[Maxwell1]

Thinking of adding a Subwoofer and Amp to my E93. I have the base stereo but I have swapped out the head unit for a touch screen Pioneer SPH DA-120. This mean I'm relatively happy with the sound quality I have with the standard cardboard speakers as the head unit lets me alter the sound to suit them (at least for now!).

So, what I'm thinking of doing is adding a JL Audio 200w Subwoofer Box and amp in my boot. The question is, is 200w enough seeing as I dont have the ski pass opening and therefore the displaced air wont be able to get into the cabin?

I have thought about removing the panels between the boot and the cabin and even cutting holes in them but this seems a bit drastic if I dont need to.

Thoughts?

[kaigoss69]

Best is to place the subwoofer in the ski-pass, running either infinite baffle or with a custom sealed enclosure. If you had done some searching, you would have already found what I'm talking about...

[Maxwell1]

I don't have ski pass through. Said that above.

Don't want a custom box, just want something simple and off the shelf.

[Fundguy1]

Which box? 200w would be more than oem by far. I want to do 300w to a 10w3 in a sealed box on mine.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Maxwell1

I don't have ski pass through. Said that above.

Don't want a custom box, just want something simple and off the shelf.

Then you make one! Off the shelf does not work well in e93. If you don't want custom, then I say don't do anything in the trunk, instead upgrade the underseats.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Then you make one! Off the shelf does not work well in e93. If you don't want custom, then I say don't do anything in the trunk, instead upgrade the underseats.

Under the seats won't do anything worthwhile. A box us easy to make. Mdf, glue, screws, silicone to seal, spray glue, carpet, terminal on back for wires, done. A 10w3v3 requires a sealed box approximately 12"x12x8" not exactly huge and fits right up against the back seat. Amp goes under the trunk floor. Done.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Under the seats won't do anything worthwhile. A box us easy to make. Mdf, glue, screws, silicone to seal, spray glue, carpet, terminal on back for wires, done. A 10w3v3 requires a sealed box approximately 12"x12x8" not exactly huge and fits right up against the back seat. Amp goes under the trunk floor. Done.

You do that, then you let us know how it sounds.

[Fundguy1]

That's the plan. Did similar in an old mustang GT vert. 1988. I had a 10" sounds treat sub then. It cranked. I do have ski pass through but it's not a big deal. Base penetrates.

[Maxwell1]

This sub and amp, attached. The more powerful basswedge seems to be too big.

[Fundguy1]

I'd go with this over that or better still build the box for $50 and put in better stuff.
ACS112LG-TW1: Single 12TW1 PowerWedge+™ with DCD™ Amplifier, Sealed, 0.25 Ω

[Maxwell1]

Anyone done what I originally asked?

[Fundguy1]

I'm sure. Again, will be better than under the seat stuff. Just wondering if that box is too big to fit.

[Lockman_321]

For verts I think you need more than that wattage

In my e46 i had ski pass sub box and amp I had the kicker compr 400w rms. It sounded good but with the top down you lose so much bass its unreal

In my e93 however I did something slightly different I have a 1000w rms sub in the boot and I can say for a fact it sound a million times better than what I had in the e46. Obviously the wattage and sub size is the main reason why.

If i went infinite baffle in this car it might sound even better (I don't know) but the wattage makes a huge difference compared to what I had before. with the top down now it sounds fantastic, compared to when I used to have the top down in my other car. Heres the box I have in my boot btw E93 Sub box

I would say for an e93 you want a bit more wattage than the one you are looking at. Hope that helps

[Fundguy1]

Lock man has the right idea. Just remember, all wattage ratings are not created equal. JL is very conservative vs most makers.

[Maxwell1]

Originally Posted by Lockman_321

For verts I think you need more than that wattage

In my e46 i had ski pass sub box and amp I had the kicker compr 400w rms. It sounded good but with the top down you lose so much bass its unreal

In my e93 however I did something slightly different I have a 1000w rms sub in the boot and I can say for a fact it sound a million times better than what I had in the e46. Obviously the wattage and sub size is the main reason why.

If i went infinite baffle in this car it might sound even better (I don't know) but the wattage makes a huge difference compared to what I had before. with the top down now it sounds fantastic, compared to when I used to have the top down in my other car. Heres the box I have in my boot btw E93 Sub box

I would say for an e93 you want a bit more wattage than the one you are looking at. Hope that helps

You get much rattling with that amount of power?

Thanks though. That's what I was thinking really.

[Fundguy1]

Rattling can be fixed. Typically it's the plate on back. Just put rubber washers under it.

[kaigoss69]

That's the thing...to overcome the sound dampening properties of the closed trunk, you have to throw enormous amounts of power behind it. Then, and only then, a fraction of the sound energy makes it through to the cabin. The majority of the sound energy is used to excite (rattle) trunk panels. In the convertible you have to use even more power, since you don't have a traditional cabin, and there is less cabin gain. This is like shooting cannon balls at mosquitoes...

[kaigoss69]

To explain this in another way...

Imagine you have the choice in your home theater setup to do:

a) put a large sealed-off metal box in your living room, and then place the subwoofer+enclosure inside the box

b) put the subwoofer in the wall and run it IB, or put a sealed enclosure behind the wall

Which option will take less power, cause less vibrations/rattles, and sound better?

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

To explain this in another way...

Imagine you have the choice in your home theater setup to do:

a) put a large sealed-off metal box in your living room, and then place the subwoofer+enclosure inside the box

b) put the subwoofer in the wall and run it IB, or put a sealed enclosure behind the wall

Which option will take less power, cause less vibrations/rattles, and sound better?

It's not that bad. I had high end everything with my mustang vert. The sub would overpower the separates if put all the way up. I had 500w to the 12" sub, 75w to each 6.5" front separate channel. I am personally going to utilize my ski bag hole. If you don't have one you can retrofit it and or mount it into the rear storage area wall behind the seat. You could also port through there too.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

It's not that bad. I had high end everything with my mustang vert. The sub would overpower the separates if put all the way up. I had 500w to the 12" sub, 75w to each 6.5" front separate channel. I am personally going to utilize my ski bag hole. If you don't have one you can retrofit it and or mount it into the rear storage area wall behind the seat. You could also port through there too.

You cannot compare a mustang trunk to a BMW trunk. Apples and oranges.

I'm not here to be negative. I have been in car audio for nearly 30 years. I have experienced every possible install and set-up you can imagine. I know most people want to start "small" and "simple" but in the end almost all of them end up going through the same learning curve I did, which is kind of expensive and time consuming, to say the least. Why not do it right from the beginning then? I'm offering my experience and try to steer people towards only spending the time and money ONCE, instead of multiple times.

[Fundguy1]

Ok. I did it for 3 yrs but never an e93. Anyway for me it's moot. Going through the ski pass.

[Lockman_321]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

That's the thing...to overcome the sound dampening properties of the closed trunk, you have to throw enormous amounts of power behind it. Then, and only then, a fraction of the sound energy makes it through to the cabin. The majority of the sound energy is used to excite (rattle) trunk panels. In the convertible you have to use even more power, since you don't have a traditional cabin, and there is less cabin gain. This is like shooting cannon balls at mosquitoes...

I agree with this. It's common sense to think that the sub would produce better sound through the ski pass than it would in the a boot box. I even said in my post might sound better. I'm just saying from my experience with my e46 ski pass sub to this this sounds so much better. There's no competition. but like i said i have a better sub and amp as well.

I've seen on these boards that a lot of people say don't get a boot sub for BMWs which is fine but it's also worth noting that some do get boot subs and are happy with it (as am I)

There's hardly any rattle even at high volumes and the bass shakes the inside of my car even though it's in a sub box in the boot.