Fxx Brake Job is EASY!

Wires · 12-29-2016, 06:21 PM

I did the brakes in my E90, and they were 2x harder than my F30. If you need to do brakes on a Fxx, really easy to do, and requires minimal tools.

My car has m-sport brakes (but I doubt much is different than non-m-sport). You only need a couple of tools:
1) 18mm wrench/socket for the front caliper bolts.
2) 16mm wrench/socket for the rear caliper bolts.
3) Flat screw driver to pop off the brake sensors.
4) Small punch/hammer to drive out the caliper pins.
5) Caliper spreader (in my case the mileage was low enough, it wasn't needed).
6) 6mm allan socket (to remove the rotor).

If you haven't swapped the brakes on this body style, it's easiest to start on the passenger front (then there is no pad sensor, and the caliper is in a easier location so you can figure out how it comes apart).

Steps:
1) Remove the wheel.
2) Using the small punch, drive the two pad retaining pins backwards (from outside to inside). Don't fully remove the pins yet though.
3) Using the 18mm (front calipers) or 16mm (rear calipers), remove the two caliper retaining bolts that holds the caliper to the axle assembly.
4) Pull the caliper off the rotor, and look at how the rattle clip is installed. Then pull out the two pad pins and rattle clip.
5) Use the caliper spreader to push the pistons back in.
6) Clean up the caliper, pad pins, and rattle clip.
7) Remove the rotor by removing the 6mm alan locator screw.
8) Clean the new rotor, re-install with the 6mm alan screw.
9) Grease the piston surfaces and pad pins.
10) Slide the new pads in from the top of the caliper, and install one of the pad pins (use a hammer to tap it into place).
11) Install the anti-rattle clip under than pin, and then hold the other end down while sliding in the second pin, and hammer into place.
12) Slide the caliper back into the rotor, and secure with the two bolts.
13) Re-install the tire.

Once you have done the first one (and see how that rattle clip is installed), you can fully remove those pins while the caliper is still mounted to the axle.

For the Driver front and Passenger rear (with the wear sensors), it's easier to loosen both caliper bolts, but remove just the bottom one. Then rotate the caliper up a bit, and use a flat screw driver to pop the sensor off the pad (that way you don't have to fight the caliper while removing it). Then remove the other bolt.

You can fully install the caliper, and then clip the wear sensor back into the pad.

I hope those tips are helpful for others looking for a DIY brake job. I was just swapping the pads, and that took about 2 hours in the garage with a floor jack (leisurely). Adding rotors to the mix would have added ~1/2 hour.

FVierra27 · 12-30-2016, 01:31 PM

You put the EBC Redstuff pads in right? How do they feel compared to your M-Sport pads?

Dr Thrillride · 12-30-2016, 03:36 PM

Sub'd

insanecoder · 12-30-2016, 04:03 PM

Wow 340i brake job already?

Wires · 12-30-2016, 08:47 PM

Yes, they are the red stuff pads. OEM squealed like hell, and dust was unbearable. I'm typically really easy on brakes, and my E90 lasted to 100,000km (60k miles) before they were due. Stocks were fine, I just didn't want to clean rims for another 8 years before the stocks wore out.

I'm still in the bed in phase, but they bite a lot quicker, and seem to slow the car faster than the m-sport pads (that might be a bi-product of the wear coating they put on them though). So far, really pleased though.

the dope steez · 12-30-2016, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wires

Yes, they are the red stuff pads. OEM squealed like hell, and dust was unbearable. I'm typically really easy on brakes, and my E90 lasted to 100,000km (60k miles) before they were due. Stocks were fine, I just didn't want to clean rims for another 8 years before the stocks wore out.

I'm still in the bed in phase, but they bite a lot quicker, and seem to slow the car faster than the m-sport pads (that might be a bi-product of the wear coating they put on them though). So far, really pleased though.

Wow didn't know it was possible to get any easier than the E90, good to know!

Wires · 12-30-2016, 08:56 PM

I found on the E90, it was hard to get those pad bolts out (they seemed to rust/stick into those rubber boots), anti-rattle clip was a bear to uninstall/install, and the pads were tricky to get back into their "grooves" on the calipers.

F30, pads just float in there, so you just drop them into place, and push in the retaining pin.

FVierra27 · 12-31-2016, 02:25 AM

Keep us posted after break in. I HATE how dusty my wheels get the same day as a wash.

Wires · 01-01-2017, 02:05 PM

Will do. The car came with the 19" grey coated wheels, so I didn't think the m-sport brakes had that much dust. Switching to silver replicas for winter was an eye opener!

mr_kay · 01-01-2017, 02:32 PM

Yup, brakes on these cars are super easy. Should also be notes that if you're doing the 4 piston front brakes and just doing the pads only, you don't need to remove any bolts. Just the 2 pins and then the pads slide out after you remove the retaining clip. Less than 5 mins each side if you're just doing pads.

RM7 · 01-01-2017, 05:27 PM

You swapped the brakes? Sounds like you just replaced pads?

Polo08816 · 01-02-2017, 08:12 AM

Complete ISTAD documentation on front, rear, and parking brakes.

Wires · 01-02-2017, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes

You swapped the brakes? Sounds like you just replaced pads?

Sorry, yes, it was just pads. Once you get the calipers off, rotors are just a matter of removing that one alignment screw, and cleaning the oil off the new rotors.

I was just surprised how easy swapping pads were. I found the E90 a lot harder to get the pads in and out as well as that rattle clip.

Wires · 01-02-2017, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Complete ISTAD documentation on front, rear, and parking brakes.

Thanks! Saved for next time.

FVierra27 · 01-30-2017, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wires

I did the brakes in my E90, and they were 2x harder than my F30. If you need to do brakes on a Fxx, really easy to do, and requires minimal tools.

Any updates on the pads?

Wires · 02-01-2017, 09:06 AM

Just finished the bedding in yesterday.

I'm VERY impressed with them so far. Super quiet, initial bite is remarkable. I find when you go through the car wash, and they are wet coming out, the bite is the same as the OEM pads when dry. With the wet OEM pads, the car felt really "heavy" unit the rotors dried off.

If you really get on the brakes now, the car has you pinned to the windshield. Dust is almost non-existent now.

I highly recommend doing the swap. I don't track the car, so I cannot comment on fade resistance though.

12-29-2016, 06:21 PM	#1
Wires Brigadier General 1646 Rep 4,877 Posts Drives: 2016 340i xDrive Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary iTrader: (0)	Fxx Brake Job is EASY! I did the brakes in my E90, and they were 2x harder than my F30. If you need to do brakes on a Fxx, really easy to do, and requires minimal tools. My car has m-sport brakes (but I doubt much is different than non-m-sport). You only need a couple of tools: 1) 18mm wrench/socket for the front caliper bolts. 2) 16mm wrench/socket for the rear caliper bolts. 3) Flat screw driver to pop off the brake sensors. 4) Small punch/hammer to drive out the caliper pins. 5) Caliper spreader (in my case the mileage was low enough, it wasn't needed). 6) 6mm allan socket (to remove the rotor). If you haven't swapped the brakes on this body style, it's easiest to start on the passenger front (then there is no pad sensor, and the caliper is in a easier location so you can figure out how it comes apart). Steps: 1) Remove the wheel. 2) Using the small punch, drive the two pad retaining pins backwards (from outside to inside). Don't fully remove the pins yet though. 3) Using the 18mm (front calipers) or 16mm (rear calipers), remove the two caliper retaining bolts that holds the caliper to the axle assembly. 4) Pull the caliper off the rotor, and look at how the rattle clip is installed. Then pull out the two pad pins and rattle clip. 5) Use the caliper spreader to push the pistons back in. 6) Clean up the caliper, pad pins, and rattle clip. 7) Remove the rotor by removing the 6mm alan locator screw. 8) Clean the new rotor, re-install with the 6mm alan screw. 9) Grease the piston surfaces and pad pins. 10) Slide the new pads in from the top of the caliper, and install one of the pad pins (use a hammer to tap it into place). 11) Install the anti-rattle clip under than pin, and then hold the other end down while sliding in the second pin, and hammer into place. 12) Slide the caliper back into the rotor, and secure with the two bolts. 13) Re-install the tire. Once you have done the first one (and see how that rattle clip is installed), you can fully remove those pins while the caliper is still mounted to the axle. For the Driver front and Passenger rear (with the wear sensors), it's easier to loosen both caliper bolts, but remove just the bottom one. Then rotate the caliper up a bit, and use a flat screw driver to pop the sensor off the pad (that way you don't have to fight the caliper while removing it). Then remove the other bolt. You can fully install the caliper, and then clip the wear sensor back into the pad. I hope those tips are helpful for others looking for a DIY brake job. I was just swapping the pads, and that took about 2 hours in the garage with a floor jack (leisurely). Adding rotors to the mix would have added ~1/2 hour.
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12-30-2016, 01:31 PM	#2
FVierra27 Private First Class 31 Rep 98 Posts Drives: 2014 335i M Sport Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Morgan Hill, CA iTrader: (0)	You put the EBC Redstuff pads in right? How do they feel compared to your M-Sport pads?
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12-30-2016, 03:36 PM	#3
Dr Thrillride Major 1399 Rep 1,070 Posts Drives: 2022 M8cs Join Date: May 2016 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2022 BMW M8 comp coupe [0.00]	Sub'd
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12-30-2016, 04:03 PM	#4
insanecoder Banned 1412 Rep 3,211 Posts Drives: 340isDrive Join Date: May 2016 Location: East Coast USA iTrader: (0)	Wow 340i brake job already?
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12-30-2016, 08:47 PM	#5
Wires Brigadier General 1646 Rep 4,877 Posts Drives: 2016 340i xDrive Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary iTrader: (0)	Yes, they are the red stuff pads. OEM squealed like hell, and dust was unbearable. I'm typically really easy on brakes, and my E90 lasted to 100,000km (60k miles) before they were due. Stocks were fine, I just didn't want to clean rims for another 8 years before the stocks wore out. I'm still in the bed in phase, but they bite a lot quicker, and seem to slow the car faster than the m-sport pads (that might be a bi-product of the wear coating they put on them though). So far, really pleased though.
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12-30-2016, 08:56 PM	#7
Wires Brigadier General 1646 Rep 4,877 Posts Drives: 2016 340i xDrive Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary iTrader: (0)	I found on the E90, it was hard to get those pad bolts out (they seemed to rust/stick into those rubber boots), anti-rattle clip was a bear to uninstall/install, and the pads were tricky to get back into their "grooves" on the calipers. F30, pads just float in there, so you just drop them into place, and push in the retaining pin.
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12-31-2016, 02:25 AM	#8
FVierra27 Private First Class 31 Rep 98 Posts Drives: 2014 335i M Sport Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Morgan Hill, CA iTrader: (0)	Keep us posted after break in. I HATE how dusty my wheels get the same day as a wash. __________________ M Performance mirrors, spoiler, and exhaust, BMS wheel spacers (10mm F 15mm R), ER kittyless DP. Need a tune and intercooler
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01-01-2017, 02:05 PM	#9
Wires Brigadier General 1646 Rep 4,877 Posts Drives: 2016 340i xDrive Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary iTrader: (0)	Will do. The car came with the 19" grey coated wheels, so I didn't think the m-sport brakes had that much dust. Switching to silver replicas for winter was an eye opener!
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01-01-2017, 02:32 PM	#10
mr_kay First Lieutenant 126 Rep 367 Posts Drives: F30 335i Join Date: May 2014 Location: NYC iTrader: (0)	Yup, brakes on these cars are super easy. Should also be notes that if you're doing the 4 piston front brakes and just doing the pads only, you don't need to remove any bolts. Just the 2 pins and then the pads slide out after you remove the retaining clip. Less than 5 mins each side if you're just doing pads.
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01-01-2017, 05:27 PM	#11
RM7 Brigadier General 2893 Rep 3,470 Posts Drives: Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: May 2015 Location: Alaska iTrader: (0)	You swapped the brakes? Sounds like you just replaced pads?
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02-01-2017, 09:06 AM	#16
Wires Brigadier General 1646 Rep 4,877 Posts Drives: 2016 340i xDrive Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary iTrader: (0)	Just finished the bedding in yesterday. I'm VERY impressed with them so far. Super quiet, initial bite is remarkable. I find when you go through the car wash, and they are wet coming out, the bite is the same as the OEM pads when dry. With the wet OEM pads, the car felt really "heavy" unit the rotors dried off. If you really get on the brakes now, the car has you pinned to the windshield. Dust is almost non-existent now. I highly recommend doing the swap. I don't track the car, so I cannot comment on fade resistance though.
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