A Different Comfort Access Issue

rsyed07 · 07-12-2016, 10:04 AM

I have a comfort access issue different than the ones that come up in the search.

My comfort access locking, unlocking, and trunk opening mechanism just blatantly stopped working in the last couple of weeks. I can't get the driver side nor passenger side doors to lock or unlock using the handle. Both key fobs work great with the buttons, has a new battery in it, and the car starts with the fob on my lap. I keep the fobs at least 50ft away at home.

I checked the 20A fuse 73 and it was good. Is there any other fuse or location that I should check?

The last time my comfort access was working I was washing my car and like a fool had my keys in my pocket so the water splash kept locking and unlocking the car oddly and I feel like that constant on off messed something up since it affected the doors and trunk at the same time.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Wilt · 07-12-2016, 12:59 PM

Have you verified same behavior with both of your CA keys? Your description makes it seem the CA issue is with both fobs...

CA touch to lock and unlock doors and trunk is not functioning
CA Start works fine with fob in pocket

Unlocking
The capacitive sensor in the Electronic Outer Door Handle Module (TAGE) recognizes
that the handle has been grasped and activates the transmit antenna (car). The transmit
antenna sends a 125 kHz signal to the identification transmitter (key). In turn, the identification
transmitter (key) sends a 315 MHz high frequency signal to the remote control receiver (car), which
contains the authentication request.
The CAS2 checks the authentication of the identification transmitter (key).
Following successful authentication, the CAS2 issues the enable signal to unlock the
vehicle and initiates the vehicle unlocking procedure. The JBE executes the unlocking
procedure.

Opening Trunk Lid
An authentication check also takes place before opening the trunk lid, an identification
transmitter must be located within the rear area of the vehicle.
After successful authentication, the trunk lid can be unlocked and opened with the outer
trunk lid button.

rsyed07 · 07-12-2016, 01:09 PM

Yes I get the same behavior with both key fobs. I tested each one individually making sure the other is at least 50 feet away. Yet I still can't get the doors to lock/unlock or trunk to open. Pressing the buttons on the fob open and lock the car like normal but the comfort access isn't functioning. Both remotes have new batteries installed. Both can start the car without the key in the slot. So I'm wondering if something went out with my comfort access module.

I've tried various distances with each key fob in my pocket and the doors do not want to lock or unlock when grasping the handle.

delmarco · 07-12-2016, 01:34 PM

Maybe the keys have to be re-coded or re-programmed after the new batteries are put in. Also if you have the Navigation your iDrive may have programmable options that you can access to turn off and turn on CAS.

Wilt · 07-12-2016, 01:41 PM

Working down the list of possibilities...

the car might not be sensing the CA fobs outside the car when you touch the handles
the transmitter sending the ID request signal to the fob might have quit working
the receiver getting the CA ID from the fob might have quit working
the signal from the car's ID receiver to the CAS might not be working

'

You do NOT need to 'reprogram' a CA fob after battery replacement...the key ID is 'burned into' the key permanently, and the CAS only knows the two currently active CA key IDs programmed into it.

noah.s · 07-12-2016, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsyed07

Yes I get the same behavior with both key fobs. I tested each one individually making sure the other is at least 50 feet away. Yet I still can't get the doors to lock/unlock or trunk to open. Pressing the buttons on the fob open and lock the car like normal but the comfort access isn't functioning. Both remotes have new batteries installed. Both can start the car without the key in the slot. So I'm wondering if something went out with my comfort access module.

I've tried various distances with each key fob in my pocket and the doors do not want to lock or unlock when grasping the handle.

Maybe try starting the car with the key in the slot and then testing comfort access?

Tom K. · 07-12-2016, 03:20 PM

Since the problem seems to be with both keys, is it possible that the new batteries were inserted upside down (reverse polarity)? A long shot, but I've certainly made stupid misteaks like this in the past!

And as I normally wash the car with the fob in my pocket, I've never had a problem after the rapid lock/unlock cycling from the water splashing on the sensor

Tom

rsyed07 · 07-13-2016, 08:20 AM

Here's an update. Trunk opens when the car is locked and armed with key fob detected by running fingers underneath the tag holder. Both driver and passenger side doors still do not work with comfort access. Now some say if your battery voltage is low comfort access may not work. I checked my voltage through the OBC and it rests at 12 to 12.1 volts when off and 14.1 to 14.2 volts when engine is on. However I did get the yellow battery sign briefly while trying to access voltage menu.

Are these voltages within the norm for the white with black top battery? It was replaced in December 2015 at Fields BMW so I can get it replaced under warranty if that's the case.

Wilt · 07-13-2016, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsyed07

I checked my voltage through the OBC and it rests at 12 to 12.1 volts when off and 14.1 to 14.2 volts when engine is on. However I did get the yellow battery sign briefly while trying to access voltage menu.

Are these voltages within the norm for the white with black top battery? It was replaced in December 2015 at Fields BMW so I can get it replaced under warranty if that's the case.

Your battery is fairly discharged. At rest, the battery would read about 12.4-12.6V when well charged, but down at 12.0-12.2 when fairly well discharged; 12.2V indicates only 25% charged.

The 14.2V indicates the charging circuit is working (IBS, alternator, voltage regulator) properly.

You battery could simply be the 'victim' of you driving short drives and insufficient runs of more than 1/2 hour. Battery maintainer is the cure for that kind of driving pattern...or go for a hour drive on the highway,

VTECaddict · 07-14-2016, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noah.s

Maybe try starting the car with the key in the slot and then testing comfort access?

Key in slot disables CA features.

But I would try starting the car with CA (key not in slot), then going outside of the car and see if you can lock and unlock the doors with CA. That might help rule out a low battery issue.

Weak voltage can make the car do weird things.

rsyed07 · 07-15-2016, 08:40 AM

Sent it to the dealer for battery testing. If it is the low voltage issue which I have my money on then I should get a free battery replacement under the 2 year BMW battery warranty. If not I'm down $100 diagnostic fee.

rsyed07 · 07-15-2016, 11:57 AM

So it's diagnosed as a bad Comfort Access module. Somehow it got shorted out. To replace it dealership wants $1000 and change. I think I'll get my own and get it installed at a indy if needed. Will a new CAS module need any coding or programming? I'm assuming it does.

Wilt · 07-15-2016, 12:21 PM

A new CAS module means that it will contain 10 CA key codes, none of which will correspond to any of your existing CA fobs, so you would need to get 2 new CA fobs which are encoded to work with the first two codes already burned in the new CA module memory, unless there is some (unknown to me) way of getting around the problem.

But CAS itself is not supposed to be codeable for key codes, and key fob itself cannot be changed to pair with a different CAS once they have been paired to any car!

Dunno if/how you can get a replacement CAS coded with the same codes as the existing CAS, without going thru a dealer and BMW NA

ptpending · 07-15-2016, 02:50 PM

do not mess CAS module and CA module
if your car can be started now your CAS module is good
you can get used CA module from junkyard but you need to check all wiring and CA antennas to found what is shorted CA module, otherwise your new CA module will be burnt

PichaDis11 · 07-15-2016, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsyed07

So it's diagnosed as a bad Comfort Access module. Somehow it got shorted out. To replace it dealership wants $1000 and change. I think I'll get my own and get it installed at a indy if needed. Will a new CAS module need any coding or programming? I'm assuming it does.

A new CAS Module is not needed. CA Module does not handle identification for a Key. Get a replacement module and have it coded and call it a day.

Hoping this is not misdiagnosis by the dealer. Good luck

3s4u2 · 07-15-2016, 04:15 PM

Don't know if it matters and I'm sure you have taken it in consideration - Is you're valet parking switched on in the clove box?

DaZuc · 07-15-2016, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilt

A new CAS module means that it will contain 10 CA key codes, none of which will correspond to any of your existing CA fobs, so you would need to get 2 new CA fobs which are encoded to work with the first two codes already burned in the new CA module memory, unless there is some (unknown to me) way of getting around the problem.

I thought only 2 CA key codes are stored, and the rest are all just regular keys?

CA can only have 2 keys programmed at one time.

Wilt · 07-16-2016, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaZuc

I thought only 2 CA key codes are stored, and the rest are all just regular keys?

CA can only have 2 keys programmed at one time.

The CAS has TEN key IDs stored within, and BMW NA issues new keys to match the existing 10 ID codes which the CAS expects. And only four keys can be active.

The CA only has TWO keys active for CA function.

ferocity02 · 07-16-2016, 10:58 AM

Do the doors work at all? If you lock it with the key fob buttons will it unlock via CA if you try within 10 seconds of locking? If yes, then its just the battery.

Voltage tells you little to nothing about the condition of a lead acid battery. If the car detects the battery is getting old and tired, it will slowly start turning off functions. CA is one of the first to go along with rear defroster. Does your defroster work?

rsyed07 · 07-18-2016, 08:27 AM

Haven't had to use the defroster yet but I'll test it out. The dealership did see that there's a slight parasitic draw when the car is off but they couldn't pin point it. My car is bone stock inside and out. Not sure what could cause a slight battery discharge. I actually got the "increased battery discharge sign" just yesterday too so I went for a long drive keeping the RPMS above 1500 to engage the alternator.

However I did notice that when unlocking with either of the key fobs via the buttons sometimes even being 2 feet from the car it doesn't open it. I have to finick with it and kind of point at different directions and then it reads the signal to unlock. Both fobs have new batteries in them too.

Wilt · 07-18-2016, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsyed07

The dealership did see that there's a slight parasitic draw when the car is off... Not sure what could cause a slight battery discharge. I actually got the "increased battery discharge sign" just yesterday too

The car knows, when it is 'asleep' that the current draw is more than the usual amount that it expects (about 45 mA) to have while asleep, and that accounts for the '"increased battery discharge' warning.

rsyed07 · 07-18-2016, 09:45 AM

I have a feeling both of my CA door handles had a shortage and are toast. Based on a lot of the CA issues that I have searched most members got the door handles replaced under warranty and it seems to be a issue that happens even when the vehicle is like new or had low mileage.

07-12-2016, 10:04 AM	#1
rsyed07 Captain 175 Rep 595 Posts Drives: E46 330i, E92 13' 335is Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central FL iTrader: (0)	A Different Comfort Access Issue - Issue Found I have a comfort access issue different than the ones that come up in the search. My comfort access locking, unlocking, and trunk opening mechanism just blatantly stopped working in the last couple of weeks. I can't get the driver side nor passenger side doors to lock or unlock using the handle. Both key fobs work great with the buttons, has a new battery in it, and the car starts with the fob on my lap. I keep the fobs at least 50ft away at home. I checked the 20A fuse 73 and it was good. Is there any other fuse or location that I should check? The last time my comfort access was working I was washing my car and like a fool had my keys in my pocket so the water splash kept locking and unlocking the car oddly and I feel like that constant on off messed something up since it affected the doors and trunk at the same time. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! Last edited by rsyed07; 07-15-2016 at 11:56 AM.. Reason: typo
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

07-12-2016, 12:59 PM	#2
Wilt Major 228 Rep 1,045 Posts Drives: 2011 328i Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Bay area iTrader: (0)	Have you verified same behavior with both of your CA keys? Your description makes it seem the CA issue is with both fobs... CA touch to lock and unlock doors and trunk is not functioning CA Start works fine with fob in pocket Unlocking The capacitive sensor in the Electronic Outer Door Handle Module (TAGE) recognizes that the handle has been grasped and activates the transmit antenna (car). The transmit antenna sends a 125 kHz signal to the identification transmitter (key). In turn, the identification transmitter (key) sends a 315 MHz high frequency signal to the remote control receiver (car), which contains the authentication request. The CAS2 checks the authentication of the identification transmitter (key). Following successful authentication, the CAS2 issues the enable signal to unlock the vehicle and initiates the vehicle unlocking procedure. The JBE executes the unlocking procedure. Opening Trunk Lid An authentication check also takes place before opening the trunk lid, an identification transmitter must be located within the rear area of the vehicle. After successful authentication, the trunk lid can be unlocked and opened with the outer trunk lid button.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-12-2016, 01:09 PM	#3
rsyed07 Captain 175 Rep 595 Posts Drives: E46 330i, E92 13' 335is Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central FL iTrader: (0)	Yes I get the same behavior with both key fobs. I tested each one individually making sure the other is at least 50 feet away. Yet I still can't get the doors to lock/unlock or trunk to open. Pressing the buttons on the fob open and lock the car like normal but the comfort access isn't functioning. Both remotes have new batteries installed. Both can start the car without the key in the slot. So I'm wondering if something went out with my comfort access module. I've tried various distances with each key fob in my pocket and the doors do not want to lock or unlock when grasping the handle.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-12-2016, 01:34 PM	#4
delmarco Major 494 Rep 1,416 Posts Drives: 2011 335xi Deep Sea Blue Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Westchester County, NY iTrader: (1)	Maybe the keys have to be re-coded or re-programmed after the new batteries are put in. Also if you have the Navigation your iDrive may have programmable options that you can access to turn off and turn on CAS. __________________ VISIT MY GARAGE TO SEE MY BMW E90 MODS: http://directory.e46fanatics.com/use...Mod&UcId=20832
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-12-2016, 01:41 PM	#5
Wilt Major 228 Rep 1,045 Posts Drives: 2011 328i Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Bay area iTrader: (0)	Working down the list of possibilities... the car might not be sensing the CA fobs outside the car when you touch the handles the transmitter sending the ID request signal to the fob might have quit working the receiver getting the CA ID from the fob might have quit working the signal from the car's ID receiver to the CAS might not be working ' You do NOT need to 'reprogram' a CA fob after battery replacement...the key ID is 'burned into' the key permanently, and the CAS only knows the two currently active CA key IDs programmed into it. Last edited by Wilt; 07-12-2016 at 02:00 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-12-2016, 03:20 PM	#7
Tom K. Major General 124 Rep 5,627 Posts Drives: '07 328iT, '13 Boxster Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	Since the problem seems to be with both keys, is it possible that the new batteries were inserted upside down (reverse polarity)? A long shot, but I've certainly made stupid misteaks like this in the past! And as I normally wash the car with the fob in my pocket, I've never had a problem after the rapid lock/unlock cycling from the water splashing on the sensor Tom
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-13-2016, 08:20 AM	#8
rsyed07 Captain 175 Rep 595 Posts Drives: E46 330i, E92 13' 335is Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central FL iTrader: (0)	Here's an update. Trunk opens when the car is locked and armed with key fob detected by running fingers underneath the tag holder. Both driver and passenger side doors still do not work with comfort access. Now some say if your battery voltage is low comfort access may not work. I checked my voltage through the OBC and it rests at 12 to 12.1 volts when off and 14.1 to 14.2 volts when engine is on. However I did get the yellow battery sign briefly while trying to access voltage menu. Are these voltages within the norm for the white with black top battery? It was replaced in December 2015 at Fields BMW so I can get it replaced under warranty if that's the case.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-15-2016, 08:40 AM	#11
rsyed07 Captain 175 Rep 595 Posts Drives: E46 330i, E92 13' 335is Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central FL iTrader: (0)	Sent it to the dealer for battery testing. If it is the low voltage issue which I have my money on then I should get a free battery replacement under the 2 year BMW battery warranty. If not I'm down $100 diagnostic fee.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-15-2016, 11:57 AM	#12
rsyed07 Captain 175 Rep 595 Posts Drives: E46 330i, E92 13' 335is Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central FL iTrader: (0)	So it's diagnosed as a bad Comfort Access module. Somehow it got shorted out. To replace it dealership wants $1000 and change. I think I'll get my own and get it installed at a indy if needed. Will a new CAS module need any coding or programming? I'm assuming it does.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-15-2016, 12:21 PM	#13
Wilt Major 228 Rep 1,045 Posts Drives: 2011 328i Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Bay area iTrader: (0)	A new CAS module means that it will contain 10 CA key codes, none of which will correspond to any of your existing CA fobs, so you would need to get 2 new CA fobs which are encoded to work with the first two codes already burned in the new CA module memory, unless there is some (unknown to me) way of getting around the problem. But CAS itself is not supposed to be codeable for key codes, and key fob itself cannot be changed to pair with a different CAS once they have been paired to any car! Dunno if/how you can get a replacement CAS coded with the same codes as the existing CAS, without going thru a dealer and BMW NA Last edited by Wilt; 07-15-2016 at 12:33 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-15-2016, 02:50 PM	#14
ptpending Colonel 456 Rep 2,749 Posts Drives: e91 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Poland iTrader: (1)	do not mess CAS module and CA module if your car can be started now your CAS module is good you can get used CA module from junkyard but you need to check all wiring and CA antennas to found what is shorted CA module, otherwise your new CA module will be burnt __________________ E81 2007 130i 6cylinder Montego blue Retrofits: Harman Kardon, High-beam assistant, Removable tow hitch. Auto-dim folding exterior mirrors. Lumbar support. Perfomance Brakes.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-15-2016, 04:15 PM	#16
3s4u2 Beamer Mantic 82 Rep 1,191 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Prem Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Don't know if it matters and I'm sure you have taken it in consideration - Is you're valet parking switched on in the clove box? __________________ 2006 325i 2006 M5 2008 X5 4.8i 2014 X5 50i M-Pkg
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-16-2016, 10:58 AM	#19
ferocity02 Colonel 530 Rep 2,083 Posts Drives: 2013 135is Join Date: May 2014 Location: USA iTrader: (8)	Do the doors work at all? If you lock it with the key fob buttons will it unlock via CA if you try within 10 seconds of locking? If yes, then its just the battery. Voltage tells you little to nothing about the condition of a lead acid battery. If the car detects the battery is getting old and tired, it will slowly start turning off functions. CA is one of the first to go along with rear defroster. Does your defroster work?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-18-2016, 08:27 AM	#20
rsyed07 Captain 175 Rep 595 Posts Drives: E46 330i, E92 13' 335is Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central FL iTrader: (0)	Haven't had to use the defroster yet but I'll test it out. The dealership did see that there's a slight parasitic draw when the car is off but they couldn't pin point it. My car is bone stock inside and out. Not sure what could cause a slight battery discharge. I actually got the "increased battery discharge sign" just yesterday too so I went for a long drive keeping the RPMS above 1500 to engage the alternator. However I did notice that when unlocking with either of the key fobs via the buttons sometimes even being 2 feet from the car it doesn't open it. I have to finick with it and kind of point at different directions and then it reads the signal to unlock. Both fobs have new batteries in them too.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-18-2016, 09:45 AM	#22
rsyed07 Captain 175 Rep 595 Posts Drives: E46 330i, E92 13' 335is Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central FL iTrader: (0)	I have a feeling both of my CA door handles had a shortage and are toast. Based on a lot of the CA issues that I have searched most members got the door handles replaced under warranty and it seems to be a issue that happens even when the vehicle is like new or had low mileage.
	Appreciate 0 Quote