[Joe240]

Put the Remus Exhaust on and I'm glad I went with this exhaust. Resonated midpipe makes this exhaust as quiet as stock at idle and normal driving, but under load or in Sport/+ modes it's noticeably louder. Still have the stock DP on at the moment, but will be putting my VM Catless downpipe on in a couple weeks. Took some pictures during the install and noted some tips and tricks that I wanted to pass on to everyone else who does an exhaust swap.

Step 1: Removing the stock exhaust

You will want to remove the cross support beam in the middle of the car. This requires a nice breaker bar and a T-60 socket (for the back 2 bolts near the wheels) and a T-50 socket (for the 6 main bolts in the center). Picture below shows the support beam removed (and exhaust) and you can see the 6 holes where the T-50 bolts were and the two holes by the wheels where the T-60 bolts were.


Once this is done, you will then need to use either a jack stand (if doing this in your driveway), a transmission support jack, or a second set of hands. You will use a 10mm socket (deepwell might work best) to loosen the bolt at the front of the midpipe connecting to the downpipe, and remove the exhaust hanger at the front of the midpipe and the 2 at the rear on each side of the muffler.




Then lower the exhaust at the back (muffler side) to clear the heat shield. and pull straight back to remove it off the downpipe.

Step 2: Transferring parts from stock exhaust to Remus exhaust

First is the exhaust hangers on the muffler. Note which side you pull each hanger off of and the orientation of the hanger as it will need to go back on the same way. To remove, if you have the proper tool (exhaust removal pliers) then use that. If you're like me and you don't, then you can either gently pull it off dry, or use some lube. I recommend some soapy water. Once removed, you will want to use soapy water on the inside of the hole so it slides onto the new hanger easier. See below pictures for proper direction of hangers.



Next you will need to salvage the actuator from the old exhaust. It is held on by 3 (if I remember correctly, 8mm) bolts and then the actuator and heat shield for it come off. You don't need the spring from the stock exhaust since the Remus system comes with one.

Before you put the actuator onto the new exhaust, you need to position the spring properly so the actuator lines up properly with it.
It will come shipped in this position (with tape over it to hold it in place):


And you will need to position the spring like this:


To attach the actuator, you may need to turn the valve into the closed position using the spring (turns really easy with your fingers). Then just align the hold, heat shielding first, and bolt the actuator into place. End product looks like this:


Step 3: Installing the Remus exhaust

I put the exhaust in by each piece (split midpipe, then resonated midpipe, then muffler) but it's all a matter of preference. I did it this way so I could slide everything into position and align it right before the next piece went on. REMINDER!!! When connecting the pipes and aligning with the hangers, do not tighten the clamps at all and only loosely screw on the bolts for the exhaust hangers. This is because the Remus exhaust is a tight fit when it traverses over the center support brace and if it's not put in properly, it will hit on the support brace when driving and the rattle will be annoying (trust me, I had to fix mine).

To start, the split midpipe will slide onto the downpipe and align the exhaust hanger. REMINDER loosely put the exhaust hanger bolt on (not tight like I did in the picture below) and do not tighten the clamp yet.



Next you will slide on the rear section of the midpipe and support it as well. REMINDER not to tighten the clamp. mine is a resonated midpipe. Left side goes towards the front, right goes to the muffler.


Now, slide the muffler onto the back midpipe and loosely (unlike my picture once again) bolt on the exhaust hangers. Back section should look like this:




Finally, you will want to put the center support brace back onto the car and tighten it down. The reason this goes back on before you tighten anything else on the exhaust is because the clearance on the split section is very precise and will need to be angled just right to provide the proper clearance. If you can't get enough clearance because the pipes aren't level and clear enough, you can use exhaust heat wrap and wrap that section so when it does hit he support brace, it won't make a loud noise.

You will want to now put the rear tips on and get them aligned. If you're like me and want the Remus name and logo to be showing, you might need to pull some of the sections apart so the tips can poke out enough and still secure to the angled pipes going to the muffler. The system allows for the exhausts to align left/right, as well as up and down inside the rear diffuser so you can perfectly align them. The tips I have are the Remus Carbon tips (102mm). From here, I'd recommend tightening everything from the front moving towards the back so you make the clearance on the center brace.



Double check that every bolt is tight and you are finished.

Here's the before and after videos. Stock downpipe, resonated midpipe, 2017 m240i xDrive with 8-speed Auto.

Stock Exhaust:

Remus Exhaust:

Little Driving. Did a 0-65 run at 3:50 (came off the throttle late). Drove in Sport mode with gear shifter in S mode (pushed to the left for sport shifting). Switched to comfort mode and gear shifter in drive at 4:15 to show it being quiet.

If you'd like to salvage the stock exhaust and you're at a shop (or having a shop do the install) and need to bring the exhaust home, then you will want to cut the exhaust where the square is (approximately 150mm) from the muffler. This is the only completely round section on the entire exhaust. This allows you to salvage either the midpipe or the muffler for other projects, or selling, but also allows you to fit everything into the car for the drive home. Make sure to wrap the midpipe with a blanket so it doesn't get anything dirty and doesn't scratch your dash (it will need to sit on the dash because it's pretty long).


If you're doing the cutting, then I'd suggest using a sharpie or something to draw a few straight lines that will be perpendicular to your cut. This way if you, or someone who buys your exhaust, mount this again later on, they can align it properly and weld it together, or use BMW Part#18307560815 to clamp the pipes together. This spot is the same spot that is cut when changing to the M Performance exhaust which is why I say cut it here.

[AlexM240i]

Originally Posted by Joe240

Put the Remus Exhaust on and I'm glad I went with this exhaust. Resonated midpipe makes this exhaust as quiet as stock at idle and normal driving, but under load or in Sport/+ modes it's noticeably louder. Still have the stock DP on at the moment, but will be putting my VM Catless downpipe on in a couple weeks. Took some pictures during the install and noted some tips and tricks that I wanted to pass on to everyone else who does an exhaust swap.

Step 1: Removing the stock exhaust

You will want to remove the cross support beam in the middle of the car. This requires a nice breaker bar and a T-60 socket (for the back 2 bolts near the wheels) and a T-50 socket (for the 6 main bolts in the center). Picture below shows the support beam removed (and exhaust) and you can see the 6 holes where the T-50 bolts were and the two holes by the wheels where the T-60 bolts were.
Attachment 1583124

Once this is done, you will then need to use either a jack stand (if doing this in your driveway), a transmission support jack, or a second set of hands. You will use a 10mm socket (deepwell might work best) to loosen the bolt at the front of the midpipe connecting to the downpipe, and remove the exhaust hanger at the front of the midpipe and the 2 at the rear on each side of the muffler.
Attachment 1583128
Attachment 1583129
Attachment 1583130

Then lower the exhaust at the back (muffler side) to clear the heat shield. and pull straight back to remove it off the downpipe.

Step 2: Transferring parts from stock exhaust to Remus exhaust

First is the exhaust hangers on the muffler. Note which side you pull each hanger off of and the orientation of the hanger as it will need to go back on the same way. To remove, if you have the proper tool (exhaust removal pliers) then use that. If you're like me and you don't, then you can either gently pull it off dry, or use some lube. I recommend some soapy water. Once removed, you will want to use soapy water on the inside of the hole so it slides onto the new hanger easier. See below pictures for proper direction of hangers.
Attachment 1583132
Attachment 1583133

Next you will need to salvage the actuator from the old exhaust. It is held on by 3 (if I remember correctly, 8mm) bolts and then the actuator and heat shield for it come off. You don't need the spring from the stock exhaust since the Remus system comes with one.

Before you put the actuator onto the new exhaust, you need to position the spring properly so the actuator lines up properly with it.
It will come shipped in this position (with tape over it to hold it in place):
Attachment 1583134

And you will need to position the spring like this:
Attachment 1583135

To attach the actuator, you may need to turn the valve into the closed position using the spring (turns really easy with your fingers). Then just align the hold, heat shielding first, and bolt the actuator into place. End product looks like this:
Attachment 1583136

Step 3: Installing the Remus exhaust

I put the exhaust in by each piece (split midpipe, then resonated midpipe, then muffler) but it's all a matter of preference. I did it this way so I could slide everything into position and align it right before the next piece went on. REMINDER!!! When connecting the pipes and aligning with the hangers, do not tighten the clamps at all and only loosely screw on the bolts for the exhaust hangers. This is because the Remus exhaust is a tight fit when it traverses over the center support brace and if it's not put in properly, it will hit on the support brace when driving and the rattle will be annoying (trust me, I had to fix mine).

To start, the split midpipe will slide onto the downpipe and align the exhaust hanger. REMINDER loosely put the exhaust hanger bolt on (not tight like I did in the picture below) and do not tighten the clamp yet.
Attachment 1583138
Attachment 1583139

Next you will slide on the rear section of the midpipe and support it as well. REMINDER not to tighten the clamp. mine is a resonated midpipe. Left side goes towards the front, right goes to the muffler.
Attachment 1583157

Now, slide the muffler onto the back midpipe and loosely (unlike my picture once again) bolt on the exhaust hangers. Back section should look like this:
Attachment 1583149
Attachment 1583150
Attachment 1583151

Finally, you will want to put the center support brace back onto the car and tighten it down. The reason this goes back on before you tighten anything else on the exhaust is because the clearance on the split section is very precise and will need to be angled just right to provide the proper clearance. If you can't get enough clearance because the pipes aren't level and clear enough, you can use exhaust heat wrap and wrap that section so when it does hit he support brace, it won't make a loud noise.

You will want to now put the rear tips on and get them aligned. If you're like me and want the Remus name and logo to be showing, you might need to pull some of the sections apart so the tips can poke out enough and still secure to the angled pipes going to the muffler. The system allows for the exhausts to align left/right, as well as up and down inside the rear diffuser so you can perfectly align them. The tips I have are the Remus Carbon tips (102mm). From here, I'd recommend tightening everything from the front moving towards the back so you make the clearance on the center brace.
Attachment 1583155
Attachment 1583156

Double check that every bolt is tight and you are finished.

Here's the before and after videos. Stock downpipe, resonated midpipe, 2017 m240i xDrive with 8-speed Auto.

Stock Exhaust:

Remus Exhaust:

Little Driving. Did a 0-65 run at 3:50 (came off the throttle late). Drove in Sport mode with gear shifter in S mode (pushed to the left for sport shifting). Switched to comfort mode and gear shifter in drive at 4:15 to show it being quiet.

If you'd like to salvage the stock exhaust and you're at a shop (or having a shop do the install) and need to bring the exhaust home, then you will want to cut the exhaust where the square is (approximately 150mm) from the muffler. This is the only completely round section on the entire exhaust. This allows you to salvage either the midpipe or the muffler for other projects, or selling, but also allows you to fit everything into the car for the drive home. Make sure to wrap the midpipe with a blanket so it doesn't get anything dirty and doesn't scratch your dash (it will need to sit on the dash because it's pretty long).
Attachment 1583125

If you're doing the cutting, then I'd suggest using a sharpie or something to draw a few straight lines that will be perpendicular to your cut. This way if you, or someone who buys your exhaust, mount this again later on, they can align it properly and weld it together, or use BMW Part#18307560815 to clamp the pipes together. This spot is the same spot that is cut when changing to the M Performance exhaust which is why I say cut it here.

Wow ! What a great review and install guide !

That Remus system is beatiful, the sound is great. Congrats Joe240

PS: Those CF tips are massive !

[Joe240]

Originally Posted by AlexM240i

Wow ! What a great review and install guide !

That Remus system is beatiful, the sound is great. Congrats Joe240

PS: Those CF tips are massive !

Thanks Alex. The system is beautiful and sounds great. Glad I spent the money on it. Was hesitant if it was worth the extra $1200 compared to a magnaflow or flowmaster system (when they become available) at first, but the quality of the parts and design are amazing.

The CF tips had me worried when I first read 102mm. Grabbed my micrometer and measured the opening to be sure and sure enough, just barely squeezes in there. Definitely adds to the appearance though. Only thing I would've changes is to have it longer. I feel like they weren't long enough and you can tell from the side view.

[RotorOver]

Originally Posted by Joe240

Thanks Alex. The system is beautiful and sounds great. Glad I spent the money on it. Was hesitant if it was worth the extra $1200 compared to a magnaflow or flowmaster system (when they become available) at first, but the quality of the parts and design are amazing.

The CF tips had me worried when I first read 102mm. Grabbed my micrometer and measured the opening to be sure and sure enough, just barely squeezes in there. Definitely adds to the appearance though. Only thing I would've changes is to have it longer. I feel like they weren't long enough and you can tell from the side view.

Great work Joe! Excellent post and info. Enjoy it!

[Joe240]

Originally Posted by RotorOver

Great work Joe! Excellent post and info. Enjoy it!

Thanks

[iv-128i]

Just to let everyone know that remus catback does fit on an F23. It is a tight fit, but it fits just got mine installed ! Clearance is about 4mm around braces

[kriszty]

have the same exhaust , good choice, love it too , i also have the wagner 200cell dp, sound is great ( not too loud )