[fortythirtyfive]

So my Zimmermann discs have completely arrived now in full.. and I'll be sorting them this weekend.

I'm tempted just to fit them myself seen as I did the pads easy enough, am I right in thinking it's just the two bolts behind the calliper and then it'll slide off the disc? (435i m sport blue callipers)

Does anybody know the torque amount too for any bolts that I'll have to be loosening?

Thanks!

[FaRKle!]

Yeah it's really easy. Just take off the calipers (two mounting bolts behind each one), and remove the single screw holding the rotor to the hub.

Brake rotor mounting screws: 16Nm
Front caliper mounting screws: 110Nm
Rear caliper mounting screws: 30Nm + 90deg

[Bestodabest]

Coat the hub flange in anti-sieze and wipe off/rinse any preservative coating on the rotor friction surface. If your current rotors are worn or if you're swapping pads, you'll likely need to press in the caliper's pistons.

[fortythirtyfive]

Thanks guys.

I have a load of copper slip from a while ago so I'll use that.

You say to rinse off the preservative coating.. is this the anti-corrosion stuff that the disc has been coated in? I just assumed that it would wear off within the first couple of rotations?

As for the pads I'm planning on just sanding them flat, the fronts were only changed a few months backand the rears have around 5mm left

[jdr78569]

Originally Posted by producerlawson

Thanks guys.

I have a load of copper slip from a while ago so I'll use that.

You say to rinse off the preservative coating.. is this the anti-corrosion stuff that the disc has been coated in? I just assumed that it would wear off within the first couple of rotations?

As for the pads I'm planning on just sanding them flat, the fronts were only changed a few months backand the rears have around 5mm left

I know 5mm can go some time especially for rear pads but why not just change then now and not have to double work? Manual says to replace pads at 2mm left. +1 on use anti-seize.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by jdr78569

I know 5mm can go some time especially for rear pads but why not just change then now and not have to double work? Manual says to replace pads at 2mm left. +1 on use anti-seize.

M sport brake pads are super easy to change (don't have to take the caliper off like the floating calipers).

[jdr78569]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

M sport brake pads are super easy to change (don't have to take the caliper off like the floating calipers).

True and I agree. I was just saying eventually you'll have to do it soon. Why not safe another work trip. Especially if you have them off already. Why go get more brake grease and do it all over again.

[Bestodabest]

Originally Posted by producerlawson

Thanks guys.

I have a load of copper slip from a while ago so I'll use that.

You say to rinse off the preservative coating.. is this the anti-corrosion stuff that the disc has been coated in? I just assumed that it would wear off within the first couple of rotations?

As for the pads I'm planning on just sanding them flat, the fronts were only changed a few months backand the rears have around 5mm left

The pads will scrub it off, but its just good practice to give em a quick rinse with brake clean. Certain manufacturer's really cake it on.

[Orion4]

I recommend that you, at least, clean the new rotors by spraying them (both sides) with Brake cleaner (Brakeleen) to remove any oil or grease residue.

[fortythirtyfive]

Does anyone have any advice on removing those two bolts out of the calliper rears? I could only fit a small ratchet into the rear tyre well and couldn't budge any of them.. in fact I ended up head butting the car and trapping my fingers in a load of metal.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by producerlawson

Does anyone have any advice on removing those two bolts out of the calliper rears? I could only fit a small ratchet into the rear tyre well and couldn't budge any of them.. in fact I ended up head butting the car and trapping my fingers in a load of metal.

Have you tried using long sockets/extensions to get more reach?

If you don't have enough handle to get leverage you can use a floor jack to lift the handle up and apply torque. For the opposite direction you might be able to use a 2x4, stick it under the car, and push down on it to get more leverage. I did that on another car once.