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Thinking of this build... did my research but have questions
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02-20-2016, 03:07 AM | #1 |
Ricebanger
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Thinking of this build... did my research but have questions
SORRY TO REPOST.. i accidentally put in N54
Hi everyone I have a 2011 N55 e92 X Drive Coupe It currently has JB4 + intake I am thinking of slowly add more bolt-ons now that I found an honest and legit mechanic in my area. I am thinking in this order - subject to recommendation - 1 - VRSF Charge pipe ---- do I need the blow off valve? what is it ? what advantages? also... should I buy the CP new or used? 2 - VRSF - downpipe -- I am thinking this one because its a good price? and good reviews? should I buy new or used? and are all of them catless 3 - VRSF exhaust maybe? do i need it? what if I just cut my cats? if I can convince him to? 4 - VRSF FMIC? --- maybe ?? do i need it? it cools my air right? or something? how many HP will EACH of the above mods add? I am also on JB4 tune 0 (because its -20 outside) and normally tune 1 --- when will I switch tunes and to which one |
02-20-2016, 06:45 AM | #2 | |
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You should do the FMIC first, then the DPs, then the CP, after that the exhaust. Cooling is more or most important to our cars, technically you should probably do the CP after that seeing that you've added the JB4 because the stock CP isn't really capable over a long time of handling the boost and they break easily but on the other side of the coin the DPs help to make the hot exhaust gasses exit quicker thus helping the turbo build boost faster due to less back pressure being built up. Personally I did the Cobb AP3 first, then the FMIC, DP, CP and GFB DV and then I moved my tune to Stg 2 Aggressive on the AP3. You can interchange the DP first and then do the CP because both do a great service for our cars but remember you did add more power with the JB4 and you do have the stock CP. Good luck with your car and welcome to the 335 fam.
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Mods: MHD Stg 2, xHP Flashtool Stage 3, VRSF 3" Chargepipe, Megan 4" Downpipes, Pure N55 Inlet, Outlet, VSRF 5" Stepped Intercooler, GFB Diverter, BMS N55 Intake, Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, BMS Sport Oil Cooler Valve, CF Spoiler, CF Kidney Grille, CF Mirror Covers, CF Eyelids, CF Wheel Hub Covers, CF Diffuser, M Sport Racing Strip, 20% Tints, and Golf Tee Mod
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02-20-2016, 09:34 AM | #3 |
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will just move my post here then.
1) you should get a N55 charge pipe. They don't have BOVs 2) Save up for a wagner or AR DP, or find one used. 3) exhaust is only for sound, wont add power 4) VRSF IC is fine, since you are in Canada you would probably be fine with the 5" |
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02-20-2016, 10:12 AM | #4 |
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^Majority of people here use VRSF parts with no problem, don't listen to this guy. If you're okay with spending $700 vs $300ish for a downpipe then go for it. VRSF makes good quality parts with great fitment. Do the FMIC before you do the DP, cooling is essential for our cars in order to maximize its potential.
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Gloss Black Kidneys/Gloss Black Spoiler/AG M359/JB4 Stage II/VRSF DP/BMS Intake/BMW PPK
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02-20-2016, 10:31 AM | #5 |
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^ +1
CPs often break at higher boost level, even just map 1 - so that's a must. Personally I don't see any sense in spending 900 on a downpipe. At FBO power levels, it just equates to a pipe. If you're building a race car, then maybe it would be worth it. |
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02-20-2016, 12:46 PM | #6 |
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Seriously this isn't a build its a bolt on list. Every Single item of interest has been covered. Search instead of begging. SO in turn you DID NOT do you research.
If you do not know what an FMIC is I suggest you actually not touch your car until you can talk intelligently about it. If you are going to just take the car to a shop and toss money, then have them fill you in on the details.
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02-20-2016, 01:57 PM | #8 |
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Your list look perfect OP. Don't listen to the people telling you to spend triple the money for the same part. VRSF makes great quality products. There is literally nothing to gain from overspending. I would definitely do the fmic before the exhaust though.
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WedgePerformance E40 MHD | Performance Exhaust Mod | BMS DP | Vibrant 1790 | BMS Intake | VRSF CP | xHP Stage 3 Michelin PSS | M3 Control Arms LUX v4 LEDs | Shadowline Grills | Lip Spoiler |
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02-20-2016, 03:30 PM | #10 | |
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WedgePerformance E40 MHD | Performance Exhaust Mod | BMS DP | Vibrant 1790 | BMS Intake | VRSF CP | xHP Stage 3 Michelin PSS | M3 Control Arms LUX v4 LEDs | Shadowline Grills | Lip Spoiler |
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02-20-2016, 06:29 PM | #11 | |
Ricebanger
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thats what i was starting to think... ill do one at a time even if i have to pay shipping 3x i guess is buying used ok? is 5" enough if im only doing dp / cp / exhaust / intake? im scared of this pressure drop i keep hearing about in realtion to the 7" it sounds like bad news |
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02-20-2016, 06:39 PM | #12 |
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Fmic
Catless dp Charge pipe with BOV or aftermarket diverters MHD and kick up the boost Intake Leave exhaust alone unless you want a sound change Inlets Outlets Lpfp Fuel rail LSD Coil overs and brakes Subframe bushings Turbos Stop where its enough or yout start breading your front drive cimpotent then call it a day. Charge pipe on mine was stock and is fine till 400hp or so. Last edited by Fundguy1; 02-20-2016 at 06:44 PM.. |
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02-20-2016, 07:57 PM | #15 | |
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02-20-2016, 08:14 PM | #16 | |
Ricebanger
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VRSF down pipe, charge pipe, intake and JB4 how many HP can i expect approximately? what about VRSF down pipe, charge pipe, intake, FMIC and JB4 how many HP can i expect approximately? I am going to try and buy as many used parts as I can then I will have to buy the other ones I cant get new... still debating between 5" and 7" FMIC... is the pressure drop thing bad?? 5" looks sufficient |
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02-20-2016, 08:17 PM | #17 | ||
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WedgePerformance E40 MHD | Performance Exhaust Mod | BMS DP | Vibrant 1790 | BMS Intake | VRSF CP | xHP Stage 3 Michelin PSS | M3 Control Arms LUX v4 LEDs | Shadowline Grills | Lip Spoiler |
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02-20-2016, 08:52 PM | #18 |
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You actually do add a bit of HP with a FMIC on the mid-range/top end. The stock FMIC heatsoaks pretty badly which causes timing to be pulled. With lower temps, more timing can be applied which results in additional HP.
I personally prefer the 7" due to the increased volume but if you're not planning on upgrading your turbo or racing the car the 5" stepped is a great option. The 5" stepped requires less modification to install and it does a better job at filling up the bumper. Shoot me a message when you're ready to purchase and I'll make sure we get you setup with the most cost effective shipping |
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02-20-2016, 10:33 PM | #19 | |
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02-21-2016, 01:14 AM | #20 |
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So modifying your car is subjective and everyone has their own opinions. I will share mine... Your build order should look like this.
Tune Chargepipe Intercooler Downpipe Exhaust is almost all for sound. If you are really pushing the car you will see minimal gains. Your intercooler and chargepipe will give you the most gains after the tune. Personally I would get a different brand downpipe as I am not happy with mine. I do think the VRSF intercooler is a great product though and would recommend it. Do not focus too much on how much power each upgrade will give you. You will feel the difference on the butt dyno.
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2011 E92 335i | 11.7@125 SOLD
2017 Camaro SS | 12.7@114 SOLD 2019 Audi TT RS | 10.5@130 SOLD 2020 F97 X3M | 11.0@123 2023 G80 M3 xDrive |
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02-21-2016, 06:44 AM | #21 | |
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02-21-2016, 08:23 AM | #22 |
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Each upgrade enhances the others and adds power. With fbo you add about 125-150 hp or 50% more than stock. Depends on tune, gas, geography, temp, individual car, etc. So any more accurate numbers than this aren't possible. Just know what the progression of what to add is so you are eliminating the weakest link each time and that each of the mods done does add power or have a purpose. Ex charge pipe adds no power but needs to be replaced so it doesn't explode.
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