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Bright ideas on forgetting to replace oil drain plug gasket?
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09-27-2017, 05:05 AM | #1 |
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Bright ideas on forgetting to replace oil drain plug gasket?
After changing my oil this past Sunday, I saw it: the oil drain plug gasket sitting in the oil pan. I figured I'd see how it goes -- maybe it is just like a washer you don't really need.
Well, of course it isn't just like a washer, and I'm dribbling out oil. I would guess my options are limited to the potentially very messy one of unscrewing the plug and putting the gasket on while oil pours out, or the expensive one of changing the oil all over again. Any thoughts or words of wisdom on the best route here?
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2013 335is E93 6MT | LeMans Blue/Saddle Brown
BQ Tuning MHD E60 flash | Cobb catted DPs | ETS 5" FMIC | BMS DCI | Fuel-It Stage 2 LPFP | MMP inlets/outlets | Forge DVs | N20 TMAP sensor Vibrant 1790 resonators/mid-cat delete | MPI CP | Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW | Wavetrac LSD | M3 rear subframe and diff bushings Last edited by JasW; 09-27-2017 at 05:13 AM.. |
09-27-2017, 05:28 AM | #2 |
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Drain oil into clean container.
Replace Gasket. Funnel same oil back into engine same way as you would normally fill it. Drink Beer. |
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09-27-2017, 05:42 AM | #3 |
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Didn't we just go through this already?
Here's an idea (a new one I just thought of). It'll be a bit messy. If you don't just want to drain the oil into a clean oil drain, close-able, container. Get some plumbers faucet valve packing. faucet packing is basically white Teflon string. Unscrew the drain plug just a few turns, wrap a few inches of packing string (get the smallest diameter you can find) around the threads underneath the bolt head, and screw the drain bolt back in. I think that would seal it until the next oil change. Unscrewing the drain bolt just few turns will not let much oil out. Have the packing string at the ready. Do it quickly and there will not be much of a mess. Any decent hardware store carries packing string in the plumbing section. Wisdom? Well, maybe if you buy an OEM (MANN) or OE oil filter , which comes with a new copper drain seal (the the correct o-rings for the oil filter cap), you'll see the new copper drain washer in the plastic bag with the o-rings, and install the washer on the drain bolt before you reinstall it in the oil pan...
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 09-27-2017 at 05:58 AM.. |
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09-27-2017, 05:43 AM | #4 |
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What he said ^.
Just buy a new drain container so you can pour it back in. Even a big foil turkey pan from the grocery store would work, just make sure you wipe out whatever you use first, so you don’t add dust and stuff to the oil. |
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09-27-2017, 05:52 AM | #5 | |
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OP just make sure to wipe down any dirt around the opening in the bottom engine cover, both on the outside and inside. It works best if the car is level on 4 jackstands (i.e. not ramps)
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 09-27-2017 at 05:57 AM.. |
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09-27-2017, 05:59 AM | #6 |
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Thanks all. Not sure why it didn't occur to me to just buy a new drain container. Also not sure I'd want to go the aluminum foil pan route, haha. Or even the $3 cheapo Walmart 7 qt. pan route -- that would be filled to the brim. The 16 qt. container I use was ~$10 on Amazon, but unfortunately they don't carry it anymore and I want to get it taken care of pronto in any event, so I'll have to get the 10 qt. version from the local AutoZone for $12.
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2013 335is E93 6MT | LeMans Blue/Saddle Brown
BQ Tuning MHD E60 flash | Cobb catted DPs | ETS 5" FMIC | BMS DCI | Fuel-It Stage 2 LPFP | MMP inlets/outlets | Forge DVs | N20 TMAP sensor Vibrant 1790 resonators/mid-cat delete | MPI CP | Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW | Wavetrac LSD | M3 rear subframe and diff bushings |
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09-27-2017, 06:04 AM | #7 | |
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2013 335is E93 6MT | LeMans Blue/Saddle Brown
BQ Tuning MHD E60 flash | Cobb catted DPs | ETS 5" FMIC | BMS DCI | Fuel-It Stage 2 LPFP | MMP inlets/outlets | Forge DVs | N20 TMAP sensor Vibrant 1790 resonators/mid-cat delete | MPI CP | Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW | Wavetrac LSD | M3 rear subframe and diff bushings |
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09-27-2017, 07:56 AM | #8 |
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Is the engine oil for your car that expensive you getting tips how to reuse oil.
I can understand if its a very old E46 but you have a 2013 335i that deserve better oil.. just my 2 cent |
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09-27-2017, 08:55 AM | #9 |
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Not sure what you're getting at, but I always use Liqui Moly. And all things being equal, I'd certainly pay $62 for another 7 liters of the stuff if draining and refilling what I just put in a few days ago poses any risk to the engine. Only it wouldn't get to me until probably next Monday, and I'm not sure there is any risk if I ensure nothing gets into the "old" oil between the drain and the container.
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2013 335is E93 6MT | LeMans Blue/Saddle Brown
BQ Tuning MHD E60 flash | Cobb catted DPs | ETS 5" FMIC | BMS DCI | Fuel-It Stage 2 LPFP | MMP inlets/outlets | Forge DVs | N20 TMAP sensor Vibrant 1790 resonators/mid-cat delete | MPI CP | Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW | Wavetrac LSD | M3 rear subframe and diff bushings |
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09-27-2017, 10:07 AM | #11 |
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Re-pouring slightly used oil back in the engine is common practice. I've done it twice on my engine. It's got 332K on it now. Agreed, it's not a blood transfusion. Just keep the oil from contamination.
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09-27-2017, 10:09 AM | #12 |
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If the oil drains in the catch pan without touching the belly pan, then good enough. I've never used ramps and the 335i pan I'm not familiar with, so I don't know how it drains out.
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09-27-2017, 10:13 AM | #13 |
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Speaking of oil drain plugs I just ordered one from ECS $10 part# ES#251839. It's magnetic and suppose to trap metal particles in my oil, will see how it works. Regarding your problem I would do it the right way (drain/refill)
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09-27-2017, 01:00 PM | #14 | |
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To that point, the teflon/plumbers tape is a great idea for a cheap temporary solution that'll last until the next oil change. +1! |
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09-27-2017, 01:22 PM | #15 |
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Such a long thread for such a simple fix. Unscrew the drain plug slow, pushing it inward towards the end of the threads. You'll notice once you start reaching the end. Hold it with your fingers and turn the last bit. Plug the hole with your other finger, install the new washer. Reinstall. The most that'll drain is half quart tops. I do it all the time, and just now for fun.
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09-27-2017, 05:46 PM | #16 |
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Buy another drain plug. Undo the old one. Really quickly pull out the old one and swap over the new plug with your other hand. Refill engine with lost oil.
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09-27-2017, 06:13 PM | #18 | |
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I prefer the kind that looks like this Still have to deal with a moving oil stream, but I've had better luck. Right now I use the large open kind with the neck for pouring, except its hard to clean when you're done and want to put it away. Need to buy one like the one in the link now that I've moved away from home. |
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09-27-2017, 06:32 PM | #19 | |
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09-27-2017, 06:34 PM | #20 | |
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09-28-2017, 09:39 AM | #21 | |
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09-28-2017, 09:45 AM | #22 |
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