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      06-01-2008, 06:55 PM   #1
beatloafer
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Question Removing Golf Tee (ball bearing) mod ??

I did the golf tee mod and for the most part I love it, but I tried to go back to stock and had a hard time doing this. I put water down the rubber hose and tried to work the ball bearing out with my hands, but couldn't do it. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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      06-01-2008, 07:01 PM   #2
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Here is what I did when used to remove the barring;

Heat up the lines, use some sort of "lubricant" (to name a few). Just put some in the line, and massage the barring out while the lines are hot. It might take a quite a few attempts to achieve the desired result. Jokes aside and gl.
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      06-01-2008, 07:44 PM   #3
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seriously you guys are doing it all wrong.

just get a piece of hose 1/8" and one of those male to male barbed adapters

full it up with glue (the adapter hole)

let it dry

plug in your snippet (very short) bit of hose to the wastegate so it doesnt rust out get water inside
and plug in the adapter/nipple to the stock hose

push the stock hose back a little so it doesn't touch the pipe.

takes about 5 seconds to install and 2 seconds to uninstall.

ballbearing in a stock hose

not very creative.

i'm sure theres someone who put too small of one thats got a ball bearing sucked up into a check valve or vacuum pump somewhere out there lol
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      06-01-2008, 07:52 PM   #4
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why don't you just use a magnet?
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      06-01-2008, 09:07 PM   #5
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There's no way a magnet would work... if it was snug going in, it's a devil to get out. I tried to remove mine during the winter before the car went in for an alarm install, but it wouldn't budge. It will definitely need lubricant and something to push it out.
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      06-01-2008, 09:18 PM   #6
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the best solution to the golf tee mod is aftermarket exhaust.
if you are foolin with the flap, like I was, just get a cat back exhaust system
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      06-01-2008, 10:04 PM   #7
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Just cut the hose where the ball bearin is,you'd have plenty hose left to reach the nipple.I've already cut it twice and it still reached easily..
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      06-01-2008, 10:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V1.47fan View Post
Just cut the hose where the ball bearin is,you'd have plenty hose left to reach the nipple.I've already cut it twice and it still reached easily..
+1
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      06-01-2008, 10:16 PM   #9
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What the heck did you guys do?
Maybe I don't understand the golf tee mod, but I seriously oinly thought it was disconnecting the rubber hose and plugging it up with a golf tee.

What the heck are you guys talking about? Ball bearings and stuff?
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      06-01-2008, 10:25 PM   #10
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Much easier to unplug the servo control unit behind the brake light. Golf tee also makes sense, bal bearing? extreme
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      06-01-2008, 10:54 PM   #11
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well
i donno but this is how i did it
it's easy to get rid of
all you do is cut the zip tie

just cut it
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      06-01-2008, 11:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarrDlux View Post
seriously you guys are doing it all wrong.

just get a piece of hose 1/8" and one of those male to male barbed adapters

full it up with glue (the adapter hole)

let it dry

plug in your snippet (very short) bit of hose to the wastegate so it doesnt rust out get water inside
and plug in the adapter/nipple to the stock hose

push the stock hose back a little so it doesn't touch the pipe.

takes about 5 seconds to install and 2 seconds to uninstall.

ballbearing in a stock hose

not very creative.

i'm sure theres someone who put too small of one thats got a ball bearing sucked up into a check valve or vacuum pump somewhere out there lol
Using glue is not a good idea. It is permanent and will not take the heat and will be sucked up in no time. The correct size ball bearing work great as it simulates a proper SAE tube bead (perfect seal) as I suggested in post well over a year ago now. The forces on the ball are normal to the spear so it can’t move which makes it more than creative and technically ideal. It will not rust as the valve heats up and vapour permeates through the rubber fairly quickly. The heated air in front of the valve, caused by the exhaust heating up, puts a preload on the valve and prevents rattling so it is superior to the golf tee method which always rattles. In the morning, the lower ambient temperature create 1 PSI vacuum which change to a positive 3 PSI after 3 minutes so the valve closes 20% then it is open fully in 30 second and preloads shortly after.

As a mechanical engineer I used this method during engine development to quickly disabling parts of system during testing. It works extremely well in this application and some thought went into this as the golf tee caused the valve to rattle. If you haven’t figured it out yet I’m the on who made original post about using a ball bearing for the exhaust valve so your comments are some what insulting and very poorly thought out.

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      06-01-2008, 11:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
Much easier to unplug the servo control unit behind the brake light. Golf tee also makes sense, bal bearing? extreme
It causes non critical CEL that does get logged. If you chose a sloppy method of mechanical terminate like a golf tee then you may lose 15 hp due to leaks and it will. All this can be found with a search. The zip tie will work well in this thread also but only as shown.

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Last edited by Orb; 06-01-2008 at 11:35 PM..
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      06-02-2008, 12:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLuVan View Post
well
i donno but this is how i did it
it's easy to get rid of
all you do is cut the zip tie

just cut it

If this is GOLF TEE MOD......then what the heck is that shit you Unplug from the trunk????? i just unplugged it like 2months ago and just left it hanging there....i havn't had any problems and yes the exhaust sounds louder? is taht just to open up the other exhaust tip, cause i've noticed when i had that plugged only one tip was smoky but when i unplugged it smoke comes out of both and sounds a little bit louder. just a tad bit..but good enuff for me. FOR NOW.
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      06-02-2008, 02:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NRG View Post
Here is what I did when used to remove the barring;

Heat up the lines, use some sort of "lubricant" (to name a few). Just put some in the line, and massage the barring out while the lines are hot. It might take a quite a few attempts to achieve the desired result. Jokes aside and gl.
I just did this and it worked. The hardest part is massaging the hose... it takes quite of bit of force and it's taxing on your finger tips. I used some pliers and it was just a matter of time. Thanks for help.
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      06-02-2008, 03:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BES335xi View Post
If this is GOLF TEE MOD......then what the heck is that shit you Unplug from the trunk????? i just unplugged it like 2months ago and just left it hanging there....i havn't had any problems and yes the exhaust sounds louder? is taht just to open up the other exhaust tip, cause i've noticed when i had that plugged only one tip was smoky but when i unplugged it smoke comes out of both and sounds a little bit louder. just a tad bit..but good enuff for me. FOR NOW.
It's the same thing. The unplugging method is to electronically disable it..however it stores a code, that's the only downfall.

If you do it the physical way, there is no code stored.

You should've just put a screw in there to plug up the hole. And when you want to get it out, just use a screw driver to turn it to the left as if you were really unscrewing it from a solid surface. It works.
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      06-02-2008, 03:30 AM   #17
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lube? male to male connectors? what the hell? i thought we were talking about golf tee mods.
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      06-02-2008, 07:04 AM   #18
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okay check valve then.
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      06-02-2008, 09:07 AM   #19
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since the ball bearing is only a half inch into the hose, screw everything else and just cut off the hose right after the ball bearing...There is enough slack to recconnect baCK to the muffler without even noticing that its been cut...simple and easy!!
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      06-02-2008, 10:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn555ic View Post
since the ball bearing is only a half inch into the hose, screw everything else and just cut off the hose right after the ball bearing...There is enough slack to recconnect baCK to the muffler without even noticing that its been cut...simple and easy!!
+1 and you get a tighter fit by not reusing the strecthed out area of the hose.
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      06-02-2008, 11:32 AM   #21
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before I installed my exhaust (which has no flap by the way), I unplugged the electric plug that opened the flap and have been in for service twice since. Neither time did they plug it in or tell me they found a code.
it's no big deal really...
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      06-02-2008, 05:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orb View Post
It causes non critical CEL that does get logged. If you chose a sloppy method of mechanical terminate like a golf tee then you may lose 15 hp due to leaks and it will. All this can be found with a search. The zip tie will work well in this thread also but only as shown.

Orb
Who cares about the logging. Just plug it back in before you go to the dealership. Act like you dont know what the hell they are talking about.

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