[mightbaal]

Alright well I went from Mobil 1 to Castrol for the LL-01 reasons and have nothing but problems keeping my oil temp down now running map 7 on a E85 BEF FBO. I never ever had problems with mobil 1 but now my JB4 kicks me to stock boost when I'm in the twisties.... I know alot of people will say its not the oil or its not possible but I beg to differ. I am 2008 335xi no oil cooler. I want my engine to last as long as possible as they are expensive as heck and I am a very spirited driver 69k on the clock atm.

[olivojoe]

I could have sworn I saw a post on this the other day, hate to say it but the consensus from what I remember was oil type wont make a difference. Best bet is retrofit an oil cooler or run a higher ratio of distilled water:coolant in the summer months to help make the cooling system more efficient.

If you think about it from an energy standpoint, oil's main purpose is not to pull heat off the block, but to lubricate. The top end of the engine isn't "swimming" in oil, it just basically gets poured over all the moving parts to reduce friction and wear. I have even heard people on here that tax the oil temps pretty hard in the hot summer months even with an oil cooler. The main functions of pulling heat from the engine are the cooling system and ambient air passing through the engine bay at speed.

FWIW, I run the Mobil 0W-40 and I am in central Florida with summer months around 95F+, and I am yet to run into any major temp issues, but I do not overtax the engine in those temps and I only do spirited driving in short spurts on public roads, so I cannot speak for anyone doing any track driving.

Good luck!

[timothy2001]

Houston in the summer is pretty brutal and although our cars run hot it still doesn't sit well with me and I also enjoy spirited driving.

I have a factory oil cooler but I also installed the Sport Oil Cooler Valve from Burger. It was very inexpensive, simple to install and drops the oil temp enough to make be feel better about it.

Can't hurt and it's just as easy to remove if you want to.

[Dark_Knight_335]

Meth? Just pony up and get an upgraded oil cooler.

[feuer]

Either aftermarket coolant radiator or BMW PPK additional coolant ratioator in the driver side would help more than any oil cooler and/or experimenting with different brands of oil. There is reason why BMW went with additional coolant radiator to combat overheating issues and they didn't went with additional oil cooler.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=17571606
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=17571606
Especially helpful on AT equipped

[NiNeTyOne]

One thing a lot of people forget is that the sludge that builds up inside the VC's and in the lower pan are a big part of why motors lose the ability to cool oil.

One thing you should try is to go get two cans of Liqui-Moly engine flush and a couple $20 5L jugs of T6 oil and do a couple of full flushes. (I suggest T6 because it's fairly cheap)

You go out and drive the hell out of the car and when it's smoldering hot, pour in the engine flush and let the car idle for 10-15 minutes, then dump the oil.

Then pour in the new batch of T6, drive the car for a few minutes till it's nice and hot again, and add the second bottle of engine flush. Rinse, repeat.

Once done, put in a nice new filter and the oil of choice, I favor LiquiMoly and it has been very good to me in both race engines and in the street cars.

You may find that a clean engine will run a lot cooler.

Another trick I've been using for years is to have the lower oil pan coated with a thermal dispersant. Shops that do ceramic coating can do this for not too much. It can drop oil temps by 10-15°F by eliminating hot spots and transporting heat to the cool areas of the pan, which helps is conduct heat much more efficiently. We did it on a race car and logged a solid 15° drop on track during endurance racing where heat sink was previously a big issue.

One other thing I've seen to reduce oil temps is to use Ceratec. Also a Liqui-Moly product, it bonds to the metal surfaces and reduces friction, and thus heat. I've been running it for a few years with good results. The bearings show noticeably reduced wear.

[floydarogers]

Let's be realistic here: the engine wasn't designed for FBO E85 map 7. You're running outside of it's basic operating parameters and need an oil cooler.

It's also getting to be summer, which is probably contributing; turn off your a/c.

[feuer]

If sludge is an issue when using additives there is a big risk to clog up the oil pump and starve the engine from sufficient oil supply. On n54tech there are few thread with date from logs showing what mods help and what don't regarding n54 running hot.

[mex2309]

Originally Posted by NiNeTyOne

One thing a lot of people forget is that the sludge that builds up inside the VC's and in the lower pan are a big part of why motors lose the ability to cool oil.

One thing you should try is to go get two cans of Liqui-Moly engine flush and a couple $20 5L jugs of T6 oil and do a couple of full flushes. (I suggest T6 because it's fairly cheap)

You go out and drive the hell out of the car and when it's smoldering hot, pour in the engine flush and let the car idle for 10-15 minutes, then dump the oil.

Then pour in the new batch of T6, drive the car for a few minutes till it's nice and hot again, and add the second bottle of engine flush. Rinse, repeat.

Once done, put in a nice new filter and the oil of choice, I favor LiquiMoly and it has been very good to me in both race engines and in the street cars.

You may find that a clean engine will run a lot cooler.

Another trick I've been using for years is to have the lower oil pan coated with a thermal dispersant. Shops that do ceramic coating can do this for not too much. It can drop oil temps by 10-15°F by eliminating hot spots and transporting heat to the cool areas of the pan, which helps is conduct heat much more efficiently. We did it on a race car and logged a solid 15° drop on track during endurance racing where heat sink was previously a big issue.

One other thing I've seen to reduce oil temps is to use Ceratec. Also a Liqui-Moly product, it bonds to the metal surfaces and reduces friction, and thus heat. I've been running it for a few years with good results. The bearings show noticeably reduced wear.

In the 90's my dad used to do this from time to time on an old jeep.
This is still recommended now a days, even on a newer bmw?

[fmoua916]

Best bet is just get an oil cooler

[NiNeTyOne]

Originally Posted by mex2309

In the 90's my dad used to do this from time to time on an old jeep.
This is still recommended now a days, even on a newer bmw?

I did this every other oil change on my built twin turbo Audi. That car had $40k in mods and pushed 440 wheel for 160k miles. It was a VERY hot motor, despite all the extra cooling, coatings, etc. First time I flushed it was 80k miles, and you can't believe what came out.

The BMW oil pump is significantly more robust than the one on that car. I do it every third change on my N52k, have never seen any issue, and do it on the race car as well.

A clean engine is a happy and cooler engine.

If you have so much sludge in your motor that clogging the oil pump is an issue then you have far bigger problems than we will get into here.

I'm not going to argue that you don't need an oil cooler though. Reality is you are pushing more power, and that means more heat. Get an oil cooler as well.

[Gohan335i7]

Like most said b4 me. Get the Oil Cooler!! 🤘😜🤘