[Miller335]

Pretty sure they're not warped but it's pad deposits.
R1concept slotted rotors and stoptech pads.

Only had them for about 2 year/10k miles.

What are my options?
Are they scrap now or can I get them turned to remove deposits?

[dmatre]

You can turn them, or you can use them HARD for a couple of stops.

Note: worn control arm bushings are frequently MIS-diagnosed as warped rotors.

It's a rotor issue ONLY if you can feel the deceleration oscillate as you come to a smooth stop. If you have a vibration when braking, but no speed oscillation when slowing (most noticeable just before complete stop), then I would check the bushings.

[Miller335]

Originally Posted by dmatre

You can turn them, or you can use them HARD for a couple of stops.

Note: worn control arm bushings are frequently MIS-diagnosed as warped rotors.

It's a rotor issue ONLY if you can feel the deceleration oscillate as you come to a smooth stop. If you have a vibration when braking, but no speed oscillation when slowing (most noticeable just before complete stop), then I would check the bushings.

Thanks for the heads up on the bushings.
The issue has came on rather abruptly over the last 500-600 miles. Would control arm bushings wearing out be a slow onset or can it happen very quickly?
Does anyone know the average miles control arm bushings last? I'm going to hit 44k miles soon.

I'm pretty hard on these brakes, lots of freeway pulls/aggressive city driving and AutoX/drag racing.

[dmatre]

Originally Posted by Miller335

Thanks for the heads up on the bushings.
The issue has came on rather abruptly over the last 500-600 miles. Would control arm bushings wearing out be a slow onset or can it happen very quickly?
Does anyone know the average miles control arm bushings last? I'm going to hit 44k miles soon.

I'm pretty hard on these brakes, lots of freeway pulls/aggressive city driving and AutoX/drag racing.

If you're racing/hard on brakes, then be sure to drive around a bit to cool then off before stopping. Also, don't clamp down hard from high-speed, come to a stop, and then sit there with the brakes on - this is when pads 'bond' to rotors.

If you have to do this (traffic stops on fwy, etc) then try to keep the wheels slowly turning continuously (rather than roll/stop) for a while.

Control arm bushings are fluid- filled, and durability is dependent on how/where the car is driven.

Once the bushing ruptures, the degradation would be rather quick (compared to a solid bushing).

[nycbr]

I had the same problem, felt like the rotors were warped. I probably didnt bed them in too well. pep boys has a lathe that will turn the rotors while still on the car. That should give you a fresh start. Just dont let them sell you any other service

[mjn77]

Once you have pad deposits they're pretty tough to remove, as the chemical balance of the metal disc has changed. Stoptech have a really goid article to read about this here;

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by nycbr

I had the same problem, felt like the rotors were warped. I probably didnt bed them in too well. pep boys has a lathe that will turn the rotors while still on the car. That should give you a fresh start. Just dont let them sell you any other service

OP says slotted rotors, don't think they will turn them. Let me know otherwise.

[mojobmw_e90]

I had r1 rotors and warped after 5k.went to oem pads and rotors and been 10k issue free

[mightbaal]

I find some of those aftermarket options are complete junk made with inferior steel. Tend to warp alot I went with blank Brembo rotors and those weird name arka something pads lol with great results.

[Miller335]

Spoke to Kevin at R1concepts about my situation and even though I'm past their one year warranty period he's going to send me a new set of front rotors!!

Not super excited to have to do the work again but it's nice to know that R1concepts stands behind their products even when out of warranty.

I'll keep everyone posted.

[NiNeTyOne]

DO NOT TURN ROTORS WITH UNEVEN TRANSFER LAYER.

Even though the OP has a new set of rotors coming I want to post this for others in the future.

Warped rotors, which I have seen exactly once on a car that had worn them 3mm below the wear point, exhibit HEAVY pulsing back through the pedal, not just in the steering wheel. It's obvious and very heavy in the pedal under braking. it will shake your whole leg.

I guarantee the issue you have is uneven transfer layer.

The tool to use with this problem is called a brake rotor flex hone.

http://www.amazon.com/Flex-Hone-RMFH...rds=Brake+hone

The reason you are probably having this issue is related to failing tie rods, or as another person noted, thrust arm bushings. On our cars the fluid filled thrust arm bushing is a VERY common failure item. Replace it with solid poly asap as they factory ones are crap.

I see this problem on people's cars at the track ALL THE TIME.

We locate and fix the failing suspension component, hone the rotors and clean the hubs properly with a wire wheel on a drill, apply a thick coating of Boshield to the mating surface between the rotor and the hub, and re-bed the brakes, problem solved.

So what is usually the cause? It's unfortunately often a number of things added together that cause the problem.

First, it's likely that the rotor/pad combination you are using is incompatible with the driving you are doing. Have you considered that the heat range of the pad may be well above what you are putting into them?

IF you are not getting sufficient heat into a pad it will never retain the transfer layer you develop when you bed the brakes, and once it is partially skuffed away by cooled pads it becomes uneven and any misalignment or work bushing in the front will amplify the problem.

Bakes are a complete system, and if you are not on tack the liklihood you ever get brakes over 350° is almost zero. I see people running performance pads on the street and all they are doing is eating up rotors at 4x the normal wear rate. Not only that, they are actually reducing braking performance.

I bet if we put rotor paint on the edge of the new rotors we're not even touching the green paint heat wise.

I have advised Centric's Posi-Quiet 105.XXXX compound ceramic pads for people who want a performance like pad that is suited to aggressive street driving (I actually use these on the street and swap to Pagid RS pads for the track). These are the best street pads I have ever used. Perfectly matched in terms of their temperature performance for hard street use, and they produce zero dust, and are very kind on rotors.

Hope that helps.

[Miller335]

Rotors arrived Friday and installed Sat morning.
Been slowly bedding them into the old pads.

So far so good! No pulsating under braking again.

Thanks Kevin for taking care of me.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by NiNeTyOne

DO NOT TURN ROTORS WITH UNEVEN TRANSFER LAYER.

Even though the OP has a new set of rotors coming I want to post this for others in the future.

Warped rotors, which I have seen exactly once on a car that had worn them 3mm below the wear point, exhibit HEAVY pulsing back through the pedal, not just in the steering wheel. It's obvious and very heavy in the pedal under braking. it will shake your whole leg.

I guarantee the issue you have is uneven transfer layer.

The tool to use with this problem is called a brake rotor flex hone.

http://www.amazon.com/Flex-Hone-RMFH...rds=Brake+hone

The reason you are probably having this issue is related to failing tie rods, or as another person noted, thrust arm bushings. On our cars the fluid filled thrust arm bushing is a VERY common failure item. Replace it with solid poly asap as they factory ones are crap.

I see this problem on people's cars at the track ALL THE TIME.

We locate and fix the failing suspension component, hone the rotors and clean the hubs properly with a wire wheel on a drill, apply a thick coating of Boshield to the mating surface between the rotor and the hub, and re-bed the brakes, problem solved.

So what is usually the cause? It's unfortunately often a number of things added together that cause the problem.

First, it's likely that the rotor/pad combination you are using is incompatible with the driving you are doing. Have you considered that the heat range of the pad may be well above what you are putting into them?

IF you are not getting sufficient heat into a pad it will never retain the transfer layer you develop when you bed the brakes, and once it is partially skuffed away by cooled pads it becomes uneven and any misalignment or work bushing in the front will amplify the problem.

Bakes are a complete system, and if you are not on tack the liklihood you ever get brakes over 350° is almost zero. I see people running performance pads on the street and all they are doing is eating up rotors at 4x the normal wear rate. Not only that, they are actually reducing braking performance.

I bet if we put rotor paint on the edge of the new rotors we're not even touching the green paint heat wise.

I have advised Centric's Posi-Quiet 105.XXXX compound ceramic pads for people who want a performance like pad that is suited to aggressive street driving (I actually use these on the street and swap to Pagid RS pads for the track). These are the best street pads I have ever used. Perfectly matched in terms of their temperature performance for hard street use, and they produce zero dust, and are very kind on rotors.

Hope that helps.

This is very cool. Thank you for posting this. I'm definitely going to keep one of these around. It runs about $30-40, which is almost the cost of one rotor, but it definitely would come in handy in the future.