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      06-28-2017, 07:26 AM   #1
egoodman8
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New poster: f30 328 vs e92 335 vs. f30 335

I plan on returning to BMW after a brief hiatus. I owned a 2011 335Xi and loved it but decided to switch to a more sensible V6 Honda Accord when we had our first child. I seriously regret it and am figuring out whether to buy a 2012-2015 328 with 30-40K miles or a 2011 335 again vs. a f30 335 with 50-70k miles.

I loved the power of the 335 but I test drove a 328 and was still pretty impressed with the pay it drove even though there was significantly less power. It will be my daily driver (~10k miles/year) and doesn't go on the highway much (we are in Virginia so I try to avoid going much over 80mph to avoid a reckless driving ticket). Wondering what people thought about the 2011 e92 335 in terms of reliability between 50-125k mile range vs. a 2012 f30 335.
Thanks in advance and I will let you know what I end up choosing!

I apologize in advance about the 328 vs 335 debate. I know it has been discussed to death. If someone could point me towards some RECENT threads on the subject I would appreciate it as well.
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      06-28-2017, 06:28 PM   #2
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2 main reasons why I like the F30 over the E9x platform:

1) ZF 8 Speed tranny .... really wanted this new transmission compared to the 6 speed found in E9x generation

2) I personally prefer the interior of the F3x generation compared to the E9x.

So, if I was in your shoes, I would def look at the F30 335i . I have a F30 328i, while I do enjoy the car, I regret not saving up for the 335i.

As well, from what I have read, the N55 motor is quite reliable and a very strong performer. The N55 is supposed to be more reliable compared to N54 (although the N54 is more tunable in its stock form)
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      06-28-2017, 06:48 PM   #3
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Your sig line says drives a 2013 328..so did you decide or is this the car you're interested in?

An x28 car has more than enough power. My car cruises all day long at 80 easily and if you're NOT going to be involved with stoplight races, should be fine. A car with 1/2 the miles of the 335 (to me ) is a selling point as well.
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      06-28-2017, 07:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalCarNut View Post
Your sig line says drives a 2013 328..so did you decide or is this the car you're interested in?

An x28 car has more than enough power. My car cruises all day long at 80 easily and if you're going to be involved with stoplight races, should be fine. A car with 1/2 the miles of the 335 (to me ) is a selling point as well.
Very good point CalCarNut, 1/2 the mileage is definitely a very high selling point. I would recommend OP test drive both the x28i and x35i to compare. Everyone's expectation/needs are a bit different so getting that time behind the wheel to test drive is important.

I should clarify that my 328i is definitely quick enough for my daily use and I do enjoy driving my car (def not hating on the x28i/N20 engines). However, personally speaking..... would've been nice to have a couple more cylinders and a bit more power
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      06-28-2017, 07:26 PM   #5
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Off topic but why is a v6 accord more sensible if you already own a 335xi?

I could understand if you didn't have a car -- the accord is cheaper and more reliable, but what do you save in trading in the 335 that you already own?

The reason I ask is that this idea comes to me from time to time and I can't explain why i even consider it (other than that it involves a new car)
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      06-29-2017, 07:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheen View Post
Off topic but why is a v6 accord more sensible if you already own a 335xi?

I could understand if you didn't have a car -- the accord is cheaper and more reliable, but what do you save in trading in the 335 that you already own?

The reason I ask is that this idea comes to me from time to time and I can't explain why i even consider it (other than that it involves a new car)
Thank you all for the replies and good info. I probably should have been more clear; I traded the 335 in for an Accord. I owed as much on the 335 as I got for it in trade in value. I saved some money on car payments and figured I would save money down the road on maintenance, but now I'm deciding that it is worth the money to drive a car I love.

I put the 13 328 as my car b/c I thought I had to put a BMW and that is the most likely one I would get.
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      06-29-2017, 08:43 AM   #7
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I did actually test drive a 2016 328 and a 2017 340. There was definitely a difference, but not as much as I thought there was going to be. The 328 definitely handled better and felt lighter.

Tough decision. Obviously having the extra power is great but I don't know that I would be using it very often. To be honest, the hardest driving I would be doing is getting on the highway from an on ramp and merging into traffic.

Do people think the n20 will be any more reliable long term than the n55?
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      06-29-2017, 09:52 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egoodman8
I saved some money on car payments and figured I would save money down the road on maintenance, but now I'm deciding that it is worth the money to drive a car I love.
Ah okay that makes total sense now.

I test drove the 328 as well before buying my 335 and I recall that being a very likeable experience due to the nimbleness that the 335 lacks.

The only reason I ended up with the n55 is that my previous car was also a n55 335 and my wife was convinced I would have regrets if I chose a car with less power, especially for less than about $3k diff similarly equipped.

I have not owned an n20, but i don't think it's any less reliable than n55; that wasn't a factor for me when I chose back then.
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      06-29-2017, 11:17 AM   #9
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For CalCarNut and Uncleruckus, how is the x28 for getting on the highway from an on ramp and merging into traffic? If you feel good about its ability to do that, then the 328 is enough for me.
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      06-29-2017, 12:02 PM   #10
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I have a 328 wagon with a Dinan tune. It's definitely quick enough. I drive that car on the highway much more than my Stage 2 235 and I am never nervous about merging, passing etc.
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      06-29-2017, 12:11 PM   #11
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I probably wouldn't mod it since I think I will go the CarMax route and get an extended warranty as insurance. I think that would probably void it though I'm not sure. Anybody know the answer to that?
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      06-29-2017, 01:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egoodman8 View Post
For CalCarNut and Uncleruckus, how is the x28 for getting on the highway from an on ramp and merging into traffic? If you feel good about its ability to do that, then the 328 is enough for me.
I personally don't have issues with my 328i when merging/on ramp.... I will put the car into Sports Mode (or Tranny into sport shift mode) at times if I feel i needed more instant power (e.g. when stuck in 1 lane and I need to switch lanes with moving traffic, I will put the car into Sport mode, for more quicker power delivery).
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      06-30-2017, 08:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncleruckus View Post
I personally don't have issues with my 328i when merging/on ramp.... I will put the car into Sports Mode (or Tranny into sport shift mode) at times if I feel i needed more instant power (e.g. when stuck in 1 lane and I need to switch lanes with moving traffic, I will put the car into Sport mode, for more quicker power delivery).
Ok thanks very much. I think that seals the decision. A 328 it is.

Anybody have thoughts on CarMax and/or whether putting a chip in the car will void a warranty?
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      06-30-2017, 08:55 AM   #14
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My 320 has no issues merging. As long as you are paying attention it has as much get up as more than most the cars on the road, so your fine. It won't bail you out if you don't have your act together though. Even high speed passing is usually fine, unless you really need tons of acceleration right now - which doesn't happen during my driving. I would say I am a fairly aggressive driver.

As for tune, yes it voids warranty, but they aren't likely to notice it, or you can remove it before going in for any special engine service.
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      06-30-2017, 08:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicpea View Post
My 320 has no issues merging. As long as you are paying attention it has as much get up as more than most the cars on the road, so your fine. It won't bail you out if you don't have your act together though. Even high speed passing is usually fine, unless you really need tons of acceleration right now - which doesn't happen during my driving. I would say I am a fairly aggressive driver.

As for tune, yes it voids warranty, but they aren't likely to notice it, or you can remove it before going in for any special engine service.
Thanks. That's great info.
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      06-30-2017, 10:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egoodman8 View Post
I plan on returning to BMW after a brief hiatus. I owned a 2011 335Xi and loved it but decided to switch to a more sensible V6 Honda Accord when we had our first child. I seriously regret it and am figuring out whether to buy a 2012-2015 328 with 30-40K miles or a 2011 335 again vs. a f30 335 with 50-70k miles.

I loved the power of the 335 but I test drove a 328 and was still pretty impressed with the pay it drove even though there was significantly less power. It will be my daily driver (~10k miles/year) and doesn't go on the highway much (we are in Virginia so I try to avoid going much over 80mph to avoid a reckless driving ticket). Wondering what people thought about the 2011 e92 335 in terms of reliability between 50-125k mile range vs. a 2012 f30 335.
Thanks in advance and I will let you know what I end up choosing!

I apologize in advance about the 328 vs 335 debate. I know it has been discussed to death. If someone could point me towards some RECENT threads on the subject I would appreciate it as well.
Get the newest F30 you can afford whether it's a 328/330 or a 335. The F30 platform has received improvements all along the way, so you're better off with the newest iteration you can afford, even if that means a newer 328/330 rather than an older 335.
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      06-30-2017, 10:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tturedraider View Post
Get the newest F30 you can afford whether it's a 328/330 or a 335. The F30 platform has received improvements all along the way, so you're better off with the newest iteration you can afford, even if that means a newer 328/330 rather than an older 335.
Thanks. Would a 2014 be a good choice? Should I avoid a 2012 or 2013?

Last edited by egoodman8; 06-30-2017 at 11:15 AM..
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      06-30-2017, 12:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egoodman8 View Post
Thanks. Would a 2014 be a good choice? Should I avoid a 2012 or 2013?
I would not say to avoid a 2012/13, they were the first year models. I'm sure a few on here have those year models with zero issues and certainly not discounting them.

The updates came on the 2016 model (LCI), steering was improved, LED lights (on Premium Package), led rears and other items, don't recall them all. As mentioned, get the latest you can afford. If that 2014 checks all the boxes so to speak for you, then go for it. I got a 2016 because it was a good/decent deal, CPO, etc.. The plus was, it was a 2016 so upgrades included.
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      06-30-2017, 12:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egoodman8 View Post
For CalCarNut and Uncleruckus, how is the x28 for getting on the highway from an on ramp and merging into traffic? If you feel good about its ability to do that, then the 328 is enough for me.
A stock 328 has no problem merging onto a freeway. I'm in SoCal..so if the freeway isn't gridlocked, it has people doing 80mph and enjoying the open space at that brief moment in time. My car is tuned..so it hits the ramp a bit harder when I want it to and can gap those coming pretty easily. Probably the only time I truly utilize the add'l hp .
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      06-30-2017, 12:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMRSEB View Post
I would not say to avoid a 2012/13, they were the first year models. I'm sure a few on here have those year models with zero issues and certainly not discounting them.

The updates came on the 2016 model (LCI), steering was improved, LED lights (on Premium Package), led rears and other items, don't recall them all. As mentioned, get the latest you can afford. If that 2014 checks all the boxes so to speak for you, then go for it. I got a 2016 because it was a good/decent deal, CPO, etc.. The plus was, it was a 2016 so upgrades included.
I don't think I could swing a CPO. Thinking more the CarMax route so a low mileage 2012-2014 is more in my price range. To be honest, I don't even care about Premium or Luxury packages; I'm really just craving the driving experience.
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      06-30-2017, 12:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egoodman8 View Post
Thanks. Would a 2014 be a good choice? Should I avoid a 2012 or 2013?
Also keep in mind the timing chain 'issue'. The 2015+ N20/N26 engines came with a redesigned chain. Do a search on the topic for more info..
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      06-30-2017, 01:14 PM   #22
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It's hard to speak directly to the reliability of the N20 vs N55. If you look on these forums, you will see some N20s failing or having timing chain issues. There are some users on this forum that really hate on the N20, however keep in mind that these forums are not representative of the overall owner base and that that there are much higher number of N20 engines out in the wild compared to N55, so it's hard to gather proper data for % of failures across the board (and I guess only BMW would have that type of data).

I would recommend looking at the 2014/2015 for the timing belt changes/upgrades, I cant remember when they specifically changed it, but a search should pull that up
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