[Kenneykickin]

2009 335i approx 64k miles, purchased from dealer with 57k on it. I know the water pumps are notorious for going out around this Milage.

I woke up with a pile of coolant on the floor about mid car is that where the water pump is located? I bought an extended warranty but hoses are not covered so I got underneath un bolted the guard and took a look I didn't see any brittle hoses or anything so I'm thinking it may be the water pump?

I put some distilled water in it and ran it while I was under the car and sAw no leaks but I'm scared to run it for long. My dad said it most likely wouldn't leak from the t stat or water pump until the car is warmed up?

Anybody have any ideas? I'm gonna tow it to the dealer Tuesday.

[MiamiVice335]

I'm an expert with the cooling system on these cars. The system is highly pressurized so yes in order to see leaks you should drive the car and look for leaks once up to temp. Are you getting a low coolant warning on your dash? It's not real common to see leaks at the pump or thermostat. More common is the expansion tank or the return line which runs over the top of the radiator (they get brittle and break).

[NiNeTyOne]

If you have the Carly app you can see the pump RPM, it's a great indicator that it's going bad if the rpm's drop.

I forget what they should run at, but they drop off pretty quick then they start to go.

[Bamaben]

Replace it now whether it's going bad or not. 64k is pushing its useful life. Mine went at 66k

[Efthreeoh]

If the floor is level, I'd say it's just AC condensation. The AC drain is at the middle of the car.

[muncie21]

It's pretty common for the plastic WPA housing to leak. Get it fixed now before you get stranded

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by NiNeTyOne

If you have the Carly app you can see the pump RPM, it's a great indicator that it's going bad if the rpm's drop.

I forget what they should run at, but they drop off pretty quick then they start to go.

This. Odd pump RPM and water pump error codes will occur before failure. Check there first.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by MiamiVice335

I'm an expert with the cooling system on these cars. The system is highly pressurized so yes in order to see leaks you should drive the car and look for leaks once up to temp. Are you getting a low coolant warning on your dash? It's not real common to see leaks at the pump or thermostat. More common is the expansion tank or the return line which runs over the top of the radiator (they get brittle and break).

Yes I'm getting the warning but only after I drive the car and it warms up, so it' must only be leaking when I'm driving, or when the car is warm. I live like 7 miles from the dealer should I tow it or do you think I'm safe to drive it but topping it off before?

Does this sound like the water pump or t stat needs replaced? Or could it be a possible hose? Thanks for you're input.

On top by the expansion tank their is very little signs of coolant like very little specks so nothing major, besides the huge puddle of coolant on my garage and I need to edit it actually was after driving it for awhile so it was warmed up when it leaked all of the coolant.

[Kenneykickin]

I don't have the Carly app just a basic cheapie scanner.

I'm just wondering because I don't think hoses are considered covert under warranty since its consider maintaince but I'm assuming a water pump and t stay may be.

[sk55]

Originally Posted by MiamiVice335

I'm an expert with the cooling system on these cars. The system is highly pressurized so yes in order to see leaks you should drive the car and look for leaks once up to temp. Are you getting a low coolant warning on your dash? It's not real common to see leaks at the pump or thermostat. More common is the expansion tank or the return line which runs over the top of the radiator (they get brittle and break).

your saying the thermostat leaks toos?

[sk55]

Originally Posted by Kenneykickin

2009 335i approx 64k miles, purchased from dealer with 57k on it. I know the water pumps are notorious for going out around this Milage.

I woke up with a pile of coolant on the floor about mid car is that where the water pump is located? I bought an extended warranty but hoses are not covered so I got underneath un bolted the guard and took a look I didn't see any brittle hoses or anything so I'm thinking it may be the water pump?

I put some distilled water in it and ran it while I was under the car and sAw no leaks but I'm scared to run it for long. My dad said it most likely wouldn't leak from the t stat or water pump until the car is warmed up?

Anybody have any ideas? I'm gonna tow it to the dealer Tuesday.

take some of the spill dab on it something... coolant usually drys a powdery white... this is on on other cars... but should be the same on the bimmer.

[Efthreeoh]

OP, a few questions:

1 - How often does the low coolant notification come on?
2 - How many times in the last month did you need to top off the coolant level?
3 - Do you smell coolant?
4 - Is the liquid you found "mid car" blue or clear and how much was there?
5 - Was the top-side of the engine belly pan wet?

[roadkillrob]

Mid car would not be coolant, put some on your fingers and rub it between your fingers, if it is slick, it is coolant or oil, if it isn't slick it is water.

Mid car, there are 2 things that leak out, AC condensation (water) and automatic transmission fluid (usually from the rear of the trans, leak occurs around the electrical connector.

If it is closer to the middle front of the car, rear main seal can leak and it would be engine oil.

If it is closer to the passenger side tire and appears to be coolant, then it is typically the plastic coolant tank that will crack and leak.

Waterpump failing will generally not leak, it just stops working, so if you are loosing coolant, it is more likely to be the tank or a fitting hose (car uses lots of plastic in the cooling system, so thinks can crack due to impacts, or other maintenance where someone damages a component.

Waterpump is actually at the front of the car just ahead of the front axle to the passenger side.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

OP, a few questions:

1 - How often does the low coolant notification come on?
2 - How many times in the last month did you need to top off the coolant level?
3 - Do you smell coolant?
4 - Is the liquid you found "mid car" blue or clear and how much was there?
5 - Was the top-side of the engine belly pan wet?

1 - the coolant notification has came on twice. Both times that I drove it first time I topped it off second time it happened and I realized the expansion tank was completely empty after topping it off I parked it and haven't drive it since.
2- 2
3 - no I don't
4 - yes it was blue.
5- yes

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by roadkillrob

Mid car would not be coolant, put some on your fingers and rub it between your fingers, if it is slick, it is coolant or oil, if it isn't slick it is water.

Mid car, there are 2 things that leak out, AC condensation (water) and automatic transmission fluid (usually from the rear of the trans, leak occurs around the electrical connector.

If it is closer to the middle front of the car, rear main seal can leak and it would be engine oil.

If it is closer to the passenger side tire and appears to be coolant, then it is typically the plastic coolant tank that will crack and leak.

Waterpump failing will generally not leak, it just stops working, so if you are loosing coolant, it is more likely to be the tank or a fitting hose (car uses lots of plastic in the cooling system, so thinks can crack due to impacts, or other maintenance where someone damages a component.

Waterpump is actually at the front of the car just ahead of the front axle to the passenger side.

Thank you for you're reply. It is defintely coolant, it's very slick and blue.

That is really weird cause yes it was mid car but more to the driver side

[Wilt]

Originally Posted by Bamaben

Replace it now whether it's going bad or not. 64k is pushing its useful life. Mine went at 66k

A poll of users shows that only about 30% fail in the 60-80K range, another 30% fail by 100K, another 30% fail by 120K or so, and we have heard of some working at 200K !

[Bamaben]

Originally Posted by Wilt

A poll of users shows that only about 30% fail in the 60-80K range, another 30% fail by 100K, another 30% fail by 120K or so, and we have heard of some working at 200K !

Well then 99% of the first third post their failures while only 1% of the last third post theirs.
OP needs to replace his WP and Tstat

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by Bamaben

Well then 99% of the first third post their failures while only 1% of the last third post theirs.
OP needs to replace his WP and Tstat

Thanks for the reply, will be taking it in Tursday and I'll keep everyone updated on what happeneds

[mweisdorfer]

If you opened up the coolant reservoir, then you have to re-pressurize the system.

BMW coolant is blue.

Put a battery charger on.

Push start button w/ out starting the car. So, keep your foot off the break pedal.

Turn your heat on high on both dials

Put it on one bar, as far as fan speed goes

Press the accelerator down to the floor for 10 seconds or so and listen.

When you hear the water pump go on, take your foot off the accelerator.

Wait 15 minutes

Also, if you can activate the water pump, it's not bad. At least not yet.

If it were me, I would put the car on Jack stands or ramps and take the pan off. Start the car. Go underneath w/ an led flash light and see which coolant pipe is leaking.

You can get a part number from BMW fans off of the schematics

[Bamaben]

Originally Posted by Kenneykickin

Thanks for the reply, will be taking it in Tursday and I'll keep everyone updated on what happeneds

Good luck man. Hope that solves your issue.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you opened up the coolant reservoir, then you have to re-pressurize the system.

BMW coolant is blue.

Put a battery charger on.

Push start button w/ out starting the car. So, keep your foot off the break pedal.

Turn your heat on high on both dials

Put it on one bar, as far as fan speed goes

Press the accelerator down to the floor for 10 seconds or so and listen.

When you hear the water pump go on, take your foot off the accelerator.

Wait 15 minutes

Also, if you can activate the water pump, it's not bad. At least not yet.

If it were me, I would put the car on Jack stands or ramps and take the pan off. Start the car. Go underneath w/ an led flash light and see which coolant pipe is leaking.

You can get a part number from BMW fans off of the schematics

Yea the car is on ramps right now with the pan off so I can look for leaks but in not seeing any of any brittle hoses. So I'm hoping it is the water pump and t stat and get it replaced under warranty and just get it over with since a lot of members say they do go around 60-80k

[cahme]

From what I've read, I'm putting my 2 cents on the expansion tank leaking at the seam where the top & bottom are bonded. After driving it at full operating temp, shut engine off, pop hood and look & listen for a leak around the expansion tank.