[illmike619]

Every single time I start my car first thing in the morning or after a couple of hours of sitting, the radiator fan will go crazy. After start up, I will let it warm up, and about a minute after the RPM drops the radiator fan will start running at full speed. Climate control is off. Keep in mind I have no overheating indicators on dash. I will shut off the car, and it will do the same thing as shortly after the RPM drops after a minute or two. Then third or fourth time after restarting the car, car runs great and no crazy running fan or overheating. I have searched the forum and I have found threads about either the water pump or ac pressure switch. May I have some insight on what I should do?

[nuron]

time for a new water pump

[illmike619]

You think so? Even if the car is not overheating? I've been doing this for about almost two months now and no overheating.

[tlow98]

Have you scanned for codes? Which ones have come up?

This is often what happens when the water pump is done for.

[EB89]

Water pump, the car won’t just over heat for no reason, I drove around for like 2 weeks with a dead pump (I didn’t know at the time)

Fan was going metal, and it over heated twice because I was driving hard.

Read codes, you will see it’s the pump

[robthewrench]

Use a BMW specific code reader to read the codes. A shadow water pump code will indicate you have a failing waterpump even though no check engine light is present or an overheat condition has not happened yet.

[illmike619]

Thank you all for the input. I went ahead and got ordered a new thermostat and water pump. I think it is about time for a change, 2006 with 74k. I will let you guys know the outcome.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by illmike619

Thank you all for the input. I went ahead and got ordered a new thermostat and water pump. I think it is about time for a change, 2006 with 74k. I will let you guys know the outcome.

you think?

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by illmike619

Thank you all for the input. I went ahead and got ordered a new thermostat and water pump. I think it is about time for a change, 2006 with 74k. I will let you guys know the outcome.

Getting a code reader is the smart money with these cars. They’re easy to diagnose, thus saving you money by making sure you buys and install the right parts the first time.

[ChuckThomas]

Water pump doesn't have to throw a code, some times it will throw the code right when it dies and goes into limp mode. The radiator coming on full blast is most definitely a sign of a "dying or dead" water pump. In your case, your pump is not dead yet but it is dying, so more than likely the revolution are getting much slower. Your fan kicks on because it senses a weak water pump. When your water pump dies, your car will fake overheat instantly to protect it from any damage. Hang it up until your new pump arrives or you will be calling a tow truck soon.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by ChuckThomas

Water pump doesn't have to throw a code, some times it will throw the code right when it dies and goes into limp mode. The radiator coming on full blast is most definitely a sign of a "dying or dead" water pump. In your case, your pump is not dead yet but it is dying, so more than likely the revolution are getting much slower. Your fan kicks on because it senses a weak water pump. When your water pump dies, your car will fake overheat instantly to protect it from any damage. Hang it up until your new pump arrives or you will be calling a tow truck soon.

What’s a fake overheat?

You project confidence well.

[madskillzE90]

Typical water pump and thermostat time....
Hopefully you have a non AWD model.
Trust me it is no fun.....

[ChuckThomas]

Originally Posted by tlow98

What’s a fake overheat?

You project confidence well.

Fake overheat, as in you start your car from COLD start. Proceed to get on the highway, get a YELLOW temperature light, followed by a RED temperature light, along with LIMP MODE. You then get out to touch the hood of your car...stone cold. You pop the hood to feel the vanity cover....stone cold..


Do you need any more explanation, I can continue?

[ChuckThomas]

And since you want to cheerlead about CODES tlow you could have been more helpful and posted them 2e81 2e82 2e83 2e84 2e85

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by ChuckThomas

Fake overheat, as in you start your car from COLD start. Proceed to get on the highway, get a YELLOW temperature light, followed by a RED temperature light, along with LIMP MODE. You then get out to touch the hood of your car...stone cold. You pop the hood to feel the vanity cover....stone cold..


Do you need any more explanation, I can continue?

You're def going to need to continue.

How on earth did you train your hand to tell the difference between 200 degrees F and 250+? Either temperature would burn me so fast I'd have no way to tell which was hotter. What are you doing farting around on the forums when that gifted hand of yours could be used for honest science work?

You could be working on cancer (the hot kind?), or SpaceX or I don't even know... I'm just impressed. Don't let that talent go to waste!

Weirdly, this fake overheat process you described (yellow, red, limp) sounds just like an actual, real overheat... Should we just continue to drive when this happens? We should all know the truth at this point. It's important.

Originally Posted by ChuckThomas

And since you want to cheerlead about CODES tlow you could have been more helpful and posted them 2e81 2e82 2e83 2e84 2e85

I'm definitely a cheerleader for codes. They tell you a lot.

I also like to google them, which is something we have in common. This combined with your magical hands makes me think we should be friends.

illmike619 - fwiw, it most likely is your water pump, but I'd still advocate a cheap code reader. Depending on how long you own the car it could save you a lot of time, frustration, and money. Don't mind ChickThomas and me. We like to flirt

[ChuckThomas]

Originally Posted by tlow98

You're def going to need to continue.

How on earth did you train your hand to tell the difference between 200 degrees F and 250+? Either temperature would burn me so fast I'd have no way to tell which was hotter. What are you doing farting around on the forums when that gifted hand of yours could be used for honest science work?

You could be working on cancer (the hot kind?), or SpaceX or I don't even know... I'm just impressed. Don't let that talent go to waste!

Weirdly, this fake overheat process you described (yellow, red, limp) sounds just like an actual, real overheat... Should we just continue to drive when this happens? We should all know the truth at this point. It's important.

I'm definitely a cheerleader for codes. They tell you a lot.

I also like to google them, which is something we have in common. This combined with your magical hands makes me think we should be friends.

illmike619 - fwiw, it most likely is your water pump, but I'd still advocate a cheap code reader. Depending on how long you own the car it could save you a lot of time, frustration, and money. Don't mind ChickThomas and me. We like to flirt

Unlike him, I don't advocate a cheap code reader. I have a schwabean scanner that I check the coolant temperature with, a long with my hand. And yes, you can drive it when it's in limp mode very easily for short distance, without damaging it. Its definitely a fail safe mechanism when your water pump dies. If you READ the post I said from cold start. The engine was not hot at all and did not even reach full operating temperature yet. HOW WOULD IT OVERHEAT BEFORE OPERATING TEMPERATURE? Oh and check this, I limped it all the way home NO blown head or anything just 3 water pump codes. I'm sorry man just because you have been on this forum since the 80s don't mean you know everything my friend. And i don't google codes I have a Bentley manual on MacBook, phone, and paper format. The water pump codes have been discussed for ages and it's not hard to remember 5 extremely similar 4letter "words".

I'm not flirting with you I don't even acknowledge you. It's literally always you or somebody similar coming way out of left field to talk some shit. I now see why you were butthurt. You told him to scan codes and I told him it doesn't always throw codes. Did I step on your toes? I'm sorry but you have qualities of a female, especially since you're telling other guys that you flirt with other guys. You should change your name to dlow69. We have nothing in common.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by ChuckThomas

Unlike him, I don't advocate a cheap code reader. I have a schwabean scanner that I check the coolant temperature with, a long with my hand. And yes, you can drive it when it's in limp mode very easily for short distance, without damaging it. Its definitely a fail safe mechanism when your water pump dies. If you READ the post I said from cold start. The engine was not hot at all and did not even reach full operating temperature yet. HOW WOULD IT OVERHEAT BEFORE OPERATING TEMPERATURE? Oh and check this, I limped it all the way home NO blown head or anything just 3 water pump codes. I'm sorry man just because you have been on this forum since the 80s don't mean you know everything my friend. And i don't google codes I have a Bentley manual on MacBook, phone, and paper format. The water pump codes have been discussed for ages and it's not hard to remember 5 extremely similar 4letter "words".

I'm not flirting with you I don't even acknowledge you. It's literally always you or somebody similar coming way out of left field to talk some shit. I now see why you were butthurt. You told him to scan codes and I told him it doesn't always throw codes. Did I step on your toes? I'm sorry but you have qualities of a female, especially since you're telling other guys that you flirt with other guys. You should change your name to dlow69. We have nothing in common.

Well, I'm glad you cleared that stuff up.

As usual, there are no holes in your arguments, so I guess I'll just close my account and wander off into obscurity.

3 Bentley manuals, ladies, and gentlemen. Three.

No one has ever conquered e90post so quickly, except my new friend, ChuckThomas

[Meeni]

My car did that for some months before the water pump finally puked on me. Don't wait and get bmw specific codes scanned.

If the pump does not flow water, it will overheat in the cylinder jackets well before anything else gets hot. What ChuckThomas describes is not fake overheat, its a new head gasket calling (or even a new head, if you get a high enough temperature differential between the cold and hot parts of the head).

[ChuckThomas]

Whenever I said fake over heat I was referring to failsafe. When the pump dies the engine automatically "overheats" instantly.

[EB89]

Originally Posted by ChuckThomas

Whenever I said fake over heat I was referring to failsafe. When the pump dies the engine automatically "overheats" instantly.

Is that true though....

[ChuckThomas]

Originally Posted by EB89

Is that true though....

Is it not?? The MOMENT your pump dies, your car goes into limp mode regardless of engine temperature. Are you saying that is NOT a failsafe? Also you're saying that it's overheated when it hasn't even reached operation temperature.

A few questions, what shop do you work in and how many failed water pump cases have you diagnosed and handled? How many times were you looking at or monitoring the oil and coolant temperature when the pump died?? How many times were you monitoring the revolutions when the pump died? Also, what are your qualifications and where is your research to disagree with me other than 200 likes on a forum? I need FACTS from you.

[EB89]

Originally Posted by ChuckThomas

Is it not?? The MOMENT your pump dies, your car goes into limp mode regardless of engine temperature. Are you saying that is NOT a failsafe? Also you're saying that it's overheated when it hasn't even reached operation temperature.

A few questions, what shop do you work in and how many failed water pump cases have you diagnosed and handled? How many times were you looking at or monitoring the oil and coolant temperature when the pump died?? How many times were you monitoring the revolutions when the pump died? Also, what are your qualifications and where is your research to disagree with me other than 200 likes on a forum? I need FACTS from you.

I have no qualifications, it was an honest question to you because I want to know, just talking from my own experience.

My car didn't go into limp mode or show a check engine light, but when I scanned for codes I got a very specific, "water pump disabled" message...

It went into limp mode twice in 2 weeks because I drove aggressively, otherwise the pump wasn't working and the car ran normally, other than the fan going mental.