[Farroar]

07' 335xi

Had a few fun things to deal with recently. I replaced driveshaft, driver front wheel bearing, shocks all around, and front pass axel.

After getting shocks and wheel bearing installed, got it all aligned. Front end way okay, they couldn't do the rear due to 'seized' up something or another. Needed a kit.. anyway...

After installing the axel ( a Dorman axel, figure it is a good brand. Has good reviews), I now get torque steer to the right. I'm assuming it has something to do with the axel I installed. Either it is the wrong length or what? I put them side by side prior to installing and they matched right up. A bit different in design but not much. I'm fairly certain that I got it all the way in. No gap that I can see.

With the assumption that I caused this, what portion of the guts could be the issue? Need alignment after axel? I did have to drop the front control arm but I didn't think that was involved in the alignment. Also had to remove the knuckle from the strut.

I also feel this.. not so much as a shudder but at constant highway speeds there is a rolling kind of vibration that wasn't there before. It's not fast, almost like a harmonic. Stays straight when not accelerating but digs to the right very noticeably at HW speed acceleration around 70-80mph.

I'm thinking it might be:
1. Didn't get the knuckle up on the strut high enough
2. Axel is not good or not seated fully
3. I messed up alignment
4. Gremlins

I understand the physics behind torque steer and not much is documented with AWD (most say it's not a thing with AWD). Since the length of the axel from where it inserts the differential to the wheel hub is the same length that shouldn't be an issue.

Ideas before I bring it in?

[rothwem]

I'd put my money on the alignment.

[Farroar]

Guess that's the only thought out there. Going to get that checked.

[feuer]

Nothing is adjustable down there for you to mess up the alignment. Is possible that the axles vary a lot in weight thus the torque steer.

[Farroar]

So you're saying that if I perhaps replaced the axel on the other side with one from the same mfg then that could mitigate this? I'd be surprised that the weight would be that different. They looked very similar.

I did remove the control arm during the process. You're saying that wouldn't affect alignment? Which parts would? I'm completely ignorant on the specifics of alignment.

[juld0zer]

What is the reasoning for replacing each item?

Did the front drive shaft break?

[feuer]

On the bottom only toe in/out is adjustable and you had no reason to mess with the outer tie rod. On the top only camber is adjustable if the centering pin is removed that again you had no reason to mess with. It could be from weight. Happens often with aftermarket parts. I have experienced this on FWD. Aftermarket part was lot heavier and car was pulling. Went back to OEM.

Is possible that you have over tighten the bearing with the axle nut?

[HawkeyeGeoff]

If one axle is longer than the other it'll have more elasticity. You could get the slingshot / "torque steer" effect....but I doubt that on an awd car.

+1 on alignment.

[Farroar]

Not sure on the axel nut. Don't have a torque wrench that can hit the numbers mentioned in the Bentley. Had to go based off of how far the spindle came through the hub. Matched on other side. Yeah, not the best method at all but I didn't have much choice. I could loosen it up and give it another drive I suppose.

[feuer]

To be honest, I don't have the exact numbers either. What I usually do is get the hut tight and then back off about 1/4 turn

[juld0zer]

Which driveshaft did you replace and why?
And why was the CV shaft replaced?

Only asking because on X5/X6 if the front driveshaft snapped and the car has been driven with the broken shaft (assuming it didnt smash a hole in the engine or transmission), you have to recalibrate the transfer case. It is a service function available in the dealer's ISTA/D software. I'm not familiar with AWD E9x models as we didn't get them here but I'm yet to see an AWD E84 snap a front shaft. Both chassis share a similar transfer case design so i figure it might apply to your car

[Farroar]

Front passenger side full axel replaced. The inner CV was completely fubar. Not sure how the hell that happened but it was pretty sudden. Taking left turns, the right side would clank. When I took it out and disassembled it was obvious that it was shot. The guts were all over the place. Only one ring was still fully functional, the other two were cracked and busted.

Replaced the shaft because, why not? Suppose it could have been repaired but I figured might at well just replace the whole thing. It's got 118k on it already.

[Farroar]

I do have the software for the car. Mostly in German unfortunately but I'm assuming that I could check in there. it's got just about everything under the sun built into it.

[juld0zer]

What software do you have? INPA?

You might have to reach out to someone who works at a dealer to find out what BMW expects you to do after replacing the axle. If the axle didn't snap and the propellor shaft didn't snap then there might not be anything that needs to be reset