[nkdipod]

Hi,

This morning it was very cold, my car started normally but as soon as I came to a stop for the first time after driving for a few minutes
I got a check engine light and both the brake and traction control lights lit up orange. I couldn't get the car to go over 20MPH so I pulled
over and used the Carly app to run a diagnostic scan. The results are in a PDF attached. To me it looks like the throttle actuator was not working
correctly, but I just wanted to ask here to make sure before I order the part. I did notice I also have a code for the water pump which worries me
a bit since I have 110K miles and it is the original pump. I've never had any symptoms of over-heating but I'd like an opinion on this too.

Thanks, I appreciate any replies

[E90wannabe]

Originally Posted by nkdipod

Hi,

This morning it was very cold, my car started normally but as soon as I came to a stop for the first time after driving for a few minutes
I got a check engine light and both the brake and traction control lights lit up orange. I couldn't get the car to go over 20MPH so I pulled
over and used the Carly app to run a diagnostic scan. The results are in a PDF attached. To me it looks like the throttle actuator was not working
correctly, but I just wanted to ask here to make sure before I order the part. I did notice I also have a code for the water pump which worries me
a bit since I have 110K miles and it is the original pump. I've never had any symptoms of over-heating but I'd like an opinion on this too.

Thanks, I appreciate any replies

With that many miles, It seems to be the pump. ECM will not actuate the throttle because it cannot control engine temp. Limp mode. Most pumps only last about 60 to 70K miles.

[nkdipod]

Originally Posted by E90wannabe

With that many miles, It seems to be the pump. ECM will not actuate the throttle because it cannot control engine temp. Limp mode. Most pumps only last about 60 to 70K miles.

Not sure if it matters but I've never gotten a warning message for overheating even when this was happening. You're still thinking pump even with that in mind?

[E90wannabe]

The ECM will not let it overheat. The point of the pump communicating with the ECM is to shut down the engine to avoid overheating. ECM programming working as designed. If you have the diag software, you could actuate the water pump and listen for it to run. I have a strong opinion about a faulty water pump. Throttle bodies rarely fail. The throttle body is just the result of the water pump failure.
Before I buy $500 worth of parts, I would try to see if the water pump is working via the scan tool diag.

Do you have scan tool software available?

[nkdipod]

Originally Posted by E90wannabe

The ECM will not let it overheat. The point of the pump communicating with the ECM is to shut down the engine to avoid overheating. ECM programming working as designed. If you have the diag software, you could actuate the water pump and listen for it to run. I have a strong opinion about a faulty water pump. Throttle bodies rarely fail. The throttle body is just the result of the water pump failure.
Before I buy $500 worth of parts, I would try to see if the water pump is working via the scan tool diag.

Do you have scan tool software available?

All I have is the Carly application for my phone and their dongle. I'm not sure if that has the ability to run the water pump manually, probably not but I'll do some research.

[E90wannabe]

This applies to all electric water pumps. You could use this procedure to see if the pump runs. If not, then the pump is faulty.

Only when venting!
Note:
Do not open the coolant expansion tank cap during the venting
procedure.
1. Connect battery charger.
2. Switch on ignition.
3. Set heater to maximum temperature and turn fan down to
lowest speed.
4. Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine
must not be started.
5. The venting procedure is started when the accelerator pedal is
pressed and takes approx. 12 minutes.(Electric coolant pump
was activated and shuts down automatically after approx.
12 minutes).
6. Then top up fill level in coolant expansion tank with 100 ml
above max (see illustration).
7. Check cooling system for leaks.
8. If venting has to be carried out again (e.g. if cooling system is
leaking), allow DME to fall completely (leave ignition key
removed for approx. 3 minutes), then repeat from Point 3.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by E90wannabe

This applies to all electric water pumps. You could use this procedure to see if the pump runs. If not, then the pump is faulty.

Only when venting!
Note:
Do not open the coolant expansion tank cap during the venting
procedure.
1. Connect battery charger.
2. Switch on ignition.
3. Set heater to maximum temperature and turn fan down to
lowest speed.
4. Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine
must not be started.
5. The venting procedure is started when the accelerator pedal is
pressed and takes approx. 12 minutes.(Electric coolant pump
was activated and shuts down automatically after approx.
12 minutes).
6. Then top up fill level in coolant expansion tank with 100 ml
above max (see illustration).
7. Check cooling system for leaks.
8. If venting has to be carried out again (e.g. if cooling system is
leaking), allow DME to fall completely (leave ignition key
removed for approx. 3 minutes), then repeat from Point 3.

Of course you could do this old school.

Start the engine , turn on the heater. If it never blows hot air you have a problem with the cooling system. Probably the water pump.

I use INPA, quicker and more accurate way to diagnose problems.

Usually if the DME has detected a problem with the pump or cooling system, it will command the radiator fan to run at full speed. Very noisy and easy to identify.

[E90wannabe]

Originally Posted by nkdipod

All I have is the Carly application for my phone and their dongle. I'm not sure if that has the ability to run the water pump manually, probably not but I'll do some research.

I am not sure. Hard to diagnose this sitting in my recliner.

It's always good to try some simple diagnosis first. Some type of scan tool diagnostics is invaluable. I found everything for free on line except for the OBD/USB connector. My two cents.

The water pump communication fault is a good indicator though.

[nkdipod]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Of course you could do this old school.

Start the engine , turn on the heater. If it never blows hot air you have a problem with the cooling system. Probably the water pump.

I use INPA, quicker and more accurate way to diagnose problems.

Usually if the DME has detected a problem with the pump or cooling system, it will command the radiator fan to run at full speed. Very noisy and easy to identify.

It's really odd because I had no issues with the heat yesterday either. It was working fine even when the car was in limp mode. No excessive fan noise also. If I was to buy an INPA cable can you point me to how I would get more info with it?

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by nkdipod

It's really odd because I had no issues with the heat yesterday either. It was working fine even when the car was in limp mode. No excessive fan noise also. If I was to buy an INPA cable can you point me to how I would get more info with it?

You could try downloading the software from sites like Bimmer geeks.net for starters.

Once you have the software installed correctly there are a number of tools within the MSV80 section that will guide you. INPA is primitive but if works.