[Kevinl]

So we bought a 2011 x5 16 months ago with 93,000 I had a bad feeling from the beginning but bought a warranty

So now the car has 118,000 we have 5000 miles of warranty left and the problems we have had as follows not including brakes or tires which we had to replace as well

Hpfp failure
Water pump failure
Evaporator core leaking
Blower motor squeaking replaced under warranty
Shredded belt and replace idlers/tensioner my self warranty wouldn't cover
Tension arms bushings failed
Starter failed

Now it has a cracked valve cover, bad ofhg causing oil to get in coolant and leaking oil pressure switch none of which warranty will cover dealer wants $3200 to repair but i think ]im going to do myself

I keep trying to tell myself these are all common problems and now the car should be reliable but every time it goes in for service it's like getting kicked in the nuts and soon the nice BMW loaner will be gone for good since warranty is ending unless I fork out 1000's

My wife loves the car but I am completely over it and don't want her to have an unreliable car and have the hassle and the downtime while I find time to fix it

What should I do

Oh the car is paid off so if I fix it and get rid of it I would buy something of similar value so I can pay cash for the difference and still have no payments

[GATORB8]

What kind of warranty doesn't cover a cracked valve cover?

Can you actually still extend the warranty now that it's over 100k?

I'd say keep it if you could do the work yourself, but if you don't feel like you can take that time, I think you'll probably be better off with a warranty or a different car.

[Rob_BMW_PNW]

Originally Posted by Kevinl

So we bought a 2011 x5 16 months ago with 93,000 I had a bad feeling from the beginning but bought a warranty

So now the car has 118,000 we have 5000 miles of warranty left and the problems we have had as follows not including brakes or tires which we had to replace as well

Hpfp failure
Water pump failure
Evaporator core leaking
Blower motor squeaking replaced under warranty
Shredded belt and replace idlers/tensioner my self warranty wouldn't cover
Tension arms bushings failed
Starter failed

Now it has a cracked valve cover, bad ofhg causing oil to get in coolant and leaking oil pressure switch none of which warranty will cover dealer wants $3200 to repair but i think ]im going to do myself

I keep trying to tell myself these are all common problems and now the car should be reliable but every time it goes in for service it's like getting kicked in the nuts and soon the nice BMW loaner will be gone for good since warranty is ending unless I fork out 1000's

My wife loves the car but I am completely over it and don't want her to have an unreliable car and have the hassle and the downtime while I find time to fix it

What should I do

Oh the car is paid off so if I fix it and get rid of it I would buy something of similar value so I can pay cash for the difference and still have no payments

Well about half of those are common failures and the rest would eventually happen anyways, like in any car at that mileage.

Usually water pump, tensioner are usually done at 60k

HPFP is hit and miss with N55, but they still fail, I think it is the same part number, but with different DME logic it lasts longer.

[Kevinl]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

What kind of warranty doesn't cover a cracked valve cover?

Can you actually still extend the warranty now that it's over 100k?

I'd say keep it if you could do the work yourself, but if you don't feel like you can take that time, I think you'll probably be better off with a warranty or a different car.

I think it should be covered and I could try to fight it but it isn't just about a valve cover

I'm sure I could find another moron to keep warranty on the car when this expires but it would be expensive and paying 6,000 for warranties is not smart even if it pays for itself it's money I'm never getting back

[Supra2k6]

Oil pressure switch is generic $20-30 or you could just replace the o ring

Ofhg parts are $30-$50 if you buy blue coolant.
Took me 2hrs the first time 45-1hr on my second car. Its just a matter of time easy weekend diy.

I would say be rdy to do the water pump every 60-100k miles and i dont think you have any serious problems just regular maintenance at 118k and you should be good for atleast another 50k miles of just oil changes.

I cant speak for the evaporator but the blower motor squeeking is under $100 and 4 screws to replave on a e90. Or a cheap fix is to pull the passenger side engine bay cabin filter and you can see the blower motor and the corrosion on the tip just spray some dw40 and boom gone.

[YouAreMyWorld]

So let me get this straight, you bought a vehicle with just about 100,000 miles on it, have kept it up to about 120,000 mile so far and are complaining about wear and tear items that are being replaced which correlate with said mileage? I'm not sure about your logic, but it should've been painfully obvious that a whole flurry of things would need to be changed during your initial ownership--especially when, I'm assuming, you have no service history of what parts (if any) were replaced prior to your ownership.

Next time go with a lease or a Japanese equivalent--as it's not the car/motor. It's the mileage and apparent lack of a service history on your part.

[bahn]

Originally Posted by YouAreMyWorld

So let me get this straight, you bought a vehicle with just about 100,000 miles on it, have kept it up to about 120,000 mile so far and are complaining about wear and tear items that are being replaced which correlate with said mileage? I'm not sure about your logic, but it should've been painfully obvious that a whole flurry of things would need to be changed during your initial ownership--especially when, I'm assuming, you have no service history of what parts (if any) were replaced prior to your ownership.

Next time go with a lease or a Japanese equivalent--as it's not the car/motor. It's the mileage and apparent lack of a service history on your part.

Want to sell it? Shoot me a PM with info, price and pics.

[Kevinl]

Got the car back from the dealer and it definitely needs ofhg and oil pressure sender but I don't see a thing from the valve cover looks completely dry since it's so expensive I am going to skip it and keep an eye on it because it looks 100% dry

[Johnny Boost]

Which warranty do you have?

[Kevinl]

Originally Posted by Johnny Boost

Which warranty do you have?

uac

What makes no sense is the thrust bushings were not covered the last two times I almost replaced them myself buy I wasn't sure which ones they were and they covered them this time along with the blower motor


I figured they have covered 5k so far and the warranty was 2,800

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by Kevinl

uac

What makes no sense is the thrust bushings were not covered the last two times I almost replaced them myself buy I wasn't sure which ones they were and they covered them this time along with the blower motor


I figured they have covered 5k so far and the warranty was 2,800

A lot depends on whether the SA knows what he's doing and will help push for you.

FYI, don't feel too bad, I'm approaching $10k in warranty coverage in about 6k miles of ownership.

[Kevinl]

Got the ofhg pulled waiting on parts any ideas on getting the oil out of the cooling system I was thinking of running straight water and changing it after a few days

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Kevinl

Got the ofhg pulled waiting on parts any ideas on getting the oil out of the cooling system I was thinking of running straight water and changing it after a few days

OK, this is easy!

1) Run the car just for a few minutes (not HOT) to get the fluids mixed well
2) Disconnect the line running to the Coolant reservoir (small c-clip)
3) Put disconnected coolant line into a large bucket
4) Put car into the "on" position
5) Put heat on full
6) Hold gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds and release

You should now hear the car begin to cycle the water pump (self-bleeding process). This will push fluid out of the disconnected line. Fill the coolant tank with fresh fluid as you eject the old fluid into the bucket! Use distilled water or something to flush out the oily coolant and then run it dry and refill with fresh new 50:50 mix. It's easy to change fluid on these cars.

[Kevinl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

OK, this is easy!

1) Run the car just for a few minutes (not HOT) to get the fluids mixed well
2) Disconnect the line running to the Coolant reservoir (small c-clip)
3) Put disconnected coolant line into a large bucket
4) Put car into the "on" position
5) Put heat on full
6) Hold gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds and release

You should now hear the car begin to cycle the water pump (self-bleeding process). This will push fluid out of the disconnected line. Fill the coolant tank with fresh fluid as you eject the old fluid into the bucket! Use distilled water or something to flush out the oily coolant and then run it dry and refill with fresh new 50:50 mix. It's easy to change fluid on these cars.

Thanks that worked great

Car is fixed and fingers crossed it treats me good

[Kevinl]

Well hell there is oil in the coolant again

I guess I replace the oil cooler as a Hail Mary and pray that fixes it otherwise I don't know what to do

[335udm]

Originally Posted by Kevinl

So we bought a 2011 x5 16 months ago with 93,000 I had a bad feeling from the beginning but bought a warranty
<edit>I keep trying to tell myself these are all common problems and now the car should be reliable but every time it goes in for service it's like getting kicked in the nuts and soon the nice BMW loaner <edit>

Kevinl, In my experience, been there, done that. Never again buy BMW without full warranty to last my projected time of ownership / mileage.

Originally Posted by YouAreMyWorld

So let me get this straight, you bought a vehicle with just about 100,000 miles on it, have kept it up to about 120,000 mile so far and are complaining about wear and tear items that are being replaced which correlate with said mileage? I'm not sure about your logic, but it should've been painfully obvious that a whole flurry of things would need to be changed during your initial ownership--especially when, I'm assuming, you have no service history of what parts (if any) were replaced prior to your ownership.

Next time go with a lease or a Japanese equivalent--as it's not the car/motor. It's the mileage and apparent lack of a service history on your part.

Kevinl: Do you have service history? BMW dealer (and some BMW specialist shops) can see it, and print it up for you. If it seems 'incomplete', it would be from some servicing not done by BMW / BMW specialist shops, or not done at all.

Hmm; YouAreMyWorld did not play around with many postings; but IMHO delivered unvarnished truth for us all., I hope things get worked out for you,