Motor mounts DIY

psiv92 · 08-06-2016, 06:42 PM

Hello, I have done quite a bit of research and have not found any info other than replacing the passenger with the upgraded 335is mount. Does anyone have any info or could point me in the right direction?

I do have the bentley manual and have not found anything useful in there.

TIA

kkasson · 08-06-2016, 07:23 PM

Check out the oil pan gasket DIY. The motor mounts have to come out to get to the oil pan gasket, so it should show you everything you need to do to get the mounts out.

Efthreeoh · 08-07-2016, 06:26 AM

The OPG DIY sort of addresses the engine mounts but doesn't delve into completely removing them. Looking at the schematic on realOEM there is just one M10 nut on top to remove the mounts. I've done the OPG procedure, and with it you remove the two lower mount bolts on the subframe side. I read the DIY you referenced; I don't see why it is necessary to remove the engine support from the engine block, if do you need to get new bolts because the bolts are one-time use aluminum. Not having actually replaced the mounts, but being quite familiar with underside of the engine here's how I'd remove the mounts.

Note that this is dangerous work because the engine will be raised off the mounts for a period of time. I highly recommend using an engine support bar once the engine is lifted off the mounts.

Once the car is supported safely on 4 jack stands:

1) Remove the air box. Two 10MM-head bolts. Unplug the MAF. Loosen the band clamp on the intake plenum.
2) Un-mount the coolant reservoir - two 10MM-head bolts
3) Remove the top side M10 flange nut for each mount. 15 or 16MM socket.
4) Remove the plastic engine lower shield (belly pan) - (16) 8MM-headed bolts.
5) Remove the plastic radiator splash shield.
6) Un-mount the plastic heater hose that runs across the front of the subframe. It has 3 Torx bolts, two on the subframe in front of the engine and one Torx bolt on the right-side (drivers side). This will allow lifting of the engine without putting stress on the heater hose - I figured this out doing the OPG.
7) Raise the engine using a jack to clear the top mount stud from the engine support: for steel oil pans use the front of the block (behind the harmonic balancer), you'll need a block of 2x4 with a "V" cut on one end to cradle the engine block. For the aluminum pan you can raise the engine using the oil pan. The engine can be raised easily 4 inches.
8) Support the engine with a support bar.
9) On each mount, remove the two Torx bolts holding the mount to the subframe.
10) Removing one mount at a time: Pop the mount out of the subframe. Note there is a locating pin on the mount that positions it on the subframe.
11) Install the new mount in proper position with the pin and reinstall the two Trox bolts mounting it to the subframe.
12) Once both new mounts are attached to the subframe remove the engine support bar and slowly lower the engine onto the top mount stud.
13) reinstall the top-side flange nuts
14) Remove the jack and replace the radiator splash shield and belly pan.
15) remount the coolant reservoir and air box.

psiv92 · 08-07-2016, 11:17 AM

Awesome! I appreciate the help

PhaseP · 08-07-2016, 11:36 AM

There are DIYs but they are for N52 NA engine.

One I know is pelican parts, in the comments section some people give steps for 335:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

This is RM European mostly for N52 XI engines but gives ideas:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e90-en...placement.aspx

Note if you do the lifting one side of the engine by keeping the other engine mount bolted as a pivot point as mentioned in the DIYs above, I suggest do not untighten the pivot point side engine mount much. The lower that side is as a pivot point, the easier and higher the other free side goes up for replacement.

Another suggestion, when you are lifting the engine up from below like that, keep an eye on the top, some parts of the engine may come up to touch the strut tower mounts. My N52 MAP sensor on the end of the intake manifold almost got crushed this way. The power steering fluid reservoir was also getting in the way of the intake tube.

If you have an engine support bar and fine with using it to hang the engine from top, that would make it much easier. Above DIYs do it without engine support bar.

08-06-2016, 06:42 PM	#1
psiv92 New Member 2 Rep 24 Posts Drives: 07 335i Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Minnesota iTrader: (0)	Motor mounts DIY Hello, I have done quite a bit of research and have not found any info other than replacing the passenger with the upgraded 335is mount. Does anyone have any info or could point me in the right direction? I do have the bentley manual and have not found anything useful in there. TIA
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08-06-2016, 07:23 PM	#2
kkasson Lieutenant 187 Rep 589 Posts Drives: 07 BMW 328i, 08 BMW 528i Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: CA iTrader: (0)	Check out the oil pan gasket DIY. The motor mounts have to come out to get to the oil pan gasket, so it should show you everything you need to do to get the mounts out.
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08-07-2016, 06:26 AM	#3
Efthreeoh General 17315 Rep 18,737 Posts Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster Join Date: May 2012 Location: Virginia iTrader: (0)	The OPG DIY sort of addresses the engine mounts but doesn't delve into completely removing them. Looking at the schematic on realOEM there is just one M10 nut on top to remove the mounts. I've done the OPG procedure, and with it you remove the two lower mount bolts on the subframe side. I read the DIY you referenced; I don't see why it is necessary to remove the engine support from the engine block, if do you need to get new bolts because the bolts are one-time use aluminum. Not having actually replaced the mounts, but being quite familiar with underside of the engine here's how I'd remove the mounts. Note that this is dangerous work because the engine will be raised off the mounts for a period of time. I highly recommend using an engine support bar once the engine is lifted off the mounts. Once the car is supported safely on 4 jack stands: 1) Remove the air box. Two 10MM-head bolts. Unplug the MAF. Loosen the band clamp on the intake plenum. 2) Un-mount the coolant reservoir - two 10MM-head bolts 3) Remove the top side M10 flange nut for each mount. 15 or 16MM socket. 4) Remove the plastic engine lower shield (belly pan) - (16) 8MM-headed bolts. 5) Remove the plastic radiator splash shield. 6) Un-mount the plastic heater hose that runs across the front of the subframe. It has 3 Torx bolts, two on the subframe in front of the engine and one Torx bolt on the right-side (drivers side). This will allow lifting of the engine without putting stress on the heater hose - I figured this out doing the OPG. 7) Raise the engine using a jack to clear the top mount stud from the engine support: for steel oil pans use the front of the block (behind the harmonic balancer), you'll need a block of 2x4 with a "V" cut on one end to cradle the engine block. For the aluminum pan you can raise the engine using the oil pan. The engine can be raised easily 4 inches. 8) Support the engine with a support bar. 9) On each mount, remove the two Torx bolts holding the mount to the subframe. 10) Removing one mount at a time: Pop the mount out of the subframe. Note there is a locating pin on the mount that positions it on the subframe. 11) Install the new mount in proper position with the pin and reinstall the two Trox bolts mounting it to the subframe. 12) Once both new mounts are attached to the subframe remove the engine support bar and slowly lower the engine onto the top mount stud. 13) reinstall the top-side flange nuts 14) Remove the jack and replace the radiator splash shield and belly pan. 15) remount the coolant reservoir and air box. Attached Images __________________ A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission." Last edited by Efthreeoh; 08-07-2016 at 06:33 AM..
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08-07-2016, 11:17 AM	#4
psiv92 New Member 2 Rep 24 Posts Drives: 07 335i Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Minnesota iTrader: (0)	Awesome! I appreciate the help
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08-07-2016, 11:36 AM	#5
PhaseP Colonel 1007 Rep 2,108 Posts Drives: 325XI Join Date: May 2010 Location: Earth iTrader: (0)	There are DIYs but they are for N52 NA engine. One I know is pelican parts, in the comments section some people give steps for 335: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm This is RM European mostly for N52 XI engines but gives ideas: http://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e90-en...placement.aspx Note if you do the lifting one side of the engine by keeping the other engine mount bolted as a pivot point as mentioned in the DIYs above, I suggest do not untighten the pivot point side engine mount much. The lower that side is as a pivot point, the easier and higher the other free side goes up for replacement. Another suggestion, when you are lifting the engine up from below like that, keep an eye on the top, some parts of the engine may come up to touch the strut tower mounts. My N52 MAP sensor on the end of the intake manifold almost got crushed this way. The power steering fluid reservoir was also getting in the way of the intake tube. If you have an engine support bar and fine with using it to hang the engine from top, that would make it much easier. Above DIYs do it without engine support bar.
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