tighten up my xi without coils/shocks/springs

miker2013 · 03-13-2016, 08:10 PM

so here is the question... i want to tighten up my 335xi but do not want to lower the vehicle at all currently, going to do suspension (probably coils) in the future but currently due to the crappy and uneven roads in my town i am scraping stuff all the time with the stock xdrive ride height so i don't wanna mess with that currently

so what can i do to make the vehicle feel more planted and stable and get rid of some of the body roll and sway?

given that i am going to run stock spring and shocks, which if any of these mods makes the most sense...

1-front sway bar (e92 m3 bar)
2-sway bushings all around (m3)
3-rear bar (is it needed????)
4-subframe bushings

any input would be appreciated... are anything like this gonna matter on stock suspension?

what about to tighten up steering response? are there any m3 parts than can help that a little?

thanks

Hvyarms · 03-14-2016, 01:29 AM

same

Dhillon92 · 03-14-2016, 05:06 AM

Nothing from the front of any non xdrive vehicle will fit, so no m3 sway, or other m3 parts. Rear sway is questionable, I would at least consider it after doing shocks/springs or a coilovers setup to see if you would need it. Subframe bushings will help with the rear being more planted vs bouncy, also look into inserts for the subframe bushings (rear) as a cheaper alternative with much less labour.

PrematureApex · 03-14-2016, 05:23 AM

Front tension (technically compression) strut bushing replacement makes a nice upgrade in steering feel/turn in.

UUC xdrive Front Swaybar

But the best thing you could do is upgrade your shocks and struts. Bilstein HD, Koni yellow, etc. You can leave your stock springs to retain ride height/comfort.

matteblue3er · 03-14-2016, 08:26 AM

You really should be modding the shocks/springs first, then other stuff.

Sway bars are used to fine tune a suspension after proper shock/strut valving and spring rate are selected.

Same goes for adjustable arms....they won't help with body roll much but they will help keep the car feeling planted/responsive.

Installing M3 rear subframe bushings was a huge improvement on my car. However I installed those after coilovers. The rear end feels MUCH more planted and does not sway over uneven pavement. Subframe inserts don't do anything....

But the main things that will affect/control body roll are lower center of gravity, proper shock/strut valving and spring rates, and sway bars.

You can install poly bushings or monoball bearings in the inner tension strut location to tighten up the steering response. Adds very little NVH, if any.

miker2013 · 03-14-2016, 10:36 AM

thanks for all the replies guys... you have convinced me to hold off and instead do shocks or shocks/springs

i really dont want to lower the vehicle much (or at all) and would like something that works with run flats

gonna research my options

Jeff@TopGearSolutions · 03-14-2016, 12:00 PM

The shocks will make the biggest difference of anything so if you don't care about lowering at least change the shocks, it will be a DRAMATIC difference for the better. Not only handling but ride comfort with a sport feel.

ironduke2010 · 03-14-2016, 02:59 PM

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458209

Is a good place to start. The first time I read that post/thread, I thought it was all obvious stuff. The more I researched, the more I started drawing those same conclusions myself, and realized how much sense is in there.

Julian2485 · 03-15-2016, 02:27 PM

I did rear m3 swaybar with subframe bushings it made a big difference. Then I did bilstein hds with stock springs and that made the ride more comfortable. After that I upgraded the front tension strut bushings and that helped improve handling even more. I now have sonic tuning s3 coilovers and love my ride. Only thing left is to get uuc front swaybar and m3 oem strut tower bar.

NiNeTyOne · 03-16-2016, 06:12 PM

Not to mention these cars are already too tight and if anything, they need loosening up to keep them from plowing into corners.

The point about getting spring rate sorted and matched to properly valved dampers is dead on. Get that first and then move on to bars.

Just to drive the point home, when we set up race cars we would often drive the cars without any bar to test spring/damper setups against previous setups. No joke. The bar covers up a lot.

Then deal with the rear bar with the front stock and see if the car is too loose.

03-13-2016, 08:10 PM	#1
miker2013 Lieutenant 65 Rep 515 Posts Drives: 335xi 6mt Msport coupe Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: monkeytown iTrader: (0)	tighten up my xi without coils/shocks/springs so here is the question... i want to tighten up my 335xi but do not want to lower the vehicle at all currently, going to do suspension (probably coils) in the future but currently due to the crappy and uneven roads in my town i am scraping stuff all the time with the stock xdrive ride height so i don't wanna mess with that currently so what can i do to make the vehicle feel more planted and stable and get rid of some of the body roll and sway? given that i am going to run stock spring and shocks, which if any of these mods makes the most sense... 1-front sway bar (e92 m3 bar) 2-sway bushings all around (m3) 3-rear bar (is it needed????) 4-subframe bushings any input would be appreciated... are anything like this gonna matter on stock suspension? what about to tighten up steering response? are there any m3 parts than can help that a little? thanks Last edited by miker2013; 03-13-2016 at 09:45 PM..
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03-14-2016, 01:29 AM	#2
Hvyarms Second Lieutenant 63 Rep 278 Posts Drives: 2010 335i XDrive Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: NorCal iTrader: (0)	same __________________
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03-14-2016, 05:06 AM	#3
Dhillon92 Captain 82 Rep 605 Posts Drives: '11 335xi Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0)	Nothing from the front of any non xdrive vehicle will fit, so no m3 sway, or other m3 parts. Rear sway is questionable, I would at least consider it after doing shocks/springs or a coilovers setup to see if you would need it. Subframe bushings will help with the rear being more planted vs bouncy, also look into inserts for the subframe bushings (rear) as a cheaper alternative with much less labour.
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03-14-2016, 05:23 AM	#4
PrematureApex Colonel 840 Rep 2,402 Posts Drives: N55 X1, N54 135, s54 m3 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Philadelphia iTrader: (0)	Front tension (technically compression) strut bushing replacement makes a nice upgrade in steering feel/turn in. UUC xdrive Front Swaybar But the best thing you could do is upgrade your shocks and struts. Bilstein HD, Koni yellow, etc. You can leave your stock springs to retain ride height/comfort. __________________ '02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni) '08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs) '14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat) '08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat)
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03-14-2016, 08:26 AM	#5
matteblue3er Captain 238 Rep 947 Posts Drives: Racecar Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Philly iTrader: (0)	You really should be modding the shocks/springs first, then other stuff. Sway bars are used to fine tune a suspension after proper shock/strut valving and spring rate are selected. Same goes for adjustable arms....they won't help with body roll much but they will help keep the car feeling planted/responsive. Installing M3 rear subframe bushings was a huge improvement on my car. However I installed those after coilovers. The rear end feels MUCH more planted and does not sway over uneven pavement. Subframe inserts don't do anything.... But the main things that will affect/control body roll are lower center of gravity, proper shock/strut valving and spring rates, and sway bars. You can install poly bushings or monoball bearings in the inner tension strut location to tighten up the steering response. Adds very little NVH, if any.
	Appreciate 1 Quote

03-14-2016, 10:36 AM	#6
miker2013 Lieutenant 65 Rep 515 Posts Drives: 335xi 6mt Msport coupe Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: monkeytown iTrader: (0)	thanks for all the replies guys... you have convinced me to hold off and instead do shocks or shocks/springs i really dont want to lower the vehicle much (or at all) and would like something that works with run flats gonna research my options
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03-14-2016, 12:00 PM	#7
Jeff@TopGearSolutions 3442 Rep 79,211 Posts Drives: C6 Z06, 09 335i, 10 335xi Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: www.TopGearSolutions.com iTrader: (37)	The shocks will make the biggest difference of anything so if you don't care about lowering at least change the shocks, it will be a DRAMATIC difference for the better. Not only handling but ride comfort with a sport feel.
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03-14-2016, 02:59 PM	#8
ironduke2010 Enlisted Member 6 Rep 46 Posts Drives: E92 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458209 Is a good place to start. The first time I read that post/thread, I thought it was all obvious stuff. The more I researched, the more I started drawing those same conclusions myself, and realized how much sense is in there.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-15-2016, 02:27 PM	#9
Julian2485 Major 110 Rep 1,340 Posts Drives: Black lci e90 335 xdrive Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: New york iTrader: (1)	I did rear m3 swaybar with subframe bushings it made a big difference. Then I did bilstein hds with stock springs and that made the ride more comfortable. After that I upgraded the front tension strut bushings and that helped improve handling even more. I now have sonic tuning s3 coilovers and love my ride. Only thing left is to get uuc front swaybar and m3 oem strut tower bar.
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03-16-2016, 06:12 PM	#10
NiNeTyOne Touring cars rock 351 Rep 907 Posts Drives: e91 330xi / 997 GT3 Cup Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: SEA iTrader: (0)	Not to mention these cars are already too tight and if anything, they need loosening up to keep them from plowing into corners. The point about getting spring rate sorted and matched to properly valved dampers is dead on. Get that first and then move on to bars. Just to drive the point home, when we set up race cars we would often drive the cars without any bar to test spring/damper setups against previous setups. No joke. The bar covers up a lot. Then deal with the rear bar with the front stock and see if the car is too loose.
	Appreciate 1 Quote