12-09-2016, 09:21 PM | #1 |
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tips for changing pads and torque value for rear brake
Have spent(a.k.a waste) over 250 dollars on the brake squeak issue. motherfxxker. 50 each for each axle lube. 50 later for chamfering rear pad. 84 rip-off by fxxking dealer to "inspect" (of course didn't do nothing, only messed up the lug nut torque spec and washed my car using their evil machine!).
okay, enough is enough. I am taking the matter into my own hands! Have these already - 1/2'' torque wrench - extension bar - a set of 3/8'' sockets and ratchet, combo tool - 1/2'' breaker bar - 3 adaptor from 1/2'' to 3/8'', to 1/4'' I bought this textar pads I watched another post here about changing pads http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1116901 Not that hard really. anything else I need? - Where do I need to apply anti-seize?grease? - Do I need to chamfer the pad? Can I keep the "old"(14 months old) rotor? fxxking dealer says I need to buy new rotors as well, or squeak won't go away. It feels smooth enough. Just sandpaper it maybe? What kind of sandpaper to get? Maybe I am going to take the calliper off, clean it. What is the torque spec on this? I only find front brake spec. Thanks for any tips!!!!! |
12-12-2016, 08:55 AM | #3 |
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Don't use regular grease or anti-seize compound on the brake pads..thats a recipe for a bad time. There's "disc brake quiet" which comes in a tube. Just apply it to the area of the pad where it comes in contact with the caliper (around the edges) and where the piston comes in contact with the pads (the flat surface). It should be pretty clear once you take the pad off what areas contact the caliper, because it'll have an imprint on the pad. If the squeal isn't terrible then I'd probably leave it though. My brakes squeal a bit especially when it's cold or wet out. I have brand new Stop-tech pads and R1 rotors on my 335...This is expected for performance brakes though.
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12-12-2016, 08:59 AM | #4 | |
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12-12-2016, 01:05 PM | #5 | |
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