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N54 maintenance question. Gimmie some feedback jokers.
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08-17-2015, 05:14 PM | #1 |
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N54 maintenance question. Gimmie some feedback jokers.
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Last edited by clemsonkev; 01-15-2016 at 08:09 PM.. |
08-18-2015, 12:31 PM | #2 | |
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You need to learn how to get into the Hidden menu in the Kombi... that will give some quick details about the car while you don't have INPA You need to learn how to get the CC ID using the BC Stalk for those warning messages in the Kombi. Basically once you get to the warning light... do a long press of the BS Stalk button and eventually it will show you the same warning icon with a CC ID XXX number (Check Control ID). you can google the error to find out the issue and the common solution that way. Carbon Blasting is a great thing you need to do on any high mileage n54. I did mine at 45k miles and at 95k miles. Usually you notice problems with cyl 5 or cyl 6 misfiring since they are the worst runners for build up. On a tuned car, you should be changing out the spark plugs every 25k miles instead of the stock 45k miles interval. Spark plugs can easily be combined with a carbon blast for reduced labor costs. When you do the carbon blast (about $250-$300) you should make sure they install a new gasket when they put it back together ($40 gasket) rather than reuse the old gasket. I would also consider having them inspect the coils (since the spark plugs are out). This is also a good time to get a BMS Oil Catch Can installed (OCC) so you get less blowby in the intake for future carbon build up. Also have them take a look at the Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG) mine started to fail at 75k miles and was finally replaced at 90k miles under CPO because originally they said it wasn't bad enough to replace. The OFHG also is known to have chunks of rubber break off and foul the WP/TStat... so get that one done if its due/needed. Drive belts are a good thing to do as well since 2wd cars have a tendency for it to rub the subframe, break, and get sucked into the front main seal and then grenade the motor Fuel Filter - never need it done unless you put in shitty gas? Power steering fluid almost never needs to be changed... but I'm doing mine at 100k (being done now). Coolant flush - I think every 2 years is too aggressive. I would say either when the WP/TStat fails you put in new coolant OR maybe once every 5 years/75k miles (plucking numbers outta the air). really the issue here is the OFHG and possibly the electronics on the WP/Tstat failing because of too many cycles/temps. What about your drive line fluids? |
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08-18-2015, 07:20 PM | #3 |
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https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...99804247,d.eXY
Read this and make your own informed decision. /thread
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2008 e90 335i 6spd 2011 e90 335xi 6spd 2011 e70 x5 diesel 2010 Ducati Monster 696 |
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08-19-2015, 04:32 PM | #4 |
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Ah, nice! I actually live in Moncks Corner pretty close to Summerville. I do everything myself except what I had the dealer (in West Ashley) do under warranty, so no experience with them. Do you go to Cars & Coffee on Saturdays?
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2008 e90 335i 6spd 2011 e90 335xi 6spd 2011 e70 x5 diesel 2010 Ducati Monster 696 |
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08-19-2015, 06:34 PM | #5 |
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I would change all the vacuum lines. It's pretty easy DIY and cheap. Will save you down the road when you try to find boost leaks. Don't forget obvious things like air filter which seems to become forgotten. Enjoy
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'10 e92 N54
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08-19-2015, 07:26 PM | #7 | |
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Power steering every 30K? Water Pump every 60K? Serpentine belt every 60K? What they left off is a brake fluid flush which is scheduled where most of the things you list aren't and are expensive. Brake fluid every 2 years. You don't pull the water pump if you don't need to. If you do the water pump every 60K, do the coolant then. I've never done a power steering flush on any BMW I had unless I lost a hose. The light you can't find is the backup light.
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08-20-2015, 11:20 AM | #8 |
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Manual transmission I believe should have all the driveline fluids done every 30k miles (Don't hold me to that... but thats what I believe is true).
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08-20-2015, 01:27 PM | #9 |
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I did mine at 60k.
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08-20-2015, 03:53 PM | #10 | |
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I did do it at 60k when I bought the car and it gave a noticeable improvement in shifting. Made it much less notchy.
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08-20-2015, 04:02 PM | #11 | |
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Shoot him an email and he will send you an updated document. He actually asks that people don't link it like was done previously in this thread as it is routinely updated. The 2013 version in this thread is the latest one I have, so it may still be current, but it never hurts to check.
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08-20-2015, 05:12 PM | #12 | |
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08-20-2015, 10:35 PM | #13 | |
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Then it went back to normal.
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08-21-2015, 08:05 AM | #14 | |
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I went with the d4 ATF and I think that is a lot of the reason it's less notchy. I used MTL in my e46 and never liked the feel it gave. I know it's heavily debated and Mike Miller said he never uses ATF, but I researched it and I think it's fine. It's what redline recommends for BMW manual transmissions. Here's an article by redline on the different fluids they offer for BMWs: http://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=13
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08-21-2015, 08:43 AM | #15 |
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I had the dealership do it, actually. So I figure standard BMW-spec manual transmission fluid. Whatever that happens to be.
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08-21-2015, 11:19 AM | #16 | |
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Did you have them change your diff fluid as well? That is probably more important than the trans with how little fluid these diffs hold. I did mine, but was only able to get just under a 1 litre out using a hand pump. I want to do it again using a continuous suction device off of a compressor or something.
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08-21-2015, 11:32 AM | #17 | |
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That would be nice for this car...
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08-21-2015, 12:38 PM | #18 | |
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