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      06-13-2017, 08:41 AM   #1
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Sanding existing pads before new rotors?

So I'm desperately in need of some new discs (front and the rears are on the way so I might as well do them all to the same brand - plus I want all round matching slotted & dimpled).

My question however is, the front pads were only changed back in February and have 9mm of thickness, the rears also have around 7mm (still stock oem). Is it possible for me to just sand the pads flat and stick them onto the new discs? To waste £80-90 on more pads that already have decent thickness seems a little ludicrous.

I have read mixed reports about doing this online so I'm set on finding out whether I can do this before placing an order.

The health of the current discs can be seen here, lipped, corroded and glazed http://video.citnow.com/vxW2dj22zyV
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      06-14-2017, 10:57 AM   #2
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Unless the pads for some bizarre reason are wildly uneven just replace the rotors and dont worry about it.
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      06-15-2017, 03:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by producerlawson View Post
So I'm desperately in need of some new discs (front and the rears are on the way so I might as well do them all to the same brand - plus I want all round matching slotted & dimpled).

My question however is, the front pads were only changed back in February and have 9mm of thickness, the rears also have around 7mm (still stock oem). Is it possible for me to just sand the pads flat and stick them onto the new discs? To waste £80-90 on more pads that already have decent thickness seems a little ludicrous.

I have read mixed reports about doing this online so I'm set on finding out whether I can do this before placing an order.

The health of the current discs can be seen here, lipped, corroded and glazed http://video.citnow.com/vxW2dj22zyV
Have you measured your disc thickness ?

If plenty of meat on them - you could get them skimmed.

http://skimmydiscs.co.uk/
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      06-15-2017, 05:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Have you measured your disc thickness ?

If plenty of meat on them - you could get them skimmed.

http://skimmydiscs.co.uk/
Have had chance to measure unfortunately.

They're corroded on the edges and are pretty badly lipped. I was massively impressed with my brakes after I swapped out the front pads for Pagids back in April, but from around May'ish I developed an insane amount of brake wobble and vibration throughout the cabin at speeds of 60-70mph +

My dealer ran it on a brake roller which they claimed indicated the front discs to be problem, with a small amount coming from the rears.
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      06-15-2017, 05:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by producerlawson View Post
Have had chance to measure unfortunately.

They're corroded on the edges and are pretty badly lipped. I was massively impressed with my brakes after I swapped out the front pads for Pagids back in April, but from around May'ish I developed an insane amount of brake wobble and vibration throughout the cabin at speeds of 60-70mph +

My dealer ran it on a brake roller which they claimed indicated the front discs to be problem, with a small amount coming from the rears.
So no issues before switching brake pads and did you change front pads only or F&R ?

Did you bed-in the pagid pads post install ?

Could be disc faces have un-even deposits from new pads that is causing the wobble - if discs aren't near min. thickness then perhaps "Italian tune-up" for your brakes may reduce/remove brake wobble
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      06-15-2017, 05:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
So no issues before switching brake pads and did you change front pads only or F&R ?

Did you bed-in the pagid pads post install ?

Could be disc faces have un-even deposits from new pads that is causing the wobble - if discs aren't near min. thickness then perhaps "Italian tune-up" for your brakes may reduce/remove brake wobble
I ran the car to 50mph and slowly/gently braked to 5mph, then repeated this but gradually improved the brake pressure each time. That's what I have typically done with pads before? Is there something different you would have done?

Yeah might be worth a shot. I'm away all next weekend but hopefully the weekend after I might try and pop the front pads out and just do a quick inspection of the entire disc too.

Annoyingly I just missed a huge sale at onlinecarparts.co.uk, they had dimpled and slotted Zimmermann coated discs going with something silly like 30% off.
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      06-15-2017, 05:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by producerlawson View Post
I ran the car to 50mph and slowly/gently braked to 5mph, then repeated this but gradually improved the brake pressure each time. That's what I have typically done with pads before? Is there something different you would have done?

Yeah might be worth a shot. I'm away all next weekend but hopefully the weekend after I might try and pop the front pads out and just do a quick inspection of the entire disc too.

Annoyingly I just missed a huge sale at onlinecarparts.co.uk, they had dimpled and slotted Zimmermann coated discs going with something silly like 30% off.
Perhaps try this brake pad break-in ritual to re-bed your pads :-

• Light braking to warm the pads and discs.
• 8-10 cycles of threshold braking*, 60-5mph in quick succession.
*Threshold braking = getting to the point of ABS intervention, but not actually triggering ABS.
• Brake pressure must be released as you approach stop - do not stop the car after each deceleration.
• Repeated above threshold braking cycle with higher speed deceleration, say 80-10 on a private closed road......
• Drive for several miles afterwards to let the brakes cool.

The above works well to get the disc and pad temperatures high enough to ship pad material evenly to the disc faces.
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      06-15-2017, 09:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by producerlawson View Post
I ran the car to 50mph and slowly/gently braked to 5mph, then repeated this but gradually improved the brake pressure each time. That's what I have typically done with pads before? Is there something different you would have done?
Not aggressive enough. You need to get the rotors and pads hot enough. Its more than likely as was mentioned above uneven pad deposits. Warping rotors is much rarer than people think especially on a performance oriented car its damn near impossible. Econo-shit-box ok maybe if the rotors are small and cheap.
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      06-19-2017, 04:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Perhaps try this brake pad break-in ritual to re-bed your pads :-

• Light braking to warm the pads and discs.
• 8-10 cycles of threshold braking*, 60-5mph in quick succession.
*Threshold braking = getting to the point of ABS intervention, but not actually triggering ABS.
• Brake pressure must be released as you approach stop - do not stop the car after each deceleration.
• Repeated above threshold braking cycle with higher speed deceleration, say 80-10 on a private closed road......
• Drive for several miles afterwards to let the brakes cool.

The above works well to get the disc and pad temperatures high enough to ship pad material evenly to the disc faces.
Thanks, I'll get the discs cleaned up over next weekend and then try this to see if I can rebrake them in.
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      06-19-2017, 05:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by producerlawson View Post
Thanks, I'll get the discs cleaned up over next weekend and then try this to see if I can rebrake them in.
NP - hopefully this helps improve your brakes.
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      06-19-2017, 08:45 AM   #11
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Assuming that you didn't re-set the brake replacement interval when you changed out the pads I would replace rotors when CBS states and sand the pads.

When pads wear out you'll want to change rotors as well.

Lesson learned here is to always change rotors and pads at same time. Doing so makes the ownership experience less annoying.
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      06-26-2017, 06:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Perhaps try this brake pad break-in ritual to re-bed your pads :-

• Light braking to warm the pads and discs.
• 8-10 cycles of threshold braking*, 60-5mph in quick succession.
*Threshold braking = getting to the point of ABS intervention, but not actually triggering ABS.
• Brake pressure must be released as you approach stop - do not stop the car after each deceleration.
• Repeated above threshold braking cycle with higher speed deceleration, say 80-10 on a private closed road......
• Drive for several miles afterwards to let the brakes cool.

The above works well to get the disc and pad temperatures high enough to ship pad material evenly to the disc faces.
I gave this a shot at the weekend.. it seems to have reduced 80% of all vibration, there's still a little though that I noticed on my motorway commute back last night (but only in speeds in excess of 80 mph)

It'll do for now though, it's nowhere near as bad as it was initially thanks!
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