10-05-2015, 11:10 AM | #1 |
New Member
7
Rep 18
Posts |
Standard brake / rotor replacement schedule
I have a 2013 335i xdrive with just over 16K miles in 2 years exactly - and I recently took in the car to complain about brake squealing and was told that my brakes have worn down and will need replacement.
Understanding that brakes are dependent on the driving style, I don't track my car, but do probably drive it harder on the streets than the avg driver, I am still a little shocked that they have worn out in such short miles it seems. I have M sport brakes if it matters. As well, I was told that its not just the pads that are worn out - that I have to replace the rotors as well! Now I am especially shocked as I have never had to replace rotors on my old cars before (first BMW). I was told by the dealership that this is normal for BMWs. Looking for some advice on brake replacement - with BMW brakes do you need to replace rotors and pads regularly together? |
10-05-2015, 01:57 PM | #2 |
Second Lieutenant
46
Rep 211
Posts |
You should not need to replace the pads with the rotors at such a low milage. The last time I had rotors replaced was at 60k miles.
Either your SA is trying to pull one on you, or you've somehow warped/damaged your rotors beyond what is normal wear. |
Appreciate
0
|
10-05-2015, 02:53 PM | #3 |
Captain
207
Rep 603
Posts |
The car has brake pad sensors. No need to change pad before they light up for the first time. But then it's about time to change pads without large delay. (that's why BMW puts those sensors in the car) It's an easy check, just need to take one wheel of in front and in rear and they can show to you, if the pad is closed to the sensor.
Normally after the original pads are worn down, the rotors are also close to minimum thickness. I've seen that on my BMW as well. Minimum thickness should be marked on each rotor. So it's just something easy to measure. When installing new pads, the rotor should be grinded for a flat surface. To do so, the rotors need to be put off and on again, which needs install time. The grinding takes some material thickness. And grinding will also cost some money. And it must be made very precise, otherwise the brake feeling will be bad. I assume that's why BMW decided to make pads and rotors have the same lifetime. Changing both needs less know-how (no grinding process). And they can sell pad and rotor instead of just pad. (Personally I can live with that, because grinding is not making an old rotor new, just flat) If you really have to change the rotor, Think about getting the dimpled and slotted M Performance rotor for front and rear.
__________________
335i F31 RWD in SB || Powertrain: Active Autowerke Flash Tune Stage 1 | AA Charge Pipe | AA FMIC | GFB DV+ | xHD Trans-Flash | Quaife LSD | Cyba 3.5" Carbon tips || Chassis: 20" 405M | Wiechers Strut Bar | Rear M-Diffusor || Brakes: 18" M-Perf Brake orange 370/345 | EBC YellowStuff pads all around || Various: LED bulbs: Fog-L. front | Turn Signal f&r | Brake L. | Reverse L. | Rear L. | Rear Fog L.
Last edited by oceanview; 10-05-2015 at 02:58 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
10-09-2015, 09:30 AM | #4 |
Lieutenant Colonel
481
Rep 1,572
Posts |
That is extremely low mileage for needing a Pad replacement. I'm at 55K and am still about 15-20K mileage left on the rear pads. Even more on the fronts. As mentioned, if your brake sensor has not triggered, you are not at minimums yet.
Due to the normal amount of mileage we get from the OEM pads, it is usually a good idea to just change rotors at the same time. Otherwise your rotors will be passed minimum wear and need to be replaced before your new pads do. Normally, it is a bad idea to replace rotors and not pads. Leads to abnormal wear, squealing and brake vibration. And as also mentioned you can pull the wheels to check just how close the sensor contact is getting to the rotor. There is one sensor for the front axle and one for the rear. I think (don't promise) the front is on passenger side brake assembly and the rear is on the driver's side rear brake assembly. Whichever, they will be on the opposite side from each other. |
Appreciate
0
|
10-10-2015, 07:19 PM | #5 |
New Member
7
Rep 18
Posts |
thanks for all the replies - confirming my suspicion that it seems to be early. Although I am glad to hear that it's standard to have rotors and pads replaced at the same time so they aren't lying to me there.
Well my sensor hasn't gone off yet, but according to my SA that its getting close to the limit hence the brake squealing. He did say that there is probably still a couple of months life in them still before the sensor comes off. What are the common reasons that the pads and rotors could be warped so much earlier? Like i said, 16K in 2 years, mild winters here but almost all my miles are done in stop/go traffic in the city. |
Appreciate
0
|
10-11-2015, 10:02 AM | #6 |
Lieutenant Colonel
481
Rep 1,572
Posts |
BMW has a TSB for brake squeal for my F30 (2013). Most obnoxious when cold and backing up or going forward at low speed and light brake pressure applied. Dealer ended up "Filing the leading and trailing edges of the pads which helped for about a year, but it is returning. Probably because the pads are wearing down past the level of the filed. Supposedly caused by "paint runs" on the side of the pads rubbing against the rotors. (not sure I buy that story). According to my paperwork the TSB is SI B34 09 13.
Hope this helps. |
Appreciate
0
|
10-11-2015, 10:07 AM | #7 |
Lieutenant Colonel
481
Rep 1,572
Posts |
I doubt you have warped rotors (pads don't warp). You would feel a definite vibration under braking either in the steering wheel if front rotors or chassis if rear rotors. Rotors (if not a manufacturing error) can warp under repeated heavy braking w/o sufficient time to cool. Most unusual unless tracking the car.
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-13-2015, 07:24 PM | #8 |
Colonel
453
Rep 2,973
Posts |
OP. Brake squeal is typically pads vibrating agains other hard surfaces in the caliper.
Also with a 2013, maint. should cover the pads and rotors if they want to replace them. It is 4 years, 50K. Unless they are trying to pull that thing they did later on with only offering that to the original buyer. Anyway, 16K and you don't track the car? If the sensor is not triggered he's full of it. You should be able to look and see how far off the metal backing on the pad is away from the rotor.
__________________
Arctic Metallic\CF Splitters, Spoiler, Mirror Covers\LED Tails\LSD\Tinted\Coded\Apex Square SM10-19"\LED Angel Eyes\Gloss Black Grill\Integrated V1 & Galaxy Tab\M-Performance Brakes\Cobb Tuned\xHP Flash\Resonator Removed and -> is your friend.
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-14-2015, 11:16 AM | #9 |
Lieutenant Colonel
481
Rep 1,572
Posts |
OP is in Canada and, I think, their warranty coverage is different. Still 4 years and 80,000 kilometers, but I think the depth and breadth of the coverage is different. OP check with your dealer of what is covered under your warranty.
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-14-2015, 10:54 PM | #10 | |
New Member
7
Rep 18
Posts |
Quote:
I tried searching the TSB in google and can't come up with anything - any idea where I should look to get a copy of that? |
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-14-2015, 10:56 PM | #11 | |
New Member
7
Rep 18
Posts |
Quote:
Man you guys get brakes covered in the USA? That is awesome |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-18-2016, 02:53 AM | #12 | |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
Quote:
I had earlier taken the car into the main dealer and they had carried out an inspection, reporting that the front pads had 3mm and back 6mm remaining. Both front and back rotors were lipped. I was also told that he rear pads are now 70% worn, but only take 20% to 30% of the braking force so should last to the next service. I did not notice my service indicators were on, although when I spoke to them they said that their system recommended replacement. On speaking with the dealer I was informed that the brakes are designed to wear the rotors as well as the pads, improving braking efficiency. In general you should replace rotors for every 2 sets of pads. Although if they think that the rotors are badly lipped or scored they will recommend replacing the rotors with the pads. Thus avoiding poor rotor / pad contact and possible squealing / vibration. I am quite surprised that after 24k and 30k I will have fully replaced both front and back rotors. It will certainly make for quite expensive future services as the braking system will be a standard replacement item. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-18-2016, 03:06 AM | #13 |
Private First Class
29
Rep 195
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-19-2016, 01:08 AM | #14 |
Brigadier General
592
Rep 3,870
Posts |
You guys are making a big deal out of nothing... Brake pads and rotors are wear items.... They are not supposed to Last forever and you know it.
During my warranty period, I have had the pads and rotors replaced several times, and they were not done in any synchronized fashion, and always before they were any indication of wear limit being reached. And thats totally a OK and fine. You actually dont want to wear them all the way down. Since my warranty period is over now, i replace the rear pads myself. Brake jobs (pads or rotors) are one of the easiest jobs when working on cars... Its really not that different from my old bimmers. For those of you new to bmws, stop over-worrying. Just because it is new to you doesnt mean it is new to everyone, nor that the problem is terrifying. Last edited by DrivenByE30; 02-19-2016 at 09:03 PM.. |
Appreciate
1
ZoranTerzic140.50 |
02-22-2016, 02:41 PM | #16 |
Private First Class
9
Rep 150
Posts |
How much material is left on the pads? Pretty simple to determine if you need pads or not. Look at them. Is the pad thickness the same or less than the backing plate? Time to think about changing them.
#toomuchdiscussion for #somethingsosimple Joel
__________________
That's a lot of white |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|