[John 070]

I'm planning on doing mine next weekend, and I've seen videos where hubs were rusted just like mine, and they came off with minimal effort/tapping.

On my other two cars, I was not able to get rotors off with a small 4 lb sledgehammer--I'm pretty sure they would have come off if on a lift and a big sledge hammer (how would a shop get them off if not?).

It just seemed that with the E92 videos, despite lots of rust on the lip of the hub, small taps got the rotors off easily. That's what I want haha

[mojobmw_e90]

Bmw did a really good job with these cars when it comes to rust and such. My 07 with 90k rotor came off as soon as I removed the caliper assembly

[John 070]

Sweetness....I wanted to get away with just pads like I usually would on other cars, and break BMWs rule of always rotors with pads, but I don't know wth happened? They were smooth as glass through 45k, and now are starting to have ridges in the surface. Maybe the pads started biting into them and I shoulda changed the pads sooner. The pads are like 30% left on fronts, and maybe 20% rears, at 50k....

[Efthreeoh]

If you are talking front brakes, you'll have no issues. Use penetrating oil on the rotor screw. Get new rotor screws. And don't use a L-shaped Allen wrench on the the screws, use a T-shaped wrench. If rear brakes MAKE SURE THE PARKING BRAKE IS RELEASED!

[John 070]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If you are talking front brakes, you'll have no issues. Use penetrating oil on the rotor screw. Get new rotor screws. And don't use a L-shaped Allen wrench on the the screws, use a T-shaped wrench. If rear brakes MAKE SURE THE PARKING BRAKE IS RELEASED!

Thanks Eft, I know you know wth you are talking about lol

I'm just still disappointed that somehow in the last 6 mos and only 5k, the rotors went from smooth as glass to seemingly starting to get grooves, but I'll feel better when I'm new all around again. I'll likely use a allen socket and ratchet...

My plan is to go OEM rotors FCP, so next time I get free replacements...

[John 070]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Get new rotor screws.

thanks for this tip, my order has not been placed yet for the rotors...

Ah, so that would not easily come off without some PB blaster? Any need to put it on the lip of the hub?

[bloppitybloop]

I had a very hard time getting my rotors off. It was my first time ever doing brakes and I gave up and took the car somewhere to get them done. Trying to do it in my apartment's parking garage with limited space just wasn't enjoyable.

[Miller335]

I had to pound the shit out of my rear rotors to get them off.
My car only had a touch over 30k on it and the car has never been near road salts.

It basically fuses to the hub just being exposed to water. I made sure I put some anti-seize on the hub so it will make next time hopefully easier.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by John 070

I'm planning on doing mine next weekend, and I've seen videos where hubs were rusted just like mine, and they came off with minimal effort/tapping.

On my other two cars, I was not able to get rotors off with a small 4 lb sledgehammer--I'm pretty sure they would have come off if on a lift and a big sledge hammer (how would a shop get them off if not?).

It just seemed that with the E92 videos, despite lots of rust on the lip of the hub, small taps got the rotors off easily. That's what I want haha

Light, hand held sledge hammer will get it off. Hit the rotor a few times and rotate it and hit it a few more times; rotating it and hitting it, until the rotor come off the hub.

Before you put the new rotors on, clean up the hub with a rotary, brass wheel on your drill and put some anti-seize on the hub before putting the new rotor in place. Also, grease or put ant-seize on the rotor screw as well. These three things will save you some trouble the next time you have to change out the rotors again.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_420259-42268...=50041776&pl=1

Also, make sure you bed the new brake pads properly to the new rotors. Speed up to 60mph and brake hard to about 15mph without setting off the anti-lock brakes eight times in a row.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by John 070

thanks for this tip, my order has not been placed yet for the rotors...

Ah, so that would not easily come off without some PB blaster? Any need to put it on the lip of the hub?

Not a bad idea, I've done that before. Also, someone, I think ECS, makes stainless steel rotor screws.

[brocklanders]

Use a rubber mallet, hit hard in rotation, it will seem like you're not getting anywhere but they will come off.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by brocklanders

Use a rubber mallet, hit hard in rotation, it will seem like you're not getting anywhere but they will come off.

This was exactly the case when I went to put snows on for the first time...car was about 11 mos. old--it was only the lips of the hubs causing the OEM 189 rims to not want to come off....thanks

[gabylonfive]

my rear rotors were a huge pain to get off. pb blaster and a big sledge are your friends - make sure the parking brake is off!

[dauble2k5]

Take the wheel off and spray some PB Blaster around the hub and where the wheel bolts are. For the rears, make sure the parking brake is off -- took me a little while to figure that one out

For the rest, just get a rubber mallet and bang on opposite sides of the rotor. It'll eventually come loose.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by gabylonfive

my rear rotors were a huge pain to get off. pb blaster and a big sledge are your friends - make sure the parking brake is off!

Here's my trick for the rear rotors. Make sure the brake is off. Use some penetrating oil on the lip of the hub. Then use about a 7" to 9" long 1-1/2 inch diameter wooden dowel (closet rod) with a 3lb. sledge hammer and hit the rotor back face where the break in the dust shield is (with the caliper removed). Rotate and hit repeatedly.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Here's my trick for the rear rotors. Make sure the brake is off. Use some penetrating oil on the lip of the hub. Then use about a 7" to 9" long 1-1/2 inch diameter wooden dowel (closet rod) with a 3lb. sledge hammer and hit the rotor back face where the break in the dust shield is (with the caliper removed). Rotate and hit repeatedly.

I love it, Eft is sharing the secrets of getting 'er did....very nice

[KNS]

This will get them off every time:

With a floor jack elevating the car put a good sized block of wood under the rotor (make sure the little screw is removed). Be sure the block is resting on the rotor and not the dust shield. Now lower the car down with the jack slightly - the weight of the vehicle on the rotor will pop it right off. Put a piece of cardboard down so the rotor has something to fall on.

No pounding, swearing or cussing, no medieval tools. Nice and easy.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by KNS

This will get them off every time:

With a floor jack elevating the car put a good sized block of wood under the rotor (make sure the little screw is removed). Be sure the block is resting on the rotor and not the dust shield. Now lower the car down with the jack slightly - the weight of the vehicle on the rotor will pop it right off. Put a piece of cardboard down so the rotor has something to fall on.

No pounding, swearing or cussing, no medieval tools. Nice and easy.

Technically, this method should work on my other two cars which I could not get the rotors off...I can picture a block that I would have tried it with from my youth, it's way bigger than anything I have today...

[nycbr]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If rear brakes MAKE SURE THE PARKING BRAKE IS RELEASED!

Now you tell me! Made that mistake once.

[335D Alpha Pappa]

I use this 12 ton gear puller from harbor freight.

I got tired of beating on rotors to get them off. I have not used this yet on the BMW but have used it on many other cars & trucks. It's a must for roads that use salt and de-icer.

Word of caution - stand to the side when removing the rotor. When this puller & rotor comes flying off, you do not want to get hit with 30lbs of steel. Had a stuck rotor on a GMC yukon and it flew about 3 feet when it finally popped off of the wheel.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa

I use this 12 ton gear puller from harbor freight.

I got tired of beating on rotors to get them off. I have not used this yet on the BMW but have used it on many other cars & trucks. It's a must for roads that use salt and de-icer.

Word of caution - stand to the side when removing the rotor. When this puller & rotor comes flying off, you do not want to get hit with 30lbs of steel. Had a stuck rotor on a GMC yukon and it flew about 3 feet when it finally popped off of the wheel.

So the center of the tool will press into the hub? Can the smaller 5 ton work? Looks like it's pointed, do you put a block of wood or something against the hub?

I just ordered front and rear parts from FCP and was able to split the order to use 2 promo codes ($10 and $25 off)....we're ready to rock this weekend, maybe I'm going to attempt the harder rears because the pads are worse off there...

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Originally Posted by John 070

So the center of the tool will press into the hub? Can the smaller 5 ton work? Looks like it's pointed, do you put a block of wood or something against the hub?

I just ordered front and rear parts from FCP and was able to split the order to use 2 promo codes ($10 and $25 off)....we're ready to rock this weekend, maybe I'm going to attempt the harder rears because the pads are worse off there...

I am sure the 5 ton would work as well. I wanted the 12 ton because I have a heavy duty truck and wanted to make sure there was enough grunt to get the rotors off.

I did not like the idea of putting pressure on the wheel hub with the point so I went to the hardware store to buy a bunch of different sized hex nuts where the point can sit inside the bolt hole and the pressure can be distributed around the nut. The nuts are easier to handle when you are holding 25lbs in one hand while trying to slip the jaws around the rotor.
A block of wood would eventually split, but you could use it.

I changed my front rotors from oem to the Hawks Pad and Goemet drilled and slotted rotors from ECS kit. The set screw was the hardest item to remove. Use a lot of pb blaster so you do not strip that screw and replace it with the stainless steel ones from ECS. I view those screws as a one time use to be replaced every time I replace the rotors. Strip the head on those screws and you will be in a world of hurt trying to get them off.