[larryn]

Wait, what? Did you get rid of the Corvette? I keep underwear longer than your cars.

Good DIY anyway.

[w00tw00t]

hehehehehehehehe... still have the z06 :P

[smh_amg_m4gts]

What's a RD?

[w00tw00t]

Radar detector.

[Lincoln30]

Originally Posted by w00tw00t

I just finished hardwiring my escort max into my M4 and thought I'd post a few details to help others.

I used a Fuse Tap (Get these from any autoparts store)
There are two fuse boxes in the F8x, one in the engine bay and one in the trunk - I tapped into the one in the trunk.
I used Fuse #146 - Homelink - which is switched

I ran the wiring up to the front of the car, tucking it underneath trim into my RD on my windshield.


Negative - Earth


The Fuse Tap


Fuse #146 Switched

I did not see this post before I wired my V1 but this is what I did as well. I ran the V1 phone cable from the passenger side of the mirror in the headliner down to the passenger kickpanel. I put the V1 connection box in the kickpanel and ran power/ground down the passenger side to the trunk to fuse 146 and ground to a nut on the box next to the fuse box. I removed the A-pillar trim, weather strip, passenger under dash panel, kick panel, front and rear rocker trim, trim under passenger side of rear seat and rear seat bolster to run the wire and zip tie to the OE wiring.

It's OK to just tuck the wire all the way down the car if you want, but I do NOT recommend tucking it along the A-pillar, you need to remove the A-pillar trim (pull hard from the top to release the strong metal clip at the top, then work down to pop the two lower plastic clips then lift the pillar up and back to release the tabs at the dash) and zip tie the RD wire to the factory wiring to avoid interference with the airbag. All of the trim I mentioned removing comes off with no tools (all clips) EXCEPT the under dash trim which requires a 10mm socket and the top clip on the trim under the side of the rear seat needs the center pin pulled up before the clip will release. You do need a tool to pop the clips off the car that don't come off with the trim. I use a panel popper tool but other tools can be used to pop these plastic clips out and put the back on the trim piece for re-installation.

I was a car stereo installer, 20 years ago, so I'm probably a little more comfortable and faster then most people at this kind of work. It took me about 40 minutes to install the RD wire in the F80 compared to 20 minutes for E90 with the fuse box behind the glove box. I also soldered the connections instead of using a crimp connector. Soldering might seem like overkill but you will never have a loose connection from a good solder joint compared to scotch-locks and barrel connectors that frequently have connection problems. On the very rare occasion I use any crimp connector it will ONLY be the "butt" type where you twist the wires together and then crimp both together...these seem almost as reliable as a solder joint.