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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Boost Solenoid or something else?



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      09-01-2017, 03:37 PM   #1
DukerHD
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Boost Solenoid or something else?

So I've been getting a 30FF code for a few weeks now. I'm running BMS DCI, ARM Chargepipe w/ Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, MHD Stage 1+ tune, and a few other small things.

I've been considering purchasing new boost solenoids to see if the 30FF code goes away, but I'm not even sure if that's the problem. My car seems to build boost fine but it can't hold it past about 80mph and goes into limp mode. I fixed my air leaks and the 30FF is still there. I need to get walnut blasting done too but I don't think that would have anything to do with low boost codes. I also read that the wastegate actuators could be tightened but would that cause low boost codes or just rattle?

Should I order new boost solenoids and just expect the 30FF to be fixed?

Any suggestions would help as well... I can provide logs etc if needed using MHD, just let me know what kind. Thanks

Last edited by DukerHD; 09-01-2017 at 03:44 PM..
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      09-01-2017, 03:51 PM   #2
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Are you using tbolt clamps for FMIC?
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      09-01-2017, 03:55 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by blisstik View Post
Are you using tbolt clamps for FMIC?
No, the ARM FMIC uses the stock C-clips on the stock connections.
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      09-01-2017, 11:32 PM   #4
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Carefully check your vacuum lines. I bought some cheap used solenoids on eBay and they fixed my 30FF.
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      09-02-2017, 01:34 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by EndOfAnEra View Post
Carefully check your vacuum lines. I bought some cheap used solenoids on eBay and they fixed my 30FF.
I've replaced all of my vacuum lines with Verocious Motorsports vaccum hose. Used solenoids would do the trick?
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      06-26-2018, 02:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DukerHD View Post
So I've been getting a 30FF code for a few weeks now. I'm running BMS DCI, ARM Chargepipe w/ Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, MHD Stage 1+ tune, and a few other small things.

I've been considering purchasing new boost solenoids to see if the 30FF code goes away, but I'm not even sure if that's the problem. My car seems to build boost fine but it can't hold it past about 80mph and goes into limp mode. I fixed my air leaks and the 30FF is still there. I need to get walnut blasting done too but I don't think that would have anything to do with low boost codes. I also read that the wastegate actuators could be tightened but would that cause low boost codes or just rattle?

Should I order new boost solenoids and just expect the 30FF to be fixed?

Any suggestions would help as well... I can provide logs etc if needed using MHD, just let me know what kind. Thanks
I have the exact same symptoms as you! Did you ever find out what was causing it?
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      06-26-2018, 09:10 PM   #7
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I too have gotten the 30ff on my vehicle. Car is essentially running on one turbo. After replacing both of my boost solenoids, I still had the issue. Using a vacuum tester I pulled vacuum to both turbos, front turbo waste gate actuator was good but the rear wasn't budging. In order to see why the waste gate was so stiff I pulled the actuator arm off. Careful the little c-clip that secures the waste gate flange to the actuator is easily lost.
When installing the c-clip back in I recommend attaching some fishing line to the clip, you will drop it and having it attached to some line will save you some hassle.

After disassembling the actuator arm I was able to freely move the waste gate by hand. It was stiff and hard to move, I suspect the rod that connects the flange and actual waste gate together is worn causing it to stick. Maybe it got to hot and the metal warped?

In an attempt to get by I used PB Blaster(wd-40) to lube it up. Sure enough the waste gate started moving easily. Drove home and my car was boosting so good that the charge pipe blew up. Two weeks go by and I now have a new ER charge pipe installed.

Due to the high temps. on the turbos the lubricant just burns off and I am back to square one. It is not practical to lube it every commute so I decided to use antiseize as a lubricant. Its a nickel based goop that handles heat quite well. When it heats up it appears to turn to a powdery like substance. Lubricates in a similar fashion as graphite does on axles. I worked it into the waste gate flange really good, its not a flowing liquid so you got to work at it so it gets in there some what deep.

Its been one week since initial application and its working. Turbos have been boosting again no problem. I put a dab of antiseize to the waste gate flange every couple of days hoping it seeps in there. The proper fix is replacement of turbos and I am no opposed top it but if I can get another 10k miles out of these stockers, I will. Let me know if you have any questions.
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      06-26-2018, 11:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DukerHD View Post
I've replaced all of my vacuum lines with Verocious Motorsports vaccum hose. Used solenoids would do the trick?
Did you use 3.5mm or 4mm silicone for the vacuum lines?
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      06-28-2018, 03:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oggeZ View Post
I have the exact same symptoms as you! Did you ever find out what was causing it?
Yes, it was my solenoids. I ordered low-mileage ones off of a friend on a Facebook group and voila, it held boost again. Since then, I've rebuilt the turbos with RB CHRAs and car is running great. However, the wastegates are rattling now too... N54 provides a lot of fun but requires much in return.

Quote:
Originally Posted by =C= View Post
Did you use 3.5mm or 4mm silicone for the vacuum lines?
I used 3.5mm from Verocious Motorsports. Wonderful product! I actually purchased more and used it when I rebuilt my turbos about 3 months ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by m3atloaf View Post
Its been one week since initial application and its working. Turbos have been boosting again no problem. I put a dab of antiseize to the waste gate flange every couple of days hoping it seeps in there. The proper fix is replacement of turbos and I am no opposed top it but if I can get another 10k miles out of these stockers, I will. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for this m3atloaf! Hopefully this is helpful for anyone else who needs it as well. Car has been through a lot since this thread was started. It is now full bolt on with AR Catted DPs, MMP inlets, BMS DCI, ARM FMIC, ARM CP, Tial BOV (w/ an upgraded 6mm vacuum line), and an RB PCV valve. The car is tuned with MHD and has the xHP Stage 3 TCU flash. I also recently rebuilt the turbos about 3 months ago but am getting the dreaded wastegate rattle. It seems like I will need to purchase some upgraded turbos altogether soon so I can stop dealing with these stockers.
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