Inside rear shock tower

Koolsilver · 08-17-2017, 10:56 PM

So I stupidly dropped a small tool down into my rear shock tower while installing the new shock for my coilovers on my e90. I for the life of me can't figure out how I can get inside that area to get the tool out. Any suggestions?

Speed_Addict · 08-18-2017, 02:06 AM

Been there, done that - at least on an E92. In my case it was shock tower mounting hardware from Dinan. Anyway, at least on the E92 (and I only have experience with the left side), there is a small rubber body plug at the rear of the wheel well you can get to after you remove the wheel well liner. If you have that plug on your E90 as well, you may be able to pop that out and get a finger in there or fish around in there with a piece of coat hanger to locate your missing tool. If the tool is too big to get through the body plug hole but maybe has a closed loop on it someplace you can maybe do what I did and fish a coat hanger up through the body plug hole to the opening in the strut tower in the trunk and tie a string on the end sticking out the body plug hole in the wheel well. Then, maybe, you can thread the string through an opening in the tool somehow to secure it and then pull it up / out with the hanger through the trunk. If the item is steel, you may be able to put a magnet on your hanger wire. In my case the part was aluminum so I tied a washer on one end of the string, fished it through the center hole of the part then tied the string to the hanger and pull the whole mess up and out through the shock tower opening in the trunk. After that funness I stuff rags in the openings to those cavities below the shock tower to block them off when working back there.

Koolsilver · 08-18-2017, 06:54 AM

Thanks for the detailed description I'll give that a shot definitely sounds like I'm in for a fun time with this one. I dropped a crows foot tool so I'm guessing it will be too big for that hole so let the fun begin.

feuer · 08-18-2017, 08:14 AM

Flexible worm magnet pick up tool. https://www.amazon.com/V8-Tools-3826.../dp/B002YKNOLQ

BB_cuda · 08-18-2017, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by feuer

Flexible worm magnet pick up tool. https://www.amazon.com/V8-Tools-3826.../dp/B002YKNOLQ

This. Certain things are worth always having in your garage for keeping your sanity. This is one of them. Another is the small telescopic mirror tool to see around corners, etc.

Hope you were able to fish it out.

feuer · 08-18-2017, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

This. Certain things are worth always having in your garage for keeping your sanity. This is one of them. Another is the small telescopic mirror tool to see around corners, etc.

Hope you were able to fish it out.

I use the mirror for every VCG I do since is impossible to see if gasket is sitted properly!

Koolsilver · 08-20-2017, 02:02 AM

I finally got the part out. For anyone that's in this problem heres pictures where to get it out from.

Speed_Addict · 08-20-2017, 04:59 AM

Good to hear you got it out!

BB_cuda · 08-20-2017, 07:51 AM

Koolsilver, I'm very familiar with your suspension choice. I see ground control right rear spring and shock on M3 lower camber arm. Glad the fishing worked for you.

Koolsilver · 08-21-2017, 01:19 AM

Haha yeah thanks, and thanks for the advice definitely helped.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Koolsilver, I'm very familiar with your suspension choice. I see ground control right rear spring and shock on M3 lower camber arm. Glad the fishing worked for you.

Good eye you got there. I actually performed a full m3 rear end swap with subframe, LSD, etc. I also put in front spindles and all front control arms while I was at it to complete the package. I like to think I now got the 1M's big brother the 3M lol? Too bad I'll get sued for that name

Now to find and get rid of that annoying crack/pop from turning at low speeds.

Manual Transmission · 08-21-2017, 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koolsilver

Haha yeah thanks, and thanks for the advice definitely helped.

Good eye you got there. I actually performed a full m3 rear end swap with subframe, LSD, etc. I also put in front spindles and all front control arms while I was at it to complete the package. I like to think I now got the 1M's big brother the 3M lol? Too bad I'll get sued for that name

Now to find and get rid of that annoying crack/pop from turning at low speeds.

I would look into the strut mounts. I had a creaking/popping when turning at low speed caused by bad strut mounts. The car was also lowered which I suspect may place additional stress on the strut mounts. You can inspect them from the top with the hood open so if you see any cracked rubber you should know what your problem is.

simon · 08-21-2017, 07:54 AM

Best way to address this, in my opinion, is jut not care.

Simon

BB_cuda · 08-21-2017, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koolsilver

Haha yeah thanks, and thanks for the advice definitely helped.

Good eye you got there. I actually performed a full m3 rear end swap with subframe, LSD, etc. I also put in front spindles and all front control arms while I was at it to complete the package. I like to think I now got the 1M's big brother the 3M lol? Too bad I'll get sued for that name

Now to find and get rid of that annoying crack/pop from turning at low speeds.

I didn't go quite that far. I still have the OEM 335D spindles on front. But all of the rear is changed over. I still use the factory rear subframe though with adjustable toe links. I think i see M3 rear toe links in your photo. Did you swap the sub frame in rear too?

I had a friend call my car a "D3" this last weekend? I have a Wavetrac LSD though. Factory M3 LSD won't work for me as i need the 2.81 ratio.

Koolsilver · 08-21-2017, 07:08 PM

My strut mounts are brand new ground control camber plates but anyways I re tightened my steering rack and it seems all gone now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I didn't go quite that far. I still have the OEM 335D spindles on front. But all of the rear is changed over. I still use the factory rear subframe though with adjustable toe links. I think i see M3 rear toe links in your photo. Did you swap the sub frame in rear too?

I had a friend call my car a "D3" this last weekend? I have a Wavetrac LSD though. Factory M3 LSD won't work for me as i need the 2.81 ratio.

Yeah subframe swapped over, all control arms, differential with LSD, axels, spindles, brakes, drive shaft. Then up front spindle, brakes, control arms. Then ground control m3 coilovers all around with their adjustable endlinks front and rear. Side note terrible design by BMW for how the rear endlinks are mounted on the m3 you have to either remove rear axels or cut the bolt to remove them.

feuer · 08-22-2017, 09:34 AM

To me non M subframe is better since diff lockdown is much cheaper, simple and smaller part to install.

BB_cuda · 08-22-2017, 04:08 PM

Feuer, my lockdown kit as well as using a uhaul hitch that has a forward bar connecting to bottom of sub frame were both reasons for sticking with my 335D sub frame. My lock down kit uses the boomerang shaped plate for the 215 type diff.

08-17-2017, 10:56 PM	#1
Koolsilver Private First Class 65 Rep 175 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sacramento iTrader: (2)	Inside rear shock tower So I stupidly dropped a small tool down into my rear shock tower while installing the new shock for my coilovers on my e90. I for the life of me can't figure out how I can get inside that area to get the tool out. Any suggestions?
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08-18-2017, 02:06 AM	#2
Speed_Addict Second Lieutenant 34 Rep 210 Posts Drives: Crimson Red 335i Coupe Join Date: May 2008 Location: Northwest iTrader: (1)	Been there, done that - at least on an E92. In my case it was shock tower mounting hardware from Dinan. Anyway, at least on the E92 (and I only have experience with the left side), there is a small rubber body plug at the rear of the wheel well you can get to after you remove the wheel well liner. If you have that plug on your E90 as well, you may be able to pop that out and get a finger in there or fish around in there with a piece of coat hanger to locate your missing tool. If the tool is too big to get through the body plug hole but maybe has a closed loop on it someplace you can maybe do what I did and fish a coat hanger up through the body plug hole to the opening in the strut tower in the trunk and tie a string on the end sticking out the body plug hole in the wheel well. Then, maybe, you can thread the string through an opening in the tool somehow to secure it and then pull it up / out with the hanger through the trunk. If the item is steel, you may be able to put a magnet on your hanger wire. In my case the part was aluminum so I tied a washer on one end of the string, fished it through the center hole of the part then tied the string to the hanger and pull the whole mess up and out through the shock tower opening in the trunk. After that funness I stuff rags in the openings to those cavities below the shock tower to block them off when working back there.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-18-2017, 06:54 AM	#3
Koolsilver Private First Class 65 Rep 175 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sacramento iTrader: (2)	Thanks for the detailed description I'll give that a shot definitely sounds like I'm in for a fun time with this one. I dropped a crows foot tool so I'm guessing it will be too big for that hole so let the fun begin.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-18-2017, 08:14 AM	#4
feuer Major General 4276 Rep 9,206 Posts Drives: wife crazy! Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Chicago, IL iTrader: (5)	Flexible worm magnet pick up tool. https://www.amazon.com/V8-Tools-3826.../dp/B002YKNOLQ
	Appreciate 1 Quote

08-20-2017, 02:02 AM	#7
Koolsilver Private First Class 65 Rep 175 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sacramento iTrader: (2)	I finally got the part out. For anyone that's in this problem heres pictures where to get it out from.
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08-20-2017, 04:59 AM	#8
Speed_Addict Second Lieutenant 34 Rep 210 Posts Drives: Crimson Red 335i Coupe Join Date: May 2008 Location: Northwest iTrader: (1)	Good to hear you got it out!
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08-20-2017, 07:51 AM	#9
BB_cuda Brigadier General 765 Rep 3,557 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Msport, 2013 X5D Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Clear Lake, Texas iTrader: (0)	Koolsilver, I'm very familiar with your suspension choice. I see ground control right rear spring and shock on M3 lower camber arm. Glad the fishing worked for you.
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08-21-2017, 07:54 AM	#12
simon Second Lieutenant 65 Rep 222 Posts Drives: E92 Montego Blue 328i Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (1)	Best way to address this, in my opinion, is jut not care. Simon
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08-22-2017, 09:34 AM	#15
feuer Major General 4276 Rep 9,206 Posts Drives: wife crazy! Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Chicago, IL iTrader: (5)	To me non M subframe is better since diff lockdown is much cheaper, simple and smaller part to install.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-22-2017, 04:08 PM	#16
BB_cuda Brigadier General 765 Rep 3,557 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Msport, 2013 X5D Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Clear Lake, Texas iTrader: (0)	Feuer, my lockdown kit as well as using a uhaul hitch that has a forward bar connecting to bottom of sub frame were both reasons for sticking with my 335D sub frame. My lock down kit uses the boomerang shaped plate for the 215 type diff.
	Appreciate 0 Quote