Time for a new clutch

frankiec02 · 07-01-2016, 04:43 PM

So, I posted a few things regarding a problem I was having with my e90 and I just got the car back from the mechanic with a diagnosis. My car has just under 170K miles and, to my knowledge, the clutch has never been replaced. I was pulling onto the highway a few weeks ago and I was shifting at or above 4K RPMs in 3d and 4th when I popped a spring out of the clutch. I had no idea what the noise was at the time. The dealer told me that I had multiple misfire codes, I needed new coils, plugs, and a new starter. I replaced all three, but when I replaced the starter I found what looked like rings and grease where the fly-wheel meets the starter. Now I know what those rings are and now I know what that sound was when I pulled onto the highway.

I don't plan on keeping this car for forever. I don't peel-out or smoke the tires, but I do shift....aggressively sometimes (I bought this thing to drive it fast, not to look cool). Currently, I'm looking to buy at clutch from Action Clutch, but I don't understand anything about clutches. My engine is an N52.

Does anyone know anything about the different clutch types that Action Clutch offers? Can anyone recommend what the best clutch for me would be?

tlow98 · 07-02-2016, 12:48 AM

You didn't mention which car you have; 325, 328 or 330?

Most people upgrade to the 330i clutch. It's more robust than the 325/328 and should last you another 170k. I don't think I'd go with anything else unless you're club racing. Clutch is a big job and you want something that will be spot on the first time around.

Efthreeoh · 07-02-2016, 07:19 AM

I just replaced my clutch DIY in December. I posted a detailed DIY in the DIY section that you can review to get an idea of what the work entails. The clutch parts are 1) Flywheel 2) Pressure Plate, 3) Clutch Disk - comes with the pressure plate, 4) Throw-out Bearing and Lever - also comes with the pressure plate, and 5) guide bushing (separate part)

Here's my advice:

Use genuine BMW parts or the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts. Clutch replacement is a very labor intensive job, which includes removal of the exhaust, under panels, driveshaft and transmission. Going back in to replace a non-BMW/OEM part will be almost as expensive as the original job.

Get a new dual-mass flywheel - LUK is the OEM (original equipment manufacturer). The dual-mass flywheel tends to break at high mileage and will cause vibration. So even if your flywheel is not broken now, replace it while you are replacing the clutch. The EO (original equipment) flywheel from BMW is $900, you can find it for $500 as OEM; it's the same part. LUK also is the OEM for the pressure plate and it's about $300 on-line. Make sure the mechanic also replaces the guide bushing P/N 23117564680 and uses new bolts P/N 21207548052 (6 ea.) for the pressure plate. The guide bushing (part No. 1 in pic below) will be worn at your mileage so make sure it gets replaced.

Some people here will say replace the rear crankshaft seal even if it is not leaking. Professional mechanics will tell you not to replace it if it is not leaking. The reason for this is because there is a 50/50 chance that a new seal will start to leak. Professionals don't want to go in afterwards to repair the seal under warranty. Replacing the seal on the N52 requires special tools and special sealants. If your oil pan gasket is leaking it can trick you into thinking the rear seal is leaking. The rear of the pan protrudes into the bell housing behind the flywheel. The pressure plate has fan blades in it to cool the clutch, which throw the leaking oil all over the place. My bell housing was a mess. The crank seal was dry as a bone (at 293,000 miles). If your oil pan has any type of leak, you may want to have the mechanic replace the pan gasket so everything stays clean after the new clutch is in.

I think a reasonable price for a clutch replacement at an Indy is around $1,500 - $1,800 (with a new flywheel) based on what Posters here have reported. I spent about $950 in parts alone for doing it DIY.

A few pics of what the parts are. Pic 1 is the clutch (pressure plate kit), Pic 2 is the guide bushing:

07-01-2016, 04:43 PM	#1
frankiec02 New Member 1 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2006 330i Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: New York iTrader: (0)	Time for a new clutch So, I posted a few things regarding a problem I was having with my e90 and I just got the car back from the mechanic with a diagnosis. My car has just under 170K miles and, to my knowledge, the clutch has never been replaced. I was pulling onto the highway a few weeks ago and I was shifting at or above 4K RPMs in 3d and 4th when I popped a spring out of the clutch. I had no idea what the noise was at the time. The dealer told me that I had multiple misfire codes, I needed new coils, plugs, and a new starter. I replaced all three, but when I replaced the starter I found what looked like rings and grease where the fly-wheel meets the starter. Now I know what those rings are and now I know what that sound was when I pulled onto the highway. I don't plan on keeping this car for forever. I don't peel-out or smoke the tires, but I do shift....aggressively sometimes (I bought this thing to drive it fast, not to look cool). Currently, I'm looking to buy at clutch from Action Clutch, but I don't understand anything about clutches. My engine is an N52. Does anyone know anything about the different clutch types that Action Clutch offers? Can anyone recommend what the best clutch for me would be?
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07-02-2016, 12:48 AM	#2
tlow98 Major General 2188 Rep 5,002 Posts Drives: 2009 E91, 2014 F15 x35i Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Bay Area iTrader: (2)	You didn't mention which car you have; 325, 328 or 330? Most people upgrade to the 330i clutch. It's more robust than the 325/328 and should last you another 170k. I don't think I'd go with anything else unless you're club racing. Clutch is a big job and you want something that will be spot on the first time around.
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07-02-2016, 07:19 AM	#3
Efthreeoh General 17309 Rep 18,733 Posts Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster Join Date: May 2012 Location: Virginia iTrader: (0)	I just replaced my clutch DIY in December. I posted a detailed DIY in the DIY section that you can review to get an idea of what the work entails. The clutch parts are 1) Flywheel 2) Pressure Plate, 3) Clutch Disk - comes with the pressure plate, 4) Throw-out Bearing and Lever - also comes with the pressure plate, and 5) guide bushing (separate part) Here's my advice: Use genuine BMW parts or the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts. Clutch replacement is a very labor intensive job, which includes removal of the exhaust, under panels, driveshaft and transmission. Going back in to replace a non-BMW/OEM part will be almost as expensive as the original job. Get a new dual-mass flywheel - LUK is the OEM (original equipment manufacturer). The dual-mass flywheel tends to break at high mileage and will cause vibration. So even if your flywheel is not broken now, replace it while you are replacing the clutch. The EO (original equipment) flywheel from BMW is $900, you can find it for $500 as OEM; it's the same part. LUK also is the OEM for the pressure plate and it's about $300 on-line. Make sure the mechanic also replaces the guide bushing P/N 23117564680 and uses new bolts P/N 21207548052 (6 ea.) for the pressure plate. The guide bushing (part No. 1 in pic below) will be worn at your mileage so make sure it gets replaced. Some people here will say replace the rear crankshaft seal even if it is not leaking. Professional mechanics will tell you not to replace it if it is not leaking. The reason for this is because there is a 50/50 chance that a new seal will start to leak. Professionals don't want to go in afterwards to repair the seal under warranty. Replacing the seal on the N52 requires special tools and special sealants. If your oil pan gasket is leaking it can trick you into thinking the rear seal is leaking. The rear of the pan protrudes into the bell housing behind the flywheel. The pressure plate has fan blades in it to cool the clutch, which throw the leaking oil all over the place. My bell housing was a mess. The crank seal was dry as a bone (at 293,000 miles). If your oil pan has any type of leak, you may want to have the mechanic replace the pan gasket so everything stays clean after the new clutch is in. I think a reasonable price for a clutch replacement at an Indy is around $1,500 - $1,800 (with a new flywheel) based on what Posters here have reported. I spent about $950 in parts alone for doing it DIY. A few pics of what the parts are. Pic 1 is the clutch (pressure plate kit), Pic 2 is the guide bushing: Attached Images __________________ A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission." Last edited by Efthreeoh; 07-02-2016 at 07:41 AM..
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