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      05-10-2016, 11:42 AM   #1
BXL4
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Damaged wheel rotor threads

Cross posting from the Tire & Wheel sub-forum: I just got done swapping my summer and winter tires myself in the driveway as the little shop near me who usually does this has gone out of business. I noticed that one of the lug bolts really has its threads stripped off - no doubt due to cross threading. I tried another clean bolt into the hole but I can feel that the female threads in there are fouled.

My instincts say to get a thread-chaser in M14 x 1.25 and try to remove the metal that is gumming up the female threads. That supposes that I can properly engage the original threads. If not, then I'm into some helicoil or other drill out/insert replacement which I won't try myself.

Any other words of experience out in Bimmerland to guide me? I've got a track day in mind for June and obviously will want this all fixed by then. Thanks for your replies. I did some searching but didn't see anyone with this problem before.
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      05-10-2016, 08:03 PM   #2
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Do you know if your shop used impact wrench to tighten the lug bolts? Lug bolts have to be manually torqued. Using impact wrench up to a certain point is OK but the remaining thread has to be torqued manually.
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      05-10-2016, 11:01 PM   #3
BXL4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfm56d7b
Do you know if your shop used impact wrench to tighten the lug bolts? Lug bolts have to be manually torqued. Using impact wrench up to a certain point is OK but the remaining thread has to be torqued manually.
Well,, they weren't over torqued when I removed them. I checked that with my torque wrench as I started. The only one that wasn't right was the stripped one that was tight but not up to spec.
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      05-11-2016, 06:40 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfm56d7b View Post
Do you know if your shop used impact wrench to tighten the lug bolts? Lug bolts have to be manually torqued. Using impact wrench up to a certain point is OK but the remaining thread has to be torqued manually.
It's hard to gauge when that certain point is.

I use an air ratchet and then finish off with a torque wrench.
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      05-15-2016, 12:58 AM   #5
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Bump. Nobody with wheel thread issues?
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      05-17-2016, 01:46 PM   #6
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Nope.

I never use and impact or air wrench to snug up or tighten lug nuts. I just spin them on to snug with a socket and extension then use my torque wrench. I had a tire shop put new tires on my Jeep Cherokee years ago and when I had a flat, i had to stand and bounce up and down on breaker bar to get them loose. Unless you maintain and check your own for correct calibration, I wouldn't use them. Anyway, that's my view
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      05-18-2016, 09:26 AM   #7
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I have used a pneumatic or electric impact gun to zip mine on and off for years. When mounting, I start the first turn or so by hand then just tap them on with the gun, but never hold the trigger down. Then use a breaker bar to snug to feel. Haven't had an issue with this method in 25 years. Now I have a Dewalt 1/2' impact that fits my 18 volt drill battery. It is fast and easy.

As the car gets a little older and the lugs get dirty/corroded I put some anitseize on to keep things clean.

As for your situation, yes, I would get a tap and chase the thread. Make sure it's straight as you start it. As long as it holds the proper torque I wouldn't worry about it too much, but keep an eye on it when swapping wheels in the future. Otherwise you might need to helicoil or replace the hub.
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      05-29-2016, 03:10 PM   #8
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Just noticed a couple of my threads were stripped in my brand new rotors when swapping wheels. The dealer must have used an impact wrench. Getting them to admit it at this point would be a headache.
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      06-03-2016, 04:25 PM   #9
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Umm.. not a BMW but a 2007 Honda Civic. A tire shop definitely used an impact gun to tighten the lug nuts. I had to change brake pads so I used a breaker bar extension on the tire iron to remove the lug nuts; bent it! and balled out the nut - still the nut wouldn't budge. I had to drilled it out (broke a few carbide bits) and replaced with a new nut. The half-day frustration was enough to almost do a drive-by on this dumb mechanic.

On the BMW, wouldn't you need to replace the hub?
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      06-04-2016, 09:21 AM   #10
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I was able to clean up the threads with this very clever tool:

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640...980_em_1p_0_ti

After several careful passes, I got the bolt to go in fine and take the specified torque. All is well that ends well.
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