02-15-2017, 07:47 PM | #1 |
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Torque Spec, Please
Hey guys,
Can you confirm (or correct) the information I have that the torque spec for the rear caliper bracket bolt is 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)? This seems very low--it was more than twice that on my E46! This was my source, on page 22... http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/att...6&d=1476916748 Appears legit, but again, seems really low... Thanks in advance. |
08-29-2018, 05:24 PM | #5 |
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My first post on the forum.... The 30 Nm torque is the first step in the tightening sequence. The bolt is then tightened an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn). There is no calculation to determine the final resultant tightening force, but it is more than 30 Nm. Dealers do not replace these bolts so I assume that they are not torque to yield.
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08-29-2018, 08:08 PM | #6 |
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The rear caliper bolts (M12x1.5x32mm) are similar to the front bolts (M12x1.5x43mm). The front bolt spec is about 80-81ft-lbs. I would just do the rear the same if reusing a bolt. If using a new bolt, then do the 30Nm + 90deg.
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06-19-2020, 12:24 PM | #7 |
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Having just done this job, I was also puzzled by the 22 ft-lb torque figure. I did my front brakes a month ago, (standard F30 single piston brakes) and those bolts were much easier to break loose. At the rears, it probably took me on the order of 120 ft-lbs to crack these bolts loose, but the strange part is that it required around 40 ft-lbs to keep working them out until almost the very end. It was a ratchet job all the way, none of the usual hand spinning.
I replaced the bolts not so much because it was recommended, but because the insane torque combined with poor recessed access caused me to round off the 16mm heads a bit, and the last thing I want is trouble in another 5 years when I have to do this again. The replacement bolts come with preinstalled threadlocker as expected. I lightly cleaned the threads in the caliper bracket to make sure the residue was removed, and finished with canned air. When I reinstalled these bolts, it took far more than 22 ft-lbs merely to work the bolts down. I probably used upwards of 60 ft-lbs once they were more than halfway home. I even had to switch to the bulky 1/2 inch ratchet that I had used to break the old bolts loose in order to set final torque, which was between 80 and 100 ft-lbs. Understand, I had no intention of setting such extreme torque, but I was cranking hard only to still see daylight between the bottom bolt's flange and the rear knuckle. It wasn't home yet. (It also wasn't cross-threaded, in case anyone's thinking that.) I'm just glad that I was working with steel and cast iron. If these had been aluminum assemblies, I would have had serious worries about stripping the threads out. I should also mention that I'm in temperate Seattle and rust wasn't significant. The machined surfaces sealing bracket to knuckle were shiny when separated. |
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06-21-2020, 01:54 PM | #8 |
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So I replaced my front and rear rotors and pads about 5000 miles ago, but forgot to torque the additional 90 degrees on the rear caliper bracket bolts. I used the old bolts but I think I did use threadlocker. Should I just torque the additional 90 degrees or remove and re-torque them, or just leave them be?
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06-21-2020, 03:50 PM | #9 | |
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08-30-2020, 10:07 PM | #11 | ||
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08-30-2020, 11:32 PM | #12 |
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