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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Clutch finally went out today



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      08-14-2015, 01:16 PM   #1
Gizm0
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Clutch finally went out today

Well my clutch finally gave up today at 132k miles.

Last night I installed my walbro 450 fuel pump, put about 10 gallons of e85 in the tank and did a few runs on map 7. It started slipping in 3rd and 4th... I'm swapping it for a 335is clutch, supposedly good for 600 lb.ft. torque.

How many miles have you guys been able to run on your original clutch?
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      08-14-2015, 01:19 PM   #2
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132k is great especially considering you're tuned. How long was it tuned for? I'm at 92k, original clutch, been tuned for about 17k. I have an xi though so there's more stress on the clutch.
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      08-14-2015, 01:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heel Toe View Post
132k is great especially considering you're tuned. How long was it tuned for? I'm at 92k, original clutch, been tuned for about 17k. I have an xi though so there's more stress on the clutch.
I've been tuned for the past 50k miles...

I drive hard but I baby my clutch. I live in an area with lots of mountains, twisty roads that require a lot of shifting. I rev match all the time, double clutch, heel toe etc... Probably why the clutch last that long
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      08-14-2015, 01:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizm0 View Post
I've been tuned for the past 50k miles...

I drive hard but I baby my clutch. I live in an area with lots of mountains, twisty roads that require a lot of shifting. I rev match all the time, double clutch, heel toe etc... Probably why the clutch last that long
Yeah I baby the heck out of mine. I can't even remember the last time I launched halfway hard. I'm paranoid mine might let go soon but it feels like it's really strong.
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      08-14-2015, 01:37 PM   #5
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It's not so much how long it lasts when running 450+wtq, its that it doesn't have the clamping power to hold.
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      08-14-2015, 01:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heel Toe View Post
Yeah I baby the heck out of mine. I can't even remember the last time I launched halfway hard. I'm paranoid mine might let go soon but it feels like it's really strong.
Assuming RWD the lower the gears the easier it is on the clutch cause the tires will break first.

It's when it can actually put all that torque down in higher gears when it will slip.

In your case it's probably all gears.
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      08-14-2015, 01:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miller335 View Post
Assuming RWD the lower the gears the easier it is on the clutch cause the tires will break first.

It's when it can actually put all that torque down in higher gears when it will slip.

In your case it's probably all gears.
Yessir. The lack of wheelspin on an xi in lower gears is certainly harder on the clutch, not to mention the extra 300lbs. But the load still increases with each gear. The worst is full boost around 3000 in 6th gear
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      08-14-2015, 01:50 PM   #8
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What's the typical DIY, Indie, and Dealership costs for a clutch replacement?
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      08-14-2015, 02:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galahad05 View Post
What's the typical DIY, Indie, and Dealership costs for a clutch replacement?
I was going to do it myself, but a friend of mine who I trust will charge me $320 for it... I think it's well worth it, plus i'm getting lazy lol

I called BMW, they want $950, a local indy charges $550 for the labor.
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      08-14-2015, 02:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galahad05 View Post
What's the typical DIY, Indie, and Dealership costs for a clutch replacement?
That price can very greatly depending on a bunch of things.
Labor will be $700-$1200.

If you replace the flywheel it can really add to the cost. OEM is $1000+ but its made by LUK and the LUK branded one can be as low as $500.

If you have over 50-60k miles you may want to do the rear main which will add some costs

I did the clutch myself and decided to replace the flywheel, between all the misc parts to do the job and the $520 LUK flywheel I had $1200 into it.

If I would have not repaced the flywheel (which I think you always should on a dual mass) I could have done thr job for $600-$700.

What I find funny is the stock 335 clutch and 335is clutch are same price, its a no brainer to upgrade to 335is clutch even if you dont need the clamping power and your replacing a worn out/high miles clutch
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      08-14-2015, 02:27 PM   #11
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Thanks, gentlemen. I'm at 96k miles and the clutch feels fine. Still, it's good to know the ballpark of what my options are when I do finally have to upgrade my clutch.
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      08-14-2015, 02:43 PM   #12
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Unless going to a 600+ RWHP setup, it only makes sense to go with the 335is clutch. After that, it's the gear rattling SMFW and aftermarket clutch.
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      08-14-2015, 03:28 PM   #13
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I changed my mind... I'll do it myself this week end. I'd rather put the $320 towards more go fast bits

Shinyyyy

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      08-14-2015, 03:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizm0 View Post
I changed my mind... I'll do it myself this week end. I'd rather put the $320 towards more go fast bits

Shinyyyy

If you can tackle replacing the clutch you can handle almost anything with this car, at least that's how I look at it.
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      08-14-2015, 03:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
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If you can tackle replacing the clutch you can handle almost anything with this car, at least that's how I look at it.
I've replaced a turbo on this car about a year ago... Clutch should be a breeze compared to that
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      08-14-2015, 03:55 PM   #16
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Out of curiosity, did you do the CDV delete?
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      08-14-2015, 03:56 PM   #17
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Out of curiosity, did you do the CDV delete?
I'll do it while I swap the clutch
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      08-14-2015, 04:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizm0 View Post
I've replaced a turbo on this car about a year ago... Clutch should be a breeze compared to that
Nice.
Yea I would think so.

I used a tranny jack but still used a friend help remove and marry it back up.
Better safe then sorry when dealing with heavy objects.
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      08-14-2015, 05:44 PM   #19
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Good luck with your clutch replacement!
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      08-14-2015, 05:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miller335 View Post
Nice.
Yea I would think so.

I used a tranny jack but still used a friend help remove and marry it back up.
Better safe then sorry when dealing with heavy objects.
I'll have a hydraulic lift and a tranny jack available to get the job done, plus i convinced a buddy of mine to help me out... How much does the tranny weigh on these cars?
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      08-14-2015, 06:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizm0 View Post
I'll have a hydraulic lift and a tranny jack available to get the job done, plus i convinced a buddy of mine to help me out... How much does the tranny weigh on these cars?
Not too much probably around 100lbs is my guess, its just kind long.

If you using a lift you'll have way better leverage on it than I did as I don't have a lift and have to use jack stands.
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      08-14-2015, 07:31 PM   #22
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Just curious, do you plan on leaving the stock flywheel? Replacing it? Has anyone had it resurfaced like you would with a normal single mass flywheel?

Post up some pics of the worn clutch disk and pics of the flywheel. Just kind of curious as to what it will look like. Considering you had clutch slippage i would recommend lightly sanding/scuffing the flywheel to eleminate glazing onnthe surface from the clutch slipping.

The clutch on this car is very straightforward to change. Just about the same as any similar sized rwd sports car.

Drop exhaust
Drop driveshaft
Disconnect shift linkage
Remove slave cylinder
Check for wiring connectors (reverse switch?, speed sensor?, etc)
Remove trans mounting bolts
Remove trans


Some parts i recommend thinking about purchasing while your at it:

~New slave cylinder
~Driveshaft guibo rubber disk
~Driveshaft center bearing/bushing
~E46 M3 trans mounts
~Pop out restrictor in stock CDV
~New shifter bushing rebuild kit(highly recommend)- ECS Teflon bushings
~Upgraded Shifter selector rod (UUC DSSR)
~Engine rear main seal
~DP gaskets
~Bmw short shifter gear lever (oem around $40-50 new)

Im probaly forgetting things, but you get the idea. Good time to upgrade some things. Obviously it will add to the cost of the clutch change significantly but well worth IMO.

Im shooting to eleminate all slop in the driveline. Few key things at your mileage (similar to mine) is rubber driveshaft parts wear out, rubber shifter bushings wear out, e46 m3 trans mounts are alot beefer than oem while still being rubber, driveshaft center bearing is surrounded by a big rubber bushing that gets sloppy and moves everytime you accelerate or de-accelerate.

BTW the pics of the oem 335iS cltuch and access to lift makes me jealous, lol. Will be doing the same thing when my clutch goes, but on jack stands...

Currently @125k miles. Only tuned after i got it. So maybe past 3-4k miles when i finally got the jb4. Good luck!

Anthony
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