[Ristau]

Hello,

I'd like to preface this by saying that I plan to do a bunch of diagnostics sometime later this week, but that I would like to potentially get some outside input first. I have tried running the car on Map 1,2 and 5 on the JB4 and none of them seem to make the car any less bad.

Today my friend and I installed my VRSF down pipe on my 2013 335i. It sounds great, but my friend thought that there might be an exhaust leak (still not sure on this and i'm gonna try to test for this later this week). The real problem I'm having, which I can't seem to find anyone else having, is that my car has a Severe lack of torque on acceleration, and occasionally even does this weird thing where it wants to accelerate but the RPMs don't change and it feels like it it's trying to accelerate (I don't really know how to explain what's going on at all. I think it might be some sort of fuel cutoff but the RPMs that it happens are are completely arbitrary. This is a completely different feeling from just holding RPMs. This is definitely not limp mode.). I only drove it about an hour and a half to get home from where I was, and it runs perfectly fine under low load/cruising. I really don't think the car is running too rich or too lean though, because I still managed to get 32 highway MPG (which is 100% normal for the stretch of highway I drove).

The potential issues that I'm assuming could be the problem are:
-Exhaust leak between the turbo and the down pipe
-Damaged O2 Sensor (I saw that this was possible, but I don't really think I'm experiencing most of the symptoms).
-Some sort of boost/vacuum leak (we took the C clamp off the charge pipe because we were going to install a new CP as well, but we put it back on) from the line to the charge pipe (8AT cars).

Lastly, there was what I think was a vacuum line that basically on top of the O2 sensors plugs (wrapped in a metallic-type material. I would take pictures but it's cold outside and also midnight lol. I can't seem to find any pictures of the exact part i'm looking for either) that may have become compromised when removing the O2 sensors (not sure on this one either).

I'm hoping that I can disable my JB4 and get my codes checked at an autoparts store or something, but if anyone has ANY information or ANY suggestions that would be incredible.

Thanks

[bmwchue]

So on map 0 is it normal or the same issues?

[jgoens]

This sounds like a boost leak. I would check the charge pipe. A small exhaust leak will not change how the car runs..it will make a sound. I have had my charge pipe come loose and basically the car will feel much less power, the rpms will rise but the power is not there.

[Ristau]

I have not run on map 0, but I will try.

I was almost certain it was a boost leak too, but my friend said he didn't think so. I'm gonna check vacuum lines and the charge pipe ASAP. Thanks!

[Marlinman]

boost leak. Did you pull any codes using the JB4 "read" function?

[ceedawg]

DP wont make you lose power makes no sense. A boost leak certainly will.

[Ristau]

I have not read any codes. Hope to do that during my lunch break today.

Im almost positive I heard a boost leak when I popped the hood this morning. The three most likely culprits are the vacuum line from the charge pipe to the intake (my friend said he broke part of the ******toebgut he thought the line itself was completely fine), the charge pipe to the throttle body

Or this line by the O2 sensor connections

(Blue is the hole line, red is where it may be loose).

Thanks for everyone’s help

[jgoens]

If the connector for, I'm guessing your referring to the TMAP on the CP broke, there would be a chance that it is not sealing right. But what your describing sounds like the end at throttle body has a gap.

[Ristau]

It’s not the TMAP connector. It’s the connector that’s for the vacuum line on the chargepipe on cars with automatic transmissions.

From the ER chargepipe installation guide (for reference):
AUTOMATIC CARS ONLY: Disconnect the vacuum line attached to the charge pipe – There is a black vacuum line going into the middle of the charge pipe. To disconnect it, you need to squeeze tabs on the side of the connector and then carefully pull it out. THE TABS ON THE CONNECTOR ARE A BIT FRAGILE SO CAREFULLY SQUEEZE IT WHEN PULLING IT OUT. Manual transmission cars do not have this connector.

[torkles]

so your friend broke a connection on the charge pipe and then was able to convince you that your problem wasn't related to that? get a new friend to help you with your car lol.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by ceedawg

DP wont make you lose power makes no sense. A boost leak certainly will.

+1

Mike

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

If you broke something on the charge pipe then that would explain a boost leak.. I would double check that area 100%.

Mike

[Ristau]

That’s the plan but I don’t really know how. Basically it seemed like only the physical clip broke but I definitely could be wrong.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Ristau

That’s the plan but I don’t really know how. Basically it seemed like only the physical clip broke but I definitely could be wrong.

Just do a copse inspection to see if anything doesn't look right. Check throttle body connection to make sure its not cracked. Thats the most common failure point on the charge pipe.

Mike

[Ristau]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

Just do a copse inspection to see if anything doesn't look right. Check throttle body connection to make sure its not cracked. Thats the most common failure point on the charge pipe.

Mike

Doesn't look like it. Charge pipe failed in january 2017 so I definitely know what that looks like. I think I'm gonna test for leaks with some MAF cleaner or something. Still need to get codes checked out but im busy with work and stuff.

[Marlinman]

post a pic too if you want we can try to help

[mike@x-ph.com]

Sounds like a boost leak

[Ristau]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Sounds like a boost leak

That's what I'm worried about I just bought my charge pipe and down pipe from you guys (didn't install charge pipe due to time constraints), and I have been so excited. lol

Interesting new development though: Last night I thought I fixed everything, but then I had more issues this morning (on Map 2 it felt slower than what I was used to on Map 1 and more weirdness with power delivery), so I switched to Map 4 (I forgot which one was stock and which was datalogging. I wanted to switch to Map 0, but close enough) and everything literally felt perfect (like stock at least). I'm gonna try driving around on Map1 after work (was on 5 last night and also a shit show), try to get some pictures before it's dark and hopefully check my codes.

Cheers

[Marlinman]

Do you have the Bluetooth kit? If you are switching maps with your phone, you should already be able to pull codes just as easily.

[Ristau]

Originally Posted by Marlinman

Do you have the Bluetooth kit? If you are switching maps with your phone, you should already be able to pull codes just as easily.

Switching with BC button on steering wheel

Maybe investing in the Bluetooth kit is worth it

Edit: okay holy crap I didn’t realize just how useful the Bluetooth adapter was and now I feel like a moron for not getting it originally.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Ristau

Switching with BC button on steering wheel

Maybe investing in the Bluetooth kit is worth it

Edit: okay holy crap I didn’t realize just how useful the Bluetooth adapter was and now I feel like a moron for not getting it originally.

Ya the BT adapter is an awesome addition the JB4!

Mike

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Ristau

Switching with BC button on steering wheel

Maybe investing in the Bluetooth kit is worth it

You should definitely get one