[07tundra]

Adjusted the rear turbo rod did 2 turns and now I have zero boost? iTunes the rod toward the shock is that the correct direction? Car feel like an NA car, all vacuum hoses have changed out. I don't have any codes I'm stumped ?

I did forget to put both nuts or bolts on the boost solenoids because I was anxious to see if the rattle had gone away do they require both to be grounded out or something is the only explanation I can up with. Because if I had over tightened I would think I would over boost or maybe turnips the rod towards the shock is wrong and wastegate is open and can't close?

[RSL]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

Adjusted the rear turbo rod did 2 turns and now I have zero boost? iTunes the rod toward the shock is that the correct direction? Car feel like an NA car, all vacuum hoses have changed out. I don't have any codes I'm stumped ?

I did forget to put both nuts or bolts on the boost solenoids because I was anxious to see if the rattle had gone away do they require both to be grounded out or something is the only explanation I can up with. Because if I had over tightened I would think I would over boost or maybe turnips the rod towards the shock is wrong and wastegate is open and can't close?

I don't know what "towards the shock means". If you turned it clockwise towards the front of the car, it would set the flapper in a more closed position at default and would tend to build more boost/use less WGDC. If that's the case on the turn direction and you have 0 or little boost, something else is amiss. Vacuum lines/canisters are leaking or electrical connections to the solenoids aren't good. If you replaced all the vacuum lines, I'd start there.

I'm pretty sure the solenoid mounting points are just that, they aren't ground.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Tundra;

I read that you changed out all vacuum lines. It's easy to mix up the locations of some on the solenoids -first thing I'd do is double check all that and that your solenoids are plugged in.

Best,
Chris

[07tundra]

Originally Posted by RSL

I don't know what "towards the shock means". If you turned it clockwise towards the front of the car, it would set the flapper in a more closed position at default and would tend to build more boost/use less WGDC. If that's the case on the turn direction and you have 0 or little boost, something else is amiss. Vacuum lines/canisters are leaking or electrical connections to the solenoids aren't good. If you replaced all the vacuum lines, I'd start there.

I'm pretty sure the solenoid mounting points are just that, they aren't ground.

Ok on the turning of the rod I went counterclockwise about 2 full turns, It was weird when this occurred because its affecting both turbos car is slow as shit. Could the boost solenoids have taken a crap at the same time?

I did get a CEL but I took it to autozone and nothing came up as being wrong. I only took it there because I'm in Cali right now and don't have anything with me.

[07tundra]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

Tundra;

I read that you changed out all vacuum lines. It's easy to mix up the locations of some on the solenoids -first thing I'd do is double check all that and that your solenoids are plugged in.

Best,
Chris

Thanks Chris I will double check everything I do have a pic from realoem that shows the location of these vacuum lines. I was going to also replace both solenoids while I'm at it. I've heard of the clamp on the downpipes interfering with wastgate operation also could that be a possible cause?

[RSL]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

Ok on the turning of the rod I went counterclockwise about 2 full turns, It was weird when this occurred because its affecting both turbos car is slow as shit. Could the boost solenoids have taken a crap at the same time?

I did get a CEL but I took it to autozone and nothing came up as being wrong. I only took it there because I'm in Cali right now and don't have anything with me.

If it's counter-clockwise from the front of the car, that would push the flapper open more = more WGDC or possibly far enough out not to seat fully. If one is working and one it not, may just not be enough air flow to register boost. I've never tried it and no time to do the math, but if one is less CFM then the motor can ingest, you won't register boost (intake tract pressure) because the motor is using it all.

The hoses might be in the right places, but doesn't mean there isn't a leak at a connection though. I'd definitely give them all a thorough once-over. DP clamp interfere would keep the WG(s) from opening = overboost condition if anything.

[07tundra]

Yes definitely counter clockwise about 4 turns but there really half turns, so it really sounds as if I have a leak some where. I'm going to replace both solenoids should I replace canisters too? Just error on the safe side? And check all my lines

[RSL]

Check the canisters for sure since they're easy. If they're going to crack, would probably be around the barbs, especially since you just redid the lines. You opened the flapper up, so it's also possible that it's just too far out to seat fully now, but vacuum/lines are probably easiest to start with.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

Thanks Chris I will double check everything I do have a pic from realoem that shows the location of these vacuum lines. I was going to also replace both solenoids while I'm at it. I've heard of the clamp on the downpipes interfering with wastgate operation also could that be a possible cause?

Yep, check the clamp for sure!

[feuer]

07tundra you are correct. Turning the shaft counter clock wise will make the rod shorter and close the gap on the flapper. I would check for movement. Is possible the pivot arm to be stuck or the diaphragm to leak.

[07tundra]

Originally Posted by feuer

07tundra you are correct. Turning the shaft counter clock wise will make the rod shorter and close the gap on the flapper. I would check for movement. Is possible the pivot arm to be stuck or the diaphragm to leak.

Not according to one of the members here and answered in this thread? Now I'm confused

[RSL]

Maybe he thought it was counter clockwise facing the firewall?

[07tundra]

Originally Posted by RSL

Maybe he thought it was counter clockwise facing the firewall?

Well if you're looking at it from the top of the engine aren't you facing the firewall? and would that then be counter clockwise? I will have both DPs off tomorrow I guess I will have to see which way it loosens and tightens. I also bought a mighyvac pump so now I can apply vacuum @5.9 then adjust it.

[RSL]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

Well if you're looking at it from the top of the engine aren't you facing the firewall? and would that then be counter clockwise? I will have both DPs off tomorrow I guess I will have to see which way it loosens and tightens. I also bought a mighyvac pump so now I can apply vacuum @5.9 then adjust it.

I'm a lefty so doubtful we're facing the same way looking at it from the top or not

Originally Posted by RSL

I don't know what "towards the shock means". If you turned it clockwise towards the front of the car, it would set the flapper in a more closed position...

I tried to make sure we were on the same page, but missed it I guess So, yes, if you turned counter-clockwise facing the firewall (same as clockwise towards the front), it would be more closed and we're all on the same page now.

[07tundra]

Originally Posted by RSL

I'm a lefty so doubtful we're facing the same way looking at it from the top or not

I tried to make sure we were on the same page, but missed it I guess So, yes, if you turned counter-clockwise facing the firewall (same as clockwise towards the front), it would be more closed and we're all on the same page now.

Yes! so then in all reality I probably closed it too much then but still doesnt explain why it feels so damn slow

[feuer]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

Not according to one of the members here and answered in this thread? Now I'm confused

I understood you correctly. You said counter clock wise toward the shock. That made it very clear to me. You have done it right. Either something is stuck or is disconnected. You need a helper to check for movements.

[07tundra]

Originally Posted by feuer

I understood you correctly. You said counter clock wise toward the shock. That made it very clear to me. You have done it right. Either something is stuck or is disconnected. You need a helper to check for movements.

And you are correct sir! my dp clamp was not just blocking the arm movement of the wg it was pinched and the wg was stuck open! I fixed everything and applied the 5.9 of vacuum and all rattle is gone and so is the lag.

Thanks to everyone who responded it was great help!

[RSL]

That's certainly easier than digging for a vacuum leak

[07tundra]

[QUOTE=RSL;22084371]That's certainly easier than digging for a vacuum leak

It most certainly is!